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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello,
Just acquired a 2013 Bonneville SE (I think thats the model T100?). Bought it from the shop I go to when I need car smogs. It was advertised on Craigslist and I was contemplating making contact for a week or two. Finally went and checked it out to see what things it might need and to take pictures. Didn't plan on taking it home on that trip but well, I jumped on it left a deposit and picked it up today. It should be a fun project! Here's some pictures of the condition bike was hit from the front I was told, not too hard. It needs some replacement pieces that broke, as well as maybe a little sanding and paint touch up on other spots. Has Hagon shocks and after market exhaust (Dominator Touring?). Not sure if my weight matches the shocks, owner was a woman so probably lighter weight than me at 215. I wasn't able to meet her, got the bike from a tow company. Has 18k miles starts and runs fine. Clean title not salvage. Always wanted one of these new bonnies now I have one!
Looking over the bike heres what I've noticed that needs replace / refinish / or other attention:
Repair or replace tank, not keeping the white / purple. Its just dented pretty well no where that was close to being punctured.
Clutch lever end broke
left turn signal chrome housing
clutch cover has road rash either sand and paint or replace
left exhaust tip has small dent and road rash. Are these stainless? maybe it can be polished up good enough
shift lever has road rash and the tip snapped off. looks like the tip was bolted on?
front caliper has road rash, sand and repaint?
New front fender
rotor might be warped
replace fork stanchions, bent! the lower housings look ok
headlight mounts may be bent, hard to tell because the front end isn't aligned!
lens has some light marks could polish out
front axle may need replace. things are out of whack, tire rubs on left lower fork so will have to check all that once apart. Cant really tell whats bent vs. misaligned at this point.
tach chrome bezel replace couple dings
the dual gauge mount piece has a several scratches / nicks. Fill and paint or replace.
Not sure what pieces will be worth my time to refinish vs replace because I don't know costs costs for some of the parts yet. Will be looking into the F3 fork tube "upgrade" I saw mentioned. Theres several on ebay right now not sure if they are a good deal and if thats all I will need. Have to look into it more.
Wow, they sure make alot of aftermarket and custom parts for these bikes! Plan is to get it roadworthy to start!
If anyones got ideas or advice on things to check that i'm not aware of i'm all ears!
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #6
nice bike! I may go that route, decided on the F3 fork swap for sure. looking for good ones on ebay atm
 

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You need to totally disassemble and have the frame looked at closely. When unbolting the engine from the frame, if there is sudden or gradual movement of the mounting tabs as the bolts come out, it is a sign of warpage. Hope you didn't drop a bundle though. Front end looks as though the rider hit something (like a stopped car) pretty squarely.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
coachconnor, thats a very good tip. I will def. do that. Picked up this bike for $600 so have some room to throw parts at it!
 

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my tank also has a dent like yours on the other side fyi. it blends in with the look of the bike.
 

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Interesting to see the shifter end snapped off at the fixing bolt. Usually these are too strong and end up torquing the whole shifter arm such that it bend the shift rod running through the gearbox...a much more difficult repair. Check that all gears select cleanly to be sure.
The clutch lever looks to have snapped at the "fail-safe" cut out...as it should to help keep a functional lever to get you home after a tip over.
Tank dent should be repairable via the old tap out from inside using long/curved ball-ended peens. Might get some way there with tack weld-on pull rivets from outside. Or, the cheapo way is just to bondo it and re-paint.

Biggest concern is potential distortion of head tube/frame. There are places that can straighten motorcycle frame damage but you'd need to strip it down.

I have those same Hagon Classic III shrouded rear shocks on my T100 (yours is an SE with alloy rims, lower seat height). Like them very much over stock...firm yet not harsh road performance. Hagon can match springs to your weight when ordering direct. There is standard pre-load adjustment on the housing (using a normal shock "C" wrench).

P.S. those gaiter clamps appear to be standard hose clamps and are not stock, and kinda fugly IMHO.
 

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When you are looking for parts make sure you look for Bonneville EFI parts, they all have the smaller alloy front wheel, your SE is a trim option with dual gauges etc but mechanical parts are regular Bonneville. The T100 has spoke wheels, different spacers, fenders etc. Bear in mind that any F3 is going to be at least 22 years old so a used set of Bonneville forks might work out the same by the time you have freshened the Honda parts. You could always upgrade the springs on a Triumph set. Looks like you also need a frt fender bracket. They are heavy gauge, also serve as a fork stiffener. The EFI Bonnevilles have a removable plate in the bottom of the tank to access the fuel pump, has the benefit of making it easier to repair dents.Like Tornado says, check that the transmission shifts properly before you throw too much money at this, he makes a good point about the shifter shaft.
 

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coachconnor, thats a very good tip. I will def. do that. Picked up this bike for $600 so have some room to throw parts at it!
Hey $600 isn't bad as long as the engine and tranny are good. Well bought I'd say.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for all the tips and things to check / look out for! This will get me going..
Have only had the bike in 1st maybe 2nd gear. Maybe I will try some home straightening on the fork tubes enough to take it around the block and check that shifting is ok. Hadn't thought about that big access hole in bottom of tank where the fuel pump sits..allowing access to pound out dents. I also thought it was weird the shift end snapped, along with the nicks in the guage mount. Maybe some of the damage is from the tow truck when it was picked up?
 

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Strongly suggest not to attempt riding with bad forks just to test shifting. Get rear off ground (center stand or pit stand or whatever) then you can run up the gears safely al low rpms.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Tornado99, your right, what was I thinking. Do these bikes have any quirks shifting or should it be pretty smooth, easy to shift and find neutral etc?
 

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Generally shifting is OK. My 2013 T100 does have bit of a clunk 1st to 2nd and back. Seems to be a common thing. Certainly not nearly as smooth as my other bike, a 1974 Norton Commando.
 

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I think you got a steal of a deal for $600. What a great project pony that one is. Like everyone said, make sure the frame isn't compromised and then go wild on e-bay and pick up some parts. Look at the Classified section on here as well. Take your time and enjoy the process. Ride safe!
 

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For 2013, the purple/white bikes were just a standard Bonneville with two tone paint. My wife bought one new. The gaiters and tach have been added by a previous owner. The 2013 SE was flat black with the red frame and stripes.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 

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If the frame is out of correct alignment, discard and find an undamaged frame. If The frame is bent any where, the steel has work hardened. Forcing the frame will likely cause bending in a part of the frame that has not been work hardened. Work hardened regions can be susceptible to cracking. Think about a paper clip that is bent back and forth until if fractured. Aka high strain fatigue. I am pretty sure that Triumph does not recommend frame straightening for a reason (product liability).
 
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