Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello. I have rust on the portion of my rocker spindles that are visible from the side of the rocker boxes. The carburetor to head manifold stubs are also very rusted. I would prefer just to have the spindles re plated as a new set is over $100. I would not mind replacing the manifold stubs but they seem to be a hard to find item, especially pre-drilled for the balance pipe.

Can anyone advise what plating should be on the parts below and if possible pass on info on any shops doing plating?

I have a 78 T140E and live in central Pennsylvania.

71-3549 - rocker spindles
71-7048 carb to head manifold stud
71-3550 rocker oil feed pipe

Thank you,

Jordan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,589 Posts
all those items would be zinc plated - my only concern would be with the rocker arm spindles - you only need the visible end plated
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,252 Posts
Clean off the rocker spindle ends,then,just wipe a smear of oil on.I expect oil will get out of the spindles anyway.Plating,as Wol suggests,would be difficult to do just on the end faces.Often, a corroded part on the engine looks good if just painted with wheel silver out of a spray can.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I decided to put together a home zinc plating kit and picked up some of the clear/blue chromate finish. Now to figure out how to get the carb to head manifold stubs (71-7048) out without buggering them up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,842 Posts
I decided to put together a home zinc plating kit and picked up some of the clear/blue chromate finish. Now to figure out how to get the carb to head manifold stubs (71-7048) out without buggering them up.
Double nut the stud, use lots of propane heat on the head and use a wrench on the inside nut to remove the stud. PB Blaster or such will help a day in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,589 Posts
I set up my own home zinc plating -- so its east to plate just the ends of shafts by suspending them and dipping just the end in the solution - time consuming and frustration at times but rewarding too
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
6,663 Posts
Hi,

how to get the carb to head manifold stubs (71-7048) out without buggering them up.
Probably the most expensive is something like this:-



... the black piece in the centre screws on to the exposed stud thread (1/4"UNF?), then you tighten the collet so it squeezes the jaws on to the stud thread so unscrewing the extractor unscrews the stud from the head with the extractor jaws locked on the other end of the stud; installation is the reverse of removal. No damage to either stud thread. :thumb

Next cheaper is probably something like this:-



... thread one of the holes over the stud; as you turn the socket, the knurled wheel grips the stud until it unscrews (from the head in your case). Possible marks on the stud from the knurling; not good if on a thread. :(

Very/relatively cheap depending how well you know someone with a lathe in their garage - ask them to make a stud extractor for you from a ~1" length of hex. bar drilled and tapped down the middle with the same thread s the stud (1/4"UNF?). Screw that on to the stud thread to about 1/2" (i.e. about half the length of the extractor), screw a bolt of the same thread into the other end of the extractor 'til it hits the end of the stud; holding the extractor with a wrench, tighten the bolt on to the stud; with a bit of luck, unscrew the stud by turning the extractor. :thumb Worst case, if the stud's really tight in the head, and the extractor keeps unscrewing from the stud, after tightening the bolt on to the stud again, hold the bolt tight against the stud with one wrench while you turn the extractor with another wrench to unscrew the stud from the head.

Very cheap - similar to the last suggestion but, instead of the extractor from a ~1" length of hex. bar, use two nuts of the same thread as the stud, screw 'em both on the exposed end of the stud, tighten one against the other then attempt to unscrew the stud by turning the nut closest to the head. Again if the nuts just unscrew without turning the stud, hold the nut nearest the end of the stud with one wrench while attempting to unscrew the stud by turning the other nut.

Worst case, use a pair of vise grips but you will mark the stud somewhere between slightly and completely-buggered, and it might be completely-buggered and still stuck in the head. :gah

Hth.

Regards,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Double nut the stud, use lots of propane heat on the head and use a wrench on the inside nut to remove the stud. PB Blaster or such will help a day in advance.
I think the stub I have on my bike is different than the one you are thinking of. Below is a picture of my head, you can see the stubs do not have any bolts connecting them. The stubs I have seem to just thread into the head. I attached another photo of the stubs themselves, you can see internal slots that look like they are for removing and installing this piece. I have looked all over online and can not seem to find the suitable workshop tool for this removal/installation.



Yes, that is the exact thread I used to put together a kit. I should have everything i ordered in the next week or two.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,842 Posts
I think the stub I have on my bike is different than the one you are thinking of. Below is a picture of my head, you can see the stubs do not have any bolts connecting them. The stubs I have seem to just thread into the head. I attached another photo of the stubs themselves, you can see internal slots that look like they are for removing and installing this piece. I have looked all over online and can not seem to find the suitable workshop tool for this removal/installation.





Yes, that is the exact thread I used to put together a kit. I should have everything i ordered in the next week or two.
I thought you had misspelled the word "stud", so, never mind.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top