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pidjones '72 T150V project

14958 Views 300 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  pidjones
To start the thread. Bought and brought home yesterday. Compression 90 psi on each cylinder after just two kicks. Many things missing. Not my first rescue - I've done several GL1000 GoldWings, a CB750F, an RD400c, a little XR100R. Most were what I refer to as "fence row rescues". The kind you find forgotten in a fence row that you have to pull weeds out of. This bike appears to have been kept in the dry, at least in recent years. And, I've yet to find rodent evidence!

Already placed many items on my eBay watch list, but holding off on purchases until some more investigation is done. Wiring harness appears fairly complete except for many connectors stripped off of the ends. No controls on it.

I'll probably attack cleaning it up and rebuilding the carbs first as that has been my normal method. I have the pdf parts and service manuals.

I have a very nice T140 saddle that appears to be very close fit. Might get a pair of hinges and try to mount it.

Present plan is for a resto-mod. This is only my second Triumph, and the first was a '69 TR6C back in 1972 that was fully chopped (I should have been shot for that).

Photo is as it sat whem purchased.
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Thanks, Paul. I'll keep you in mind down the road. But it may be a long, rough road. Why do people let motorcycles set unprotected in the weather? And WHY DIDN'T I CHECK A BIT OF OIL DRAINED?
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Total oil from crankcase, primary, oil tank, and gearbox. The water and sludge were in the primary and crankcase.
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The cover cleaned up pretty well. The screen is soaking in kerosene.
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A look in the bottom isn't quite as scary as I feared.
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I figure the oil pump should come out, be inspected, and give me a lead as to where to go from here So, primary outer cover off:
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And I find that the goons glued it with orange RTV instead of using the proper gasket. And, they used the hammer and chisel wrench on the drive sprocket nut.
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BTW, I LOVE this impact wrench! Haven't found anything that it can't loosen yet.
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BUT! the goons also RTVed the inner primary cover on, which squished into the oil pump cavity and glued it in fast. So, I guess the inner primary cover comes off tomorrow. Enough fun for today!
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Please, if you see someone using RTV on a motorcycle crankcase - put them out of my misery! A loose blob from a PO lodged in the oil restrictor on the right head on my show GoldWing. Cost me a head and cam.
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I don't know - without oil starvation (the RTV cut off ALL oil flow to that head) GoldWings have been known to run 300K or more miles with normal oil change type maintenance. I had 123K on a GL1800 when I sold it and it still was running like new with only oil changes and valve shim change (once). This old GL1000 would not have needed me to visit ebay for a head if not for a PO squirting orange RTV on things (and I thought that I had picked it all out). Zero oil lead to seizing the center cam bearing on the right side, which snapped in half and the front cylinder kept firing. Down on power and 2 miles from home (no awkward noise) I turned around and made it back about 1/2 mile before the bike stopped due to running the carbs dry (fuel pump run off the back of the right cam). We were taught that we were never to use RTV in the Navy, and I've only used it on exhaust systems on motorcycles. I'll use Permatex #2 non-hardening (and very lightly) to dress the new gaskets (this one had only RTV - no gasket). I sometimes use Indian Head to tack gaskets in place as it comes off easily with a wipe of acetone. The oil pump came out - well, part of it. They had broken the cover-to-body screws of in the baseplate, so it is still stuck in the hole. I was still able to blow out all of the lines and I'm reassured that the water was only in the sump and primary cover - none through the rest of the system. All of the primary outer and inner cover surfaces have been cleaned and are ready for the gaskets that are on order. Sump cover is still off and I am still swabbing it with various rags, solvents, and tools to make sure it is dry and clean. I also ordered a pair of new oil filters. The bike doesn't yet have an oil cooler, so I don't have to worry about contamination of that, and the line to it has been blown dry.
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A couple photos. One of the cleaned up case awaiting inner primary cover and oil pump, the other of some of the RTV that was scrapped off the inner primary alone.
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Actually got the rest of the oil pump body out. Used screws through the clamping holes to jack it away from the bottom. Turns out it was glued to the gasket, and the gasket glued to the case with RTV. Fun to get out of the pump cavity, but I did finally get it all cleaned up. Cleaned and reassembled the pump and it turns smooth.
More cleaning and flushing. Pulled the anti-drain back valve out and flushed through it. Pulled both hoses off (they will be replaced) and flushed through their fittings. Pulled the filter cap and flushed through it. When I can get the engine out of the frame I'll pull the relief valve and flush through it.
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Decided this was definitely going to require engine out of the frame, even if not a full tear-down (not decided on that yet). So, today I pulled it onto a furniture dolly so I can roll it around the garage. Pretty dicey for an old man by myself, but it went Ok in the long run. Might be a different story going back in.
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BTW, is the drawing of engine removal in the Triumph shop manual (Fig B2) a joke?
No more work this week. Several other duties including a funeral Saturday and a photo shoot Sunday to attend to . Back at it next week. I have a tendency to skip around on tasks, keeping me from loosing interest but always moving forward. Considering a rebuild of the tach next. Doesn't seem to fully respond. I suspect something is stopping the movement and as usual aged, hardened grease can use a micro-drop of silicone to thin it out.
Pulled the oil pressure relief valve this morning. Encouraged that there was no water in it. Cleaned it up well and reassembled. No fiber washer for it in my gasket kit, but an aluminum of the correct size. Was this a replacement?
Timing side cover (plus points and advance mechanism.) off. The points wires are extremely stiff. Think I will replace them and of course the seal. Happily, no water in the timing gear area, only oil.
Actually was refering the the shaft seal. It looks good and there is no oil in the points compartment but this is the time to get it right.

