Parts swap list
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Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) (Leerlaufregler (LLRV))
955i T595
The stepper motor can be exchanged by that one for the Citroen Xantia X2 1.8i 16V 1920.V7. (Source t5net-forum.de)
Tested on my Daytona '99. The valve's head has to be exchanged manually.
955i T595
The stepper motor can be exchanged by that one for the Citroen Xantia X2 1.8i 16V 1920.V7. (Source t5net-forum.de)
Manufacturer's desc. (Hillux)
306 1,8 16V 2,0 - 2,0 16V 2,0 S16 97 -
406 1,8 16V 95 - 00
Tested on my Daytona '99. The valve's head has to be exchanged manually.
Would these parts also apply to '95 trophy 1200 mikuni carbs?
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Could you explain how you swap over the plunger?
Now that was nothing special. The real difficulty was in unscrewing the plunger. To hold it firmly with pressure without damaging it and leaving notches. I used simple pliers and protected the plunger from the gripping jaws with a rubber strip. And then I just screwed it off.
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5 Posts
I've got my plunger out - I just wondered if there was a specific way to put it in the new motor. Screw it back in or cycle the ignition etc. I've not got tune ecu.
Hmmm, TuneECU has been helpful. Especially the possibility to reset the TPS.
I had to realize that, despite the replacement, the engine kept going off. Just, because I have forgotten to reset the TPS. Ok, I have also replaced all three hoses. So, its worth a try. But if you brake, downshift and your rear wheel suddenly stops because the engine is off, you know what the problem is. Then you will need the software.
In what condition are your hoses? I ask because mine were all broken and I had to look for a good solution for a long time. Finally I found a 4.5mm corrugated hose, which I combined with a normal 6mm petrol hose as a transition to the valve housing. Simply plugged into each other and glued. However, I hope the exchange works without having to reset the TPS.
Sorry if this has already been discussed. I thought I had seen something here somewhere already but I can’t find it. 96 Daytona 900 rear brake caliper, are there “will fit” parts for a more common application, I need one, bike is down, don’t want a cheap knockoff, also don’t want to drop $600 on a new Triumph part. Any thoughts are welcome.
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Have looked into a german T300 forum. I haven't found an alternative solution for your rear brake caliper. Not yet. For the front brakes, the Suzuki GSXR and Bandit 1200 shall be the same. (SUZUKI GSX-R 1100, VIN: GV73C107231, Typ: GV 73 C, EZ.: 04.06.1991) Maybe helpful in the future.
Should I find something, I will answer you here.
I have the ZX10 caliper upgrade in front, easy find parts. I have the caliper stripped, soaking for now. I’m gonna try to save it, wish me luck
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8 Posts
Just bougt an 'OEM' thermostat from Triumph for my Daytona 955 2006.
Triumph part number T2100715 £37.88 plus shipping plus VAT.
Turns out it is a Vernet Calorstat made in France part number TH3328.88J....can be bought all over the internet for £10
For example from here
TH3328.88J CALORSTAT by Vernet Engine thermostat Opening Temperature: 88°C, with seal ➤ AUTODOC
Also fits the following cars if you need to go to a car dealer:
Triumph part number T2100715 £37.88 plus shipping plus VAT.
