pidjones '72 T150V project

Thanks, Paul. I'll keep you in mind down the road. But it may be a long, rough road. Why do people let motorcycles set unprotected in the weather? And WHY DIDN'T I CHECK A BIT OF OIL DRAINED?

Total oil from crankcase, primary, oil tank, and gearbox. The water and sludge were in the primary and crankcase.

The cover cleaned up pretty well. The screen is soaking in kerosene.

A look in the bottom isn't quite as scary as I feared.

I figure the oil pump should come out, be inspected, and give me a lead as to where to go from here So, primary outer cover off:

And I find that the goons glued it with orange RTV instead of using the proper gasket. And, they used the hammer and chisel wrench on the drive sprocket nut.

BTW, I LOVE this impact wrench! Haven't found anything that it can't loosen yet.

BUT! the goons also RTVed the inner primary cover on, which squished into the oil pump cavity and glued it in fast. So, I guess the inner primary cover comes off tomorrow. Enough fun for today!

I don't know - without oil starvation (the RTV cut off ALL oil flow to that head) GoldWings have been known to run 300K or more miles with normal oil change type maintenance. I had 123K on a GL1800 when I sold it and it still was running like new with only oil changes and valve shim change (once). This old GL1000 would not have needed me to visit ebay for a head if not for a PO squirting orange RTV on things (and I thought that I had picked it all out). Zero oil lead to seizing the center cam bearing on the right side, which snapped in half and the front cylinder kept firing. Down on power and 2 miles from home (no awkward noise) I turned around and made it back about 1/2 mile before the bike stopped due to running the carbs dry (fuel pump run off the back of the right cam). We were taught that we were never to use RTV in the Navy, and I've only used it on exhaust systems on motorcycles. I'll use Permatex #2 non-hardening (and very lightly) to dress the new gaskets (this one had only RTV - no gasket). I sometimes use Indian Head to tack gaskets in place as it comes off easily with a wipe of acetone. The oil pump came out - well, part of it. They had broken the cover-to-body screws of in the baseplate, so it is still stuck in the hole. I was still able to blow out all of the lines and I'm reassured that the water was only in the sump and primary cover - none through the rest of the system. All of the primary outer and inner cover surfaces have been cleaned and are ready for the gaskets that are on order. Sump cover is still off and I am still swabbing it with various rags, solvents, and tools to make sure it is dry and clean. I also ordered a pair of new oil filters. The bike doesn't yet have an oil cooler, so I don't have to worry about contamination of that, and the line to it has been blown dry.

A couple photos. One of the cleaned up case awaiting inner primary cover and oil pump, the other of some of the RTV that was scrapped off the inner primary alone.

Decided this was definitely going to require engine out of the frame, even if not a full tear-down (not decided on that yet). So, today I pulled it onto a furniture dolly so I can roll it around the garage. Pretty dicey for an old man by myself, but it went Ok in the long run. Might be a different story going back in.

Actually was refering the the shaft seal. It looks good and there is no oil in the points compartment but this is the time to get it right.

This bike already has the three wires slipped through a sleeve. Yes, a molded three-lead cable would be best engineering practice. Several solutions may be available for it, including pre-made three-wire cable made for balanced audio. I've had experience sealing feed throughs for pressure and high vacuum. We even had problems with gas leaking through the individual leads requiring single-strand conductors (luckily available for high voltage in this case). In this situation, it seems that sealing both ends of a sheath with a bit of liquid electrical tape should do to seal the bundle. Might be the solution to seal the case passage also.

A long way from timing right now. Having timed the old GL1000s with dual points, lost spark, and a points cam driven by the left cam (which is belt-driven), that is still another challenge ahead.

Just more little tasks. Thanks for the added info!

Were the original covers chromed? These are, and have a ragged edge around the outside circumference. I guess the original bolts stripped out and the holes enlarged to 5/16 NF. One inch bolts fitted and obviously torqued until stripped on the intake cover. The one inch has full thread engagement on the exhaust covers, and happily a new pair of 1.25 inch bolts find good threads in the boxes and easily hold torque. I may spin some washers for them, reducing the OD and lifting the heads enough to permit a socket to fit until tight. Presently, fins on the covers interfere for the final turn. An open-end can be used, but I'd prefer more clearance and Allens would not look right along with the hex-head sleeve bolts. At least, by using the 5/16 bolts the heads use the same 1/2 wrench (sorry - spanner) all across.

I am not overly alarmed. Have seen similar and worse treatment of machines by people that shouldn't be permitted to hold tools, much less wield them. After 21 years of working on particle accelerators at a research lab, I spent the final 17 years of my professional life teaching for a company that sold cyclotrons. Some of the people that had been hired to care for the machines couldn't understand the chairs that they sat in.

Photos of one of the carb bodies - they really seem to enjoy a bath in the ultrasonic. And one of the edge on one of the rocker covers (highlighted). BTW, neither rocker cover had an indication of where it goes. Obviously aftermarket.