[pidjones]

Mufflers on and done-up. My headers have a 1.5" adapter welded on to each, ending ~1" before the end of the smaller pipe. So, I had ordered 1.5" inlet mufflers, which just butt-up to the pipes. So, had to spin a couple adapters out of aluminum and the used 1.5" clamps to tighten it all together (along with the exhaust springs and loops that came with the muffler). All ready to add oil and fire up to see how it really sounds. If it EVER stops raining.

 

[pidjones]

Started it up this morning (well, after moving the timing a LOT to get it to start). This is with cheap-o mufflers so that the engine can be heard over the exhaust. Sounded pretty good to me at first, but after it warmed up a bit stared to hear what sounded to me like piston slap. Ignition is probably WAY out of time. Had to actually knock the points cam loose and rotate it clockwise (retard?) maybe 20 degrees to get it to start. Don't know how I got it that far off static timing. At the end, besides moving the idle too low, I think it also ran out of gas. Nice to see it starting to bake the paint on the headers, but it is also leaking badly from rocker box/head joint in the middle and from the head/cylinder joint on left side.

 

[StuartMac]

Hi,

Had to actually knock the points cam loose and rotate it clockwise (retard?) maybe 20 degrees to get it to start. Don't know how I got it that far off static timing.

Does the alternator rotor have "A" and "B" marks? Did you use the "A" marks? If yes, possibly the crank is later than the cases, the timing needs the "B" marks?

The other thing that's easy to do on triple is time on the exhaust stroke ... allegedly

Hth.

Regards,

 

[pidjones]

No, it is late enough (model) that I timed it on B.

 

[StuartMac]

Hi,

late enough (model) that I timed it on B.

A or B depends only on the crank. Cranks are interchangeable from the first T150/A75 to the last T160:-

. crank with one long timing-side keyway, A marks;

. crank with two short keyways, B marks.

Hth.

Regards,

 

[pidjones]

Wondering if anyone has a comment on how the engine sounds?

 

[StuartMac]

Hi,

engine sounds?

Initially, about right for a triple - like two skeletons bonking in a dustbin ...

After about 0:57, each time you rev it, there's an additional flat "rort" - mufflers? Or something else?

Also, towards the end of the vid., when you let the revs. fall to idle, sounds different from idle at the beginning ... one cylinder not always firing? Might be just the position of the microphone ... or ime warm triple engine'll idle quite happily on two ...

Hth.

Regards,

 

[pidjones]

Hi,

Initially, about right for a triple - like two skeletons bonking in a dustbin ...

After about 0:57, each time you rev it, there's an additional flat "rort" - mufflers? Or something else?

Also, towards the end of the vid., when you let the revs. fall to idle, sounds different from idle at the beginning ... one cylinder not always firing? Might be just the position of the microphone ... or ime warm triple engine'll idle quite happily on two ...

Hth.

Regards,

Thanks. That's two that have commented on a cylinder dropping near the end. I believe it was running out of fuel.

 

[GrandPaulZ]

Wondering if anyone has a comment on how the engine sounds?

I ALWAYS comment, more or less along these lines:

I LOVE the mechanical Banshee howl of Triumph & BSA triples when they come up on the cams. Makes the hair on the back of my neck stand up just thinking about it! (REALLY, it's doing it right now as I type).

No better exhaust note on a stock bike. PERIOD.

 

[pidjones]

Ran her again today - with enough fuel this time! Timing was still so far off that I couldn't see the mark in the window. So, knocked the cam loose (a couple times) and got the mark in the window. But, it is the A mark! GG serial should have B, right? Anyway, it sounded MUCH better. Dripping oil everywhere, so plan to pull it down in-frame. Many fasteners need replacement. I like cooper gaskets fully annealed and maybe Hondabond (Threebond) coated, but first check all for flatness.

 

[StuartMac]

Hi,

Timing was still so far off that I couldn't see the mark in the window
got the mark in the window. But, it is the A mark! GG serial should have B

Uh-uh, the crankshaft needing the B mark wasn't introduced 'til January 1973 (T150 AH01603 and TRX75 XH01841 iirc); however, there are a number of Service Bulletins with misprinted date codes with the numbers, that then give the impression of an earlier introduction ...

Also, as I posted at #225, A or B depends entirely on the crank and the two cranks are interchangeable.

Dripping oil everywhere

Hth.

Regards,

 

[pidjones]

Already began stripping it down. Carbs and exhaust off. Need to pick up some rubber plugs tomorrow so the oil lines can be removed from the cooler and strapped out of the way.

 

[newsh]

Ran her again today - with enough fuel this time! Timing was still so far off that I couldn't see the mark in the window. So, knocked the cam loose (a couple times) and got the mark in the window. But, it is the A mark! GG serial should have B, right? Anyway, it sounded MUCH better. Dripping oil everywhere, so plan to pull it down in-frame. Many fasteners need replacement. I like cooper gaskets fully annealed and maybe Hondabond (Threebond) coated, but first check all for flatness.

Sounds really good now, loads better.

 

[pidjones]

First major issue discovered when the head came off - mangled dowel. Also, someone put chromed-head bolts on the rocker boxes, and sockets just barely fit on them.

 

[pidjones]

Mangled dowels out and cylinders off. Found several other issues detailed in my PO thread.

 

[pidjones]

Helicoil kit for one of the case to cylinder stud bolts ordered. As well as dowels, gaskets, nuts, etc. Mangled dowels removed but one hole will need filled with JB Weld to make up for smashed aluminum. Planning to clean, anneal, and reuse the .047" copper head gasket.

 

[pidjones]

Helicoil went in nice.

Getting ready to put the jugs back on. Decided to use the pull center piston method. While preparing for that, discovered the oil control ring on #1 frozen about 1/2 way around. Carefully removed the piston from the rod and used a small cut-off nail with pliers to push through one of the holes and get it loose. Took all rings off of it and cleaned them and the grooves, then reassembled. #2 came out cleanly and the big end bearing looks great.

Took so long getting this far that I called it a day. Tomorrow is church-related tasks. Maybe Wednesday?

 

[pidjones]

Spent another 3 hours gently coaxing the second compression ring from #3 piston. Jammed in tight with crud half-way around again. Cleaned ring and groove and reinstalled them all, second-checking #2 rings. Hondabond 4 on top of cylinder bottom gasket and silicone grease on the case in that area. Cylinders on over pistons now, just need to finish tightening the nuts and attach #2 rod to the crank.

 

[pidjones]

Slowly getting there. Head is only on with the four nuts finger-tight but the jugs are torqued. (Rocker boxes just setting there.)

 

[pidjones]

Only got the intake rocker box on today. Getting the PRTs in properly while also getting the push rods on the balls is tricky for me. Getting there, however.

Change that - got the other one on this evening! tomorrow we torque!