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Yet another oil thread. Use any reputable brand of oil that meets the specs in the owner's manual.
 
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I like to run 10w50 full-syn in my bike year-round. Having some 50 weight in there smooths shifting tremendously compared to 40 which gets way too thin on hot days. I tried Rotella 5w40 synthetic in the winter once and it made starting the cold bike a lot easier but really it wasn't worth it to change out oil just for 3-4 months. I don't understand this guy's cocktail of oils. They have already blended your oil to perfection at the refinery. It's like mixing 3 different vodkas to make a martini. Does it really make a difference? I don't think so.
 

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Manual on my 2013 Thruxton says use semi or full syn. 10W/40 or 10W/50. API SH (or higher) and JASO MA. They specifically mentioned Castrol Power 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 full syn. sometimes sold as Castrol Power RS Racing 4T 10W-40. This is a good place to start and maybe stay?

I like to buy my oil in 5 quart containers and have been using Mobil 1 15W-50 since I acquired my bike used, along with the Mobil 1 108A oil filter to keep it in the family. Now pushing 20,000 miles and no issues with regular oil changes, per manufacturer spec. In fact I took a look at the inside when I did my first late valve clearance check (18K), and clean as a whistle. No accumulating deposits I could see, although I did not look inside the cylinder heads. And no gap adjustment needed yet!

Plan on continuing to use this oil/filter combo for the foreseeable future. I ride mostly 50 F+ degrees, sometimes 90's, mix of motorway and city, in Michigan, USA, where the 5 qt. container is available from Walmart for around $25.

You will find mixed consensus on oil brands, specific types, etc., but I see a general consensus on full syn. as preferred. The oil I have been using has never resulted in the clutch slipping, and I have read it has a higher than usual zinc content favored by wet clutches, but I'm NOT an engineer.

Hope this helps. My advice...don't over think it and enjoy the ride.

Ride safe, Thruxty.
 

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@eire49 So this is your typical oil thread. You have a mountain of opinions and no consensus.

Have you decided what you'll do?
 
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I buy my oil in quart containers because they're easier to pour into the funnel and I can easily monitor how much I put in, usually about 3.7 quarts. I check the level the after it sits overnight and my engine has not died yet, at 38,000+ miles.
 

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😁😄😄 I thought the Laverda forum was the Zenith for oil do's and don'ts but apparently not. Just follow the handbook, the only thing I never do is change the oil without changing the filter, seems pointless to put expensive fresh oil into what is a used filter. Years back when I was dispatching we were doing weekly oil and filter changes, covering 4k miles per week, I've seen 300-400k miles on engines without major issues although we never skimped on maintenance schedules as it was our life and livelihood. Follow the handbook use good quality oil and genuine filters and you can't go wrong. 👍
 

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Thank goodness it's in a quart/liter container.
 

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my next batch of oil for an impending service including a fork oil change
the Silkolene has a little bit of left over from the previous oil change and the other brand Motorex is new to me, but I picked it up cheap on sale.
with the fork oil I usually use super-clean hydraulic oil such as Castrol Hyspin or BP Bartran in the equivalent viscosity in cStk's which is written in fine print on the back of the bottle. in this case 15W is ISO 46 CentiStokes at 40 deg C.
760524
 

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Hello, I’m new here and just purchased a 2004 bonneville t100 and was wondering what oil weight to use? The previous owner was using a combo of 2quarts 20w50, 1quart 10w30 and the last being 5w20.
The brand? Castrol gtx for all.
The PO was a mechanical engineer and had plenty of convincing reasons as to why I should use this mixture- I’m thinking I’m gonna stick with it unless convinced otherwise. Thanks View attachment 759962 View attachment 759963
 

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For a carb bike I recommend the widest range of viscosity oil you can get as it evens out the idle rpm between cold to hot. Castrol used to do a 5W/50, which I used, but it got too costly so I moved down to 5-40 rotella. No problems
With plastic oil pump gears, using a thick oil on a cold start will put a lot of load thru the plastic - not good.
5W also circulates down the oil passages with less pressure loss - so the oil gets there, which in my mind is more important than anything else, special when the engine is cold.