Turns out it is a Vernet Calorstat made in France part number TH3328.88J....can be bought all over the internet for £10
For example from here
TH3328.88J CALORSTAT by Vernet Engine thermostat Opening Temperature: 88°C, with seal ➤ AUTODOC
Also fits the following cars if you need to go to a car dealer:
- OEN 96610574 — CHEVROLET
- OEN 96610574 — DAEWOO
- OEN 16341-87208 — DAIHATSU
- OEN 16341-87208-000 — DAIHATSU
- OEN 16341-87282-000 — DAIHATSU
- OEN 16341-87290-000 — DAIHATSU
- OEN 16341-87583 — DAIHATSU
- OEN 16341-87583-000 — DAIHATSU
- OEN 16341-87781-000 — DAIHATSU
- OEN 1634187786 — DAIHATSU
- OEN 16341-87786-000 — DAIHATSU
- OEN 16341-87793 — DAIHATSU
- OEN 16341-87793-000 — DAIHATSU
- OEN 16341-87795-000 — DAIHATSU
- OEN 90048-33011 — DAIHATSU
- OEN 90048-33011-000 — DAIHATSU
- OEN 90048-33023-000 — DAIHATSU
- OEN 6554021601 — INNOCENTI
- OEN 1A04-15-171 — MAZDA
- OEN 8BA2-15-171 — MAZDA
- OEN 8BA2-15-171A — MAZDA
- OEN AY01-15-171 — MAZDA
- OEN ZZS0-15-171 — MAZDA
- OEN ZZS2-15-171 — MAZDA
- OEN ZZS3-15-171 — MAZDA
- OEN ZZS4-15-171 — MAZDA
- OEN MD096658 — MITSUBISHI
- OEN MD115075 — MITSUBISHI
- OEN 21200-01800 — NISSAN
- OEN 21200-01B00 — NISSAN
- OEN 21200-4A00G — NISSAN
- OEN 16341-87795-000 — PIAGGIO
- OEN 17600-85821 — SUBARU
- OEN 485785400 — SUBARU
- OEN 1760077820 — SUZUKI
- OEN 17600-82831 — SUZUKI
- OEN 17600-82840 — SUZUKI
- OEN 17600-82850 — SUZUKI
- OEN 17600-85820 — SUZUKI
- OEN 17600-85821 — SUZUKI
- OEN 17670-50G10 — SUZUKI
- OEN 1767050G10000 — SUZUKI
- OEN 17670-76G10 — SUZUKI
- OEN 17670-79011 — SUZUKI
- OEN 17670-82010 — SUZUKI
- OEN 17670-85010 — SUZUKI
- OEN 1767085020 — SUZUKI
While on the subject of thermostat, my 2003 runs hot. It doesn;t overheat, but I can be crusing on the highway @ 100kph when its 20C ambient and still the temp in the early 90s and if you're going slower it quickly gets up to 99 with the fan kicking in, even while still in motion.
Confirming the OEM thermostat is 88C? I believe i have read some have fitted an 82C thermo, does anyone have any info here? 88C thermo is very high in my opinion, especially for australian summer.
Confirming the OEM thermostat is 88C? I believe i have read some have fitted an 82C thermo, does anyone have any info here? 88C thermo is very high in my opinion, especially for australian summer.
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8 Posts
Yes, OEM is 88C. Since fitting the replacement thermostat and a newer better OEM rad plus fresh coolant, mine now runs between 85 to 90C in 18C outside temp when moving. Before it was always over 100C in the same conditions. So, a full coolant system service certainly helped! Also check that the righthand side of the radiator has coolant to the top through the bleed bolt hole. I used a hand siphon pump to pull coolant into there whilst bleeding it.
Which radiator have you fitted? The radiator on my bike was a little dirty and full of junk externally when i got the bike. As part of my reco i spent a lot of time to pressure wash, clean it out, unblock and straighten any fins, along with a fresh lick of paint.Cooling system seemed clean so i am fairly confident it should be alright inside too. Coolant is flushed, fresh and bled.
As mentioned it runs a little hot for my liking so next step i was going to replace the thermostat, temp sensor and pressure cap and see how it sits. Would like the temp to be 5-10c cooler overall and not leaning on the fan cut-in temp so often. Despite filling the reservoir to the bare minimum it still tends to a few drops coolant out the overflow tube on a ride. I think the cause of this is mostly the shitty design of the reservoir, but i have read that replacing the cap can tend to fix the issue and i can run a little more coolant in the reservoir without it pushing out. So hopefully both these issues can be sorted.
Going back to your info on the thermostat. Great info. Another option is the Vernet TH3328.82J which is an 82C thermostat. I think i will go with this rather than the expensive OEM thermo!
Edit: cross reference i have found for those of us in Australia, Tridon make a direct fit thermostat, TT239-180 for 82c & TT239-185 for 85c
Edit: cross reference i have found for those of us in Australia, Tridon make a direct fit thermostat, TT239-180 for 82c & TT239-185 for 85c
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8 Posts
OEM from early 2000 low mileage bike. It doesn't have the small spout for the head bypass pipe, so I cut the big water pump to rad hose and fitted an in-line T piece to which I connected the bypass hose.
My original 2006 radiator also had a few fins missing which wouldn't have helped the cooling.
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