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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any idea how much a new oil pan / sump costs for an 08 S3?

Just wondering... not that I cracked mine or anything while changing the oil today, cuz that would make me an IDIOT!!

Also, in the strictly hypothetical situation that I DID crack mine, would a "JB Weld fix" void my warranty?

Now, back to banging my head against the wall...
 

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If it is just a clean crack around the drain plug then a local aluminium welder could probably fix it for much less $$$.
 

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I have had to deal with stripped threads on the drain plug hole. Used a heil-coil that worked. Also a crack could be repaired by a compentent TIG welder if the base alloy is compatiable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
what exactly did you do that makes you feel it needs to be replaced? Cracked 'what' exactly? :confused:
Well, I kinda sorta tightened the drain plug just a wee bit too much. Apparently the torque wrench I was using wasn't set at the correct torque, and I also have a tendency to over-tighten things regardless of how many times I read "DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN THE DRAIN PLUG". I ended up with three cracks 'starring' out (if that makes sense) from the plug hole. I realize now, being much more educated on this issue, that the drain plug needs very little torque... ie. a torque wrench likely isn't even needed.

My worry about even trying to attempt a quick fix was, while JB Weld may work for the cracks in general, it may not fix where the cracks and the drain hole threads meet. A local shop figured they could do a decent job fixing it, and would re-tap the threads if necessary... but I didn't want to chance having further problems, especially when it comes to oil possibly dripping on to my rear tire.

So I bucked up and will have the bike in the shop next week for a new pan. $411 Cdn (more or less on par with BikeBandit after exchange, shipping and all). After gasket, labour, oil change, etc, I'll be in to it for around $600. All because I had a brain fart and over torqued a bolt. Expensive lesson to learn, but man do I feel smarter (and at the same time much stupider) for it.

BTW - I will post pics for 'educational purposes' in the next day or so. The only thing better than an oil thread is an "I royally screwed up my oil change" thread, with pictures!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
In case anyone was curious...

Sump - $411.59
Gasket - $13.77
Gasket Exhuast - 3 @ $6.42 - $19.26
Oil Filter - $16.04
Oil - 4L @ $13.95 - $55.80
Labour - 4 hrs @ $85.00 - $340.00
Tax - $102.78
Grand Total - $959.24

Those are all in Cdn dollars. Hey, at least you can't ever claim I don't support my local economy.

(Oh, and I should add to the above list... Cranking your oil drain plug so stupidly tight you end up experiencing the shame of replacing your sump - Priceless)
 

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A little late but I wanted to add that I've not had any luck fixing oil pans with JBWeld in the past. I cracked the pan on my rally beater Subaru awhile back and tried a dozen different ways to fix it with JBWeld, including the standard variety and the "wet" variety that supposedly works under water. With a little scuffing with sand paper I was able to get them to stick, but they'd always pop right off with the least bit of pressure :(
 

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Sorry to bring this thread back, but I did a similar thing on my O6 S3. I have all the parts (sump, gasket, seals) and I'm ready to replace it. Anything I should know before I take it apart?

I THINK I need to take the exhaust off. Think I need to take rad and oil cooler off to get the exhaust off? That about it? Never done much on my bike.
 

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In case anyone was curious...

Sump - $411.59
Gasket - $13.77
Gasket Exhuast - 3 @ $6.42 - $19.26
Oil Filter - $16.04
Oil - 4L @ $13.95 - $55.80
Labour - 4 hrs @ $85.00 - $340.00
Tax - $102.78
Grand Total - $959.24

)
4 hours labour, sounds like a long time to change the sump even given the fact that the exhaust may have to come off.
Not looked to see if is possible to wiggle it out past the exhaust.
 

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Quick question, I'm gonna man up and do the sump gasket replacement myself, do I need to apply gasket sealer? 10nm is very little pressue too right? don't have a torque wrench...
 

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I looked for this in my factory service manual. It doesn't have a task listed specifically for removing the sump/oil pan, but I found a re-install procedure for it in the section on replacing the oil transfer tube.

In that task, it calls out reinstalling with a new gasket, but doesn't mention any sort of additional gasket compound. I don't know how that relates to what people do in the real world, so I will defer to those that have been there/done that.

My manual calls out a torque of 12 nm for the sump bolts. Generally accepted procedure would be to get them all started, then torque them in a cross pattern.

12nm isn't much at all, less than 9 ft. lbs. It's 1/2 what the oil plug is supposed to be torqued to.

If you don't have a highly calibrated elbow, you might consider getting a torque wrench. A small one for that torque value is only going to cost about 30 bucks. If you have an Auto Zone nearby, they will even sign you one out as a loaner tool for free.
 

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Thank you, this helps a lot, also thinking on smoothening out the sump and engine block with fine sandpaper to help achieve an effective seal, prob won't need gasket sealant as the manual failed to mention...
 

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Ok after 7 hours (misc. shopping and spark plugs change included) I succesfully replaced the oil sump gasket!
Note: you don't need to completely remove the radiators just unbolt the frame and engine bracket that holds it and you'll be able to move it around to reach the header's nuts.
Header must be shifted forward and down to access the rear sump bolts.
Aftermath: $40 for gasket thread sealer gasket sealer and torque wrench vs $280 that the mechanic would've charged me also no remaining bolts/nuts so I'd say yeaaayyyyy
 

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