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OK I'm not an electrician, how would i wire my head light and tail light now i have my magneto.i know i will need my alternator, but what the wire diagram look like. or how would i run the wires from what to what to what. if you now what i mean. sorry for the stupidity.
thanks
:-g :???:

[ This message was edited by: dgfironworks on 2006-12-10 06:22 ]
 

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You'll have to rectify and regulate the alternator's output, so either a zener and old style rectifier, or a modern solid state regulator/rectifier.

From there, you have a hot wire. Just wire each light to receive power from each switch (on/off, hi/lo and brake light switch). Each of those switches receives power either directly from the hot wire (brake light), or through the light switch (all other).

Horn gets it's power from the horn button, which gets it's power through the keyswitch, but can also be "hot wired" if you are doing without the keyswitch altogether.

I'm not sure about these modern ARD mags, but the old ones required grounding to "kill" them, so you needed to have a keyswitch with a "normally closed" set of contacts to kill the mag when you turn the key off.

ALL components are either grounded through their mounting, or a "return" wire to the common Red wires in the harness, which are all grounded to the frame & engine.
 

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Wire everything except for the ignition components as per stock. At the igniton switch, remove the lead that feeds the ignition coils.....the white wire, if stock. The ignition has it's own power source (a teeny alternator under the "points" cover) and you just wire it like the instructions tell you. The alternator/battery system is separate, no interaction, with the magneto ignition components.
 

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Personally, the single phase Sparx unit works fine. Some folks swear by the 3-phase units.

Have you seen the imitation "finned egg" zener diode heatsink that is actually a regulator/rectifier? They are the ones to have!
 

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I like the HD units. You can usually get them used from a custom shop for cheap money, as take offs. Or you can buy one of the zoomy custom ones, chrome, etc....but any of the single phase (two alternator wires) boxes from a HD will work just fine. The least alternator output is from the early evo sportsters, and at 17A, no Lucas single phase alternator will challenge it. MAP also carries the Tympanium unit, much smaller item.
 

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Any Sparx dealer. Yep, it's both a regulator and rectifier, so you have to extend the alternator wires up to it.
 

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I'm a Sparx dealer. The finned egg comes with nice long wires in a plastic loom that reach all the way back to the electrical area.

One thing I do that's not shown on the wiring diagram is to pull the Black lead out and run it up to the ammeter. If you don't, you won't have charge indication!
 

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I know its an old post, but does anyone know with a magneto and sparx reg/rect how long it takes to warm up before it can power brake light and halogen head lamp?
 

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Thx GP, any gain by adding a an additional capacitor?
 

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.. should I also add a fuse in line between sparx and switch?
 

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You should always add a fuse to your main circuit (at least), and no need for a capacitor with a no-battery system, as a second or two after the engine stops, the capacitor drains with just a tail light bulb.
 

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Thx again, one last question - do you suggest 20 amp or 15? for main circuit.
 
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