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I'm starting to look at getting the 5 cent/dime-sized stone chip in my petrol tank fixed (and the pinhead-sized one I put on top of the tank by being careless getting the brake reservoir cap off) and have found a whole new area to explore. One crash repairer described just how labour intensive it is to restore/renew paintwork on Triumph tanks because of the quality of the (acrylic?) paintwork, whereas they only used 2 pack (waterbased?). He put me onto a guy who used to just do Triumph tanks exclusively. I called him, but as labour on these jobs ran at around 40 hours and he didn't get the takers to make it worthwhile, he's now sold all his gear. Called the local Triumph dealer, and got onto their painter, and he uses 2 pack.

So... what do you all out there know about painting our girls? Is 2 pack acceptable? I've read somewhere that the tanks were originally hand-painted. For a year I've just been turning over the options of repairing and retaining the original paintwork, out of a sense of, I don't know, tradition? respect? even though I would prefer an all-silver tank (it's black on top, silver below). I DON'T want a substandard job, though.
 

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What is 2 pack?

I just had a fender repainted. DuPont basecoat, and clear over that.
It is definitely not water based paint. I took the bike to the auto paint supply store, they used their camera gadget to determine the formula, and it matches perfectly.

I suppose you'll have a different brand down under?
 

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Good question. It's a common kind of body paint for vehicles used here. Beyond that, I haven't got a clue. When he said waterbased, I was surprised, to say the least. I'll do some more research, and come back with more detail. I was also surprised when this particular guy said he couldn't match the original paint. After all, isn't that what crash repairers do?? Perhaps he only wants big jobs.
 

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Two pack is when you need to add a hardener to the paint. I painted my tank and used cellulose with a clearcoat on top. Looks almost as good as factory finish and I'm only an amateur sprayer. A good paint supplier should be able to match any colour by eye.


Crap picture, but you get the idea

 

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The only thing that is/was hand painted is the gold pinstripe.

Water based paint seems to be the latest attempt to save the planet, what with it having no volatile thinners in it. From what I've seen, it seems to be very soft and prone to fine scratches.
 

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Water based paint seems to be the latest attempt to save the planet, what with it having no volatile thinners in it. From what I've seen, it seems to be very soft and prone to fine scratches.
Generally, the waterborne part is just the basecoat. The clearcoats are still usually solvent-based and require a hardener. Once fully cured, it should be a hard, durable, long-lasting finish.
 

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...He put me onto a guy who used to just do Triumph tanks exclusively. I called him, but as labour on these jobs ran at around 40 hours and he didn't get the takers to make it worthwhile, he's now sold all his gear...
What did this guy do? Hand-fabricate new tanks? 40 hours is not reasonable. No wonder he didn't have any customers.
 

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What did this guy do? Hand-fabricate new tanks? 40 hours is not reasonable. No wonder he didn't have any customers.
if its the same guy i think it is he would take a rusty pre war tank and bring it up so good you could chrome it then after chroming he would do the paint and pin strips thats where the 40 odd hours come in is saw a 38 trumpy tank he did and it was better than new the 40 hours was not for just paint

ps denny 2 pack is very common down here sets as hard as so less stone chips than original paint
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, Buckoz, that sounds like the guy. I was just told he strips it back to metal and starts again, and that the final product is excellent.
 

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Have you looked for a replacement tank?
It would be cheaper than 40 hours of labor!

I had a vintage tank painted and I was never satisfied that it was as durable as the factory job. I decided that the little nicks and chips in the faded original tank were character that I didn't want to part with and sold the replacement straightaway.

Something here that might work?
http://www.motorcyclestore.us/closeouts/index.html
 

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Have you looked for a replacement tank?

I had a vintage tank painted and I was never satisfied that it was as durable as the factory job. I decided that the little nicks and chips in the faded original tank were character that I didn't want to part with and sold the replacement straightaway.


I have been keeping an eye out on ebay to gauge tank prices. The killer is usually the postage to aust. In the end, the cheaper ones tend to have dings in them, which I don't want to have to repair or live with, or they're the wrong colour (understandably), or have similar superficial flaws to mine. And cost a lot.

I'm pretty obsessively trying to return this bike to showroom condition, with all plastic, aluminium and black swapped out for chrome. The tank is the last thing (aside of the two screws that hold the instrument gauges on) that needs attention. Having said that, both fenders have small scratches, too, so...

It never ends, does it? A friend warned me of that when I said, "All I want is a centrestand, and I'll be happy."

Bottom line is, I think I'll hold off till I bump into a guy who says, "Nice bike. I dig Triumphs, too. I've sprayed thousands of them." Oh, and, "Still have all my gear, too."
 

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Deadman,

I'd try contacting some dealers to see if they have a spare sitting on the shelf. If they have been sitting on it for a while then they might be willing to cut the price.

It might take a bit of time and effort, but that is how I found our leftover TBird when the local dealers said that there were none (and didn't seem to willing to help search).
Just shotgun emails to dealers, especially ones that you've heard were heavy into your model.
 
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