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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I would like to know how much return oil I should be seeing in the oil tank on my t100R? At an idle there isn't very much. At 2000 rpm its a squirt, squirt but not a stream. So, how much return oil should be visible in the oil tank?

I'll try and explain why I am asking. I recently bought this unrunning bike. The wiring was a mess so I bought and installed a wire harness. At a certain point in the new wire harness I thought this bike should run. After prior carb rebuilds and other stuff I tried to start the bike and it ran. The oil light on the headlight shell went off after it started. Things looked good. So, I shut it off and completed the wire harness, and other things, and decided to change all fluids. Among those fluids was the engine oil. As per the manual I drained the oil tank and removed the sump drain plug. I replaced the screen with a new one. I put things back together and installed 20-50 motorcycle oil. I chose this oil because I read in the owners manual its a recommended oil for the bike. Now I go to start the bike again and it runs, but the light on the headlight shell does not go off. I put a oil pressure gauge where the oil pressure switch is and at idle I get what I would call 0. At about 2000 rpm I get about 10 psi. I am positive the oil lines are hooked up correct, front=feed and rear=return. I am getting return just not very much.

What did I do wrong? Any help would be appreciated!!

Thanks, John :frown2:
 

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Hi John,

I would like to know how much return oil I should be seeing in the oil tank on my t100R?
What you're describing sounds normal. The scavenge side of the pump can only return what the feed side pumps in and drains into the sump. The twins don't pump much oil. The scavenge side is also more powerful than the feed side so, normally, it sucks air when the sump is clear, so the tank return is a series of spurts.

I'll try and explain why I am asking.
There are several possible reasons for why you're seeing what you're seeing on the gauge:-

. the gauge isn't working correctly - try another gauge;

. the seal in the timing cover on the end of the crank has split or inverted - John Healy ("johntioc" here recommends the Pioneer Weston brand only);

. the oil pressure relief valve isn't working correctly - remove it, clean it and check the spring is within the tolerances in the workshop manual;

. the big-ends are buggered. :cry

Bear in mind that the pressures given in the workshop manual - 20/25 psi @ "Tickover" and 50/60 psi "Normal running" are with oil at normal working temperature (hot) and the latter is above about 3,000~3,500 rpm. Cold oil should give much higher pressures.

When intending to start a rebuilt Triumph engine or one that hasn't been used for a long period, Waking The Sleeping Beast. :thumb

Hth.

Regards,
 

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Hi John,

It's possible either your oil pressure relief valve is stuck open or your check balls in the pump need to be reseated.

There may have been contamination in the sump that was disturbed when you removed the sump drain. Like you, I followed the exact procedure as the manual describes when I did my first oil change and never had any issues. Lucky maybe, I guess. I've never removed it again since when changing the oil.
 

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Pressure disappearing after an oil change and someone messing about with the sump strainer, sounds like the pump needs cleaned and the ball valves reseated.

Of course, while the timing cover is off, you'll see the oil seal. At least I think these late 500s have a seal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies. I took the oil pump apart and cleaned it out. Now I have 78 psi at cold idle! Must have gotten a piece of grit in there when I took off the sump drain plug. Lesson learned! :smile2:
 

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Sorry but I think you got that wrong, any crap from removing the drain plug affects the scavenge return pump not the feed pump.
Somehow you got the debris in the feed side of the pump when you drained the oil tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Old Cafe Racer thanks for that info. Yes, I did have to do some work on the oil tank. It had a crack by one of the upper mounts. Had to do a little welding. Guess I didn't get it cleaned good enough.:frown2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Triton Thrasher, I didn't run it long enough to get a warm pressure. I just put it back together to check oil pressure. I have new gaskets and seals ordered and will take it back apart and install those when I get them. Then I should be able to get a warm oil pressure reading.
I have been reading about the timing. I suppose I will have to reset that since I have removed the contact breakers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I was able to run it a little today and oil pressure stayed above 70. It didn't really get hot but warm I would say. When I put the oil pump back on and timing cover I used the gaskets that were on it so I am waiting for the new ones I ordered.

I am getting ready to post another question on here about the clutch now! Fix one thing and another something shows up! The clutch cable isn't disengaging the gears. :frown2:
 
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