Oh, I'm a retired mechanical engineer BTW - not that anyone listened to my opinions or inventions over the last 31 years at the aerospace company I worked for. They muddled thru anyway. I'm sure no-one will listen now 😊
 

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NONE of the oils in the posters photograph are suitable for use in a Motorcycle. The oil must have a JASO specification. Jaso Specification means suitable for wet clutch. Mixing weights on fresh oil change is just plain stupid and serves no purpose. This "mechanical engineer" was just getting rid of crap he had in the garage or should have his license revoked.

I originally ran Triumph branded 15W50 Mobil 1 until Triumph discontinued it. Then Mobil 1 20w50 VTwin until it stopped being a JASO oil. I ran Royal Purple 20W50 MaxCycle until recently. At 134,000 miles (215,000km) my oil consumption has climbed to 1 1/2 quarts in 3,000 miles. Just Switched to Redline 20W60 in an attempt to slow the burn. A straight weight 50 or 60 would have been preferred, but the availability is virtually non existent. This bike is ran hard in 100 degree temperature on a regular basis. When I am touring and low a quart, Shell Rotella is JASO and available almost anywhere.

Everyone has a brand preference. Choose a name brand synthetic motorcycle oil.
 

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With plastic oil pump gears, using a thick oil on a cold start will put a lot of load thru the plastic - not good.
Interesting observation. I stopped using 20W50 because I thought it was too thick and made the bike too hard to start from cold. The Mobil Racing 10W40 motorcycle oil I put in there now is noticeably thin compared to the Amsoil 20W50, and that might be better. It certainly made the bike easier to start. Maybe it saved my oil pump gears too. :unsure:
 

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Inspection of my oil pump gears at 103,000 miles showed no measurable wear or visible stress. The only reason I even looked at it was I had split the cases to rebuild the transmission and replace the worn out 5th gear input and output shafts. I have the gears in stock and planned on replacing them the next time I do Clutch Springs. I have never had an issue starting Any of my Bikes and they all have ran 20W50 Motor Oil in them. I also only ride in weather 40 degrees Plus....
 

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Just to clarify, I never had a "starting issue", it just started quicker and easier with 10W40 oil.
 

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NONE of the oils in the posters photograph are suitable for use in a Motorcycle. The oil must have a JASO specification. Jaso Specification means suitable for wet clutch. Mixing weights on fresh oil change is just plain stupid and serves no purpose. This "mechanical engineer" was just getting rid of crap he had in the garage or should have his license revoked.

I originally ran Triumph branded 15W50 Mobil 1 until Triumph discontinued it. Then Mobil 1 20w50 VTwin until it stopped being a JASO oil. I ran Royal Purple 20W50 MaxCycle until recently. At 134,000 miles (215,000km) my oil consumption has climbed to 1 1/2 quarts in 3,000 miles. Just Switched to Redline 20W60 in an attempt to slow the burn. A straight weight 50 or 60 would have been preferred, but the availability is virtually non existent. This bike is ran hard in 100 degree temperature on a regular basis. When I am touring and low a quart, Shell Rotella is JASO and available almost anywhere.

Everyone has a brand preference. Choose a name brand synthetic motorcycle oil.
Duckman,
After reading the above post I did some research on Mobil1 V Twin. That is the only oil I have used since 2005 in my 2 T100's. You are right there is no JASO specs on the bottle.
But it is API SG + SH certified. The way I understood the research I did this is equal to a JASO spec. Please tell me if I'm right or wrong ?
Thanks
Quentin
 

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P.S. I've never had a clutch slippage problem on any of the bikes I've owned and have always used car or diesel oils in them.
I did recently read that if you have a cat converter, you should not use oils meant for diesel engines as the extra stuff they have can slowly mess up the converter.
So for the 3 bikes I have now, I will change the FZ09 over to car oils
 
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