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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All.

Have been collecting, making, or planning to buy tools for my T140V.

I've spotted Part 61-6019 Crankshaft Pinion removal tool for 37.50 GBP plus 10% gst.

Is this good value or can I do better by picking up a non genuine tool alternative?

If I can score something in Australia I can save on shipping, but U.K. is probably my next best bet as U.S. international shipping can work out several more times than the tool price itself.


Looking for ideas and or recommendations?

Cheers


R R
 

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I've got that tool 61-6019 myself and it did work very well. I bought it from TMS Nottingham UK and it is the same price as you quoted
 

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Hi Rod, Generally speaking, all the sellers mark the reproduction puller with Triumph part #61-6019. That doesn't mean that it's a genuine old stock tool.

I have one that I got from Bonneville shop. Visually looks like the one TMS sells.

https://thebonnevilleshop.com/triumph-norton-bsa-500-650-750-crankshaft-pinion-extractor-puller-pn-tbs-0313-61-6019-06-7524-z121/

In any case very often you'll have to grind the corner off the puller jaws to gain clearance to get jaws behind gear. It depends on the case casting you have. Some will just clear, but most not. Also from what I've observed the different makers or even production batch have a slightly different jaw shape that may or may not clear better. So it's a crap shoot. In any case grind the very least off you can.

Some pry the gear off with levers like screw drivers etc. DO NOT do that. That takes great judgement & skill to pull gear without the tool, plus depends on how tight your gear fits. Don't chance ruining your case or gear. Get the tool & grind it if/as needed.

The cam gears fit tight also. You'll need a cam gear puller. '77 T140 the gears are drilled for 2 bolts for the puller.

Mine is home made, Just a square bar with 3 holes, the center one tapped for pressure screw. Here's one from Bonneville shop. A nice fancy one.

https://thebonnevilleshop.com/triumph-bsa-camshaft-timing-pinion-puller-tool-pn-61-3256-61-3676-61-6014-61-6046-61-3773/

As I recall you made tool to remove front mount dowel & got it out, so you should have no problem making the cam gear puller. If you have a drill press drill the holes with drill press. Use drill press chuck to hold tap & turn chuck by hand until tap is well started. Then it's ok to relocate metal to vise to finishing taping with tap holder. The drill press assures the thread is started straight.
Don
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the incites Don.

I'll definitely work on the engine with the correct tools and make sure I know what I'm doing before tackling each procedure.

Just collecting at this stage before the GBP recovers.

Purchases for Triumph are cheaper freighted from England than they are over here.

Bonneville Shop was always tempting but International U.S. freight is a huge impediment.

cheers

R R


Hi Rod, Generally speaking, all the sellers mark the reproduction puller with Triumph part #61-6019. That doesn't mean that it's a genuine old stock tool.

I have one that I got from Bonneville shop. Visually looks like the one TMS sells.

https://thebonnevilleshop.com/triumph-norton-bsa-500-650-750-crankshaft-pinion-extractor-puller-pn-tbs-0313-61-6019-06-7524-z121/

In any case very often you'll have to grind the corner off the puller jaws to gain clearance to get jaws behind gear. It depends on the case casting you have. Some will just clear, but most not. Also from what I've observed the different makers or even production batch have a slightly different jaw shape that may or may not clear better. So it's a crap shoot. In any case grind the very least off you can.

Some pry the gear off with levers like screw drivers etc. DO NOT do that. That takes great judgement & skill to pull gear without the tool, plus depends on how tight your gear fits. Don't chance ruining your case or gear. Get the tool & grind it if/as needed.

The cam gears fit tight also. You'll need a cam gear puller. '77 T140 the gears are drilled for 2 bolts for the puller.

Mine is home made, Just a square bar with 3 holes, the center one tapped for pressure screw. Here's one from Bonneville shop. A nice fancy one.

https://thebonnevilleshop.com/triumph-bsa-camshaft-timing-pinion-puller-tool-pn-61-3256-61-3676-61-6014-61-6046-61-3773/

As I recall you made tool to remove front mount dowel & got it out, so you should have no problem making the cam gear puller. If you have a drill press drill the holes with drill press. Use drill press chuck to hold tap & turn chuck by hand until tap is well started. Then it's ok to relocate metal to vise to finishing taping with tap holder. The drill press assures the thread is started straight.
Don
 

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Postage is weeks quicker from UK as well. I have found that a part from the UK takes 5-7 days...from the USA 3 weeks. Others might say otherwise but that's my experience over many years.
 