This bike already has the three wires slipped through a sleeve. Yes, a molded three-lead cable would be best engineering practice. Several solutions may be available for it, including pre-made three-wire cable made for balanced audio. I've had experience sealing feed throughs for pressure and high vacuum. We even had problems with gas leaking through the individual leads requiring single-strand conductors (luckily available for high voltage in this case). In this situation, it seems that sealing both ends of a sheath with a bit of liquid electrical tape should do to seal the bundle. Might be the solution to seal the case passage also.

A long way from timing right now. Having timed the old GL1000s with dual points, lost spark, and a points cam driven by the left cam (which is belt-driven), that is still another challenge ahead.

Just more little tasks. Thanks for the added info!
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Took the covers off the rocker boxes today. RTV of course, but none made it inside.The one inch 5/16 NF bolts on the intake side had both stripped threads and were just hinting at a hold. Measured and tested - they will be replaced by 1.25 inch bolts. Visual inspection in the rocker box area and through the valve clearance test holes looks clean as a pin. Cleaned the advance mechanism and points mounting plate. Cleaning gaskets off is made more fun with the RTV added in. Finding that carb & choke cleaner loosens its grip and a brass rotary brush in a cheap Harbor Freight moto tool makes it look good.
Were the original covers chromed? These are, and have a ragged edge around the outside circumference. I guess the original bolts stripped out and the holes enlarged to 5/16 NF. One inch bolts fitted and obviously torqued until stripped on the intake cover. The one inch has full thread engagement on the exhaust covers, and happily a new pair of 1.25 inch bolts find good threads in the boxes and easily hold torque. I may spin some washers for them, reducing the OD and lifting the heads enough to permit a socket to fit until tight. Presently, fins on the covers interfere for the final turn. An open-end can be used, but I'd prefer more clearance and Allens would not look right along with the hex-head sleeve bolts. At least, by using the 5/16 bolts the heads use the same 1/2 wrench (sorry - spanner) all across.

I am not overly alarmed. Have seen similar and worse treatment of machines by people that shouldn't be permitted to hold tools, much less wield them. After 21 years of working on particle accelerators at a research lab, I spent the final 17 years of my professional life teaching for a company that sold cyclotrons. Some of the people that had been hired to care for the machines couldn't understand the chairs that they sat in.
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Here's another question - did the carbs (626-61,62&63) come chromed?
Well, the bodies and bowls on these are nicely chromed, as well as the throttle linkage and frame. Look very nice coming out of the ultrasonic cleaner. Since my rocker boxes are already drilled and tapped 5/16 NF, that is how they will stay. I'll take a photo of the ragged edge on the covers.
Photos of one of the carb bodies - they really seem to enjoy a bath in the ultrasonic. And one of the edge on one of the rocker covers (highlighted). BTW, neither rocker cover had an indication of where it goes. Obviously aftermarket.
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Old Amal carbs don't usually do well with chrome. I think they shortcut the usual 3-step to avoid damage, but they'd have to know how to do it.
I'm not a fan of chrome on aluminum or other metals that carbs (or cases or covers) and such are made from. But, it's what I have on this one. Ended up changing out all four outer rocker cover bolts to 1.25 5/16 NF with thick, small OD chromed (all that was available at the hardware store) washers under them. Gives them all good thread engagement. Ended up putting both covers on the 600 grit (glued to glass plate) to knock down the ridge on the edge. Carbs are out of the cleaner and next step will be to reassemble. Then clean up the points assemblies.
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