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Postage is weeks quicker from UK as well. I have found that a part from the UK takes 5-7 days...from the USA 3 weeks. Others might say otherwise but that's my experience over many years.
Definitely.

There's been shipments from the U.K. that have caught me off guard.

Expecting a couple of weeks and seeing the box after one.
 

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The cam gears fit tight also. You'll need a cam gear puller. '77 T140 the gears are drilled for 2 bolts for the puller.

Mine is home made, Just a square bar with 3 holes, the center one tapped for pressure screw. Here's one from Bonneville shop. A nice fancy one.

https://thebonnevilleshop.com/triumph-bsa-camshaft-timing-pinion-puller-tool-pn-61-3256-61-3676-61-6014-61-6046-61-3773/


Don
How do you install cam gear with that tool? I have the "traditional" style that screws on the cam thread so the gear can be pressed on...On the later engines with the threaded holes I use a steering wheel puller..
I'm one of those guys that prys off the crank pinion using two small "lady slippers" Always intend to buy the tool but never do..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
How do you install cam gear with that tool? I have the "traditional" style that screws on the cam thread so the gear can be pressed on...On the later engines with the threaded holes I use a steering wheel puller..
I'm one of those guys that prys off the crank pinion using two small "lady slippers" Always intend to buy the tool but never do..
Good question T.

Don indicated that it's a tight fit.

I can see how the puller can remove the gear, but I'm also interested in how its refitted.

cheers

R R
 

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Hi Rod, The flat gears with 2 holes can be pulled on with the early 650 install tool threaded onto cam, using a spacer tube & large flat washer with install tool. Or just knock gear on far enough to get the nut started & finish with cam nut. I have the early 650 tool so I don't have to knock them on. I have a spare cam & gear. When I get a chance I'll do a mock up & photo it.

Regarding crank tool here's the one I got. I didn't mean get it from USA, but showed the tool I use. See where the end is ground thinner. Pencil shows it. Grind least as possible as thinner is weaker.

I have a tube I use to knock crank gear on, the finish with nut.

I have photos of all my tools if you need them. With photos of them being used. Most of them anyway.
Don
 

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I have the puller with all the teeth. So you slide it over the teeth, then turn it a half tooth so that the gear teeth and the cog teeth line up, lock it off and then start pulling the gear. Had it for years, but also agree with Don, you need to grind the puller down so that they fit in the back of the gear. Check your gear before removal, generally the back 1 or 2mm of the teeth is not used and to make removal easier, turn it down on a lathe to that you have more room behind the gear. I found this especially important on the 500 twins I have worked on, they had almost no room behind the teeth for a puller to access. 650's and 750's are better, not brilliant, but better.
 

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Hi Tridentt150, I've seen your puller in photos only, never in real life. I've always wondered if they worked better?

It seems?? The 3 jaw puller was introduced with the unit 650?? But I don't know. I'm curious about these things for no good reason.

I know there's not much room behind gear. Problem is the gear is already on. I've never considered cutting teeth on gear. I just put it back on. I've only used the puller about 5 times now & so far has held up well.
Don
 

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I have a similar tool to the one Don has shown. I also had to grind the bottom edge down a little to get it under the gear. The tool works very well. I have managed to pull off a gear using levers but so much easier with a puller.
 

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Hi Rod, The flat gears with 2 holes can be pulled on with the early 650 install tool threaded onto cam, using a spacer tube & large flat washer with install tool. Or just knock gear on far enough to get the nut started & finish with cam nut.
Don
If the cylinders are on the engine you can't knock on the gear far enough without the the key drifting into the cam bushing...
 

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i did cams in my 1972 years ago when i knew even less than i do now.

why do we get all this experience and insight when we're way old, instead of when we're young when it would do us some good? i now have all this experience and knowledge about machines built 50 years ago that nobody will need in another 25. never mind.

anyway, my 1972 camwheels have the little UNF holes that allowed me to use some sort of ordinary puller to get them off, but i can't remember for the life of me how i got them back on. i suspect i tapped and tapped on them until there was enough thread to pull them on with the nuts, and consequently dug the key into the bushes.

i have the factory-style puller now, two, in fact, and i use them for on/off both. MAP has a slightly different one that they sell:



dunno if that's any better.

and until just recently, i used a couple of star wheel levers to get the crank pinion off:



now i have the tool, and use it. but the starwheel levers worked just as well. the pinions are never very tight.
 
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