[bowserglow]

After a month or so of changing gaskets, tightening bolts, and reading threads on possible sources, I finally found the oil leak (or at least one). It was coming from the nut that holds the cam chain tensioner blade. It is located on the back side of the head between the intakes(i didn't even know it existed). So, the question...

Can I simply take the nut off of the tensioner blade bolt and replace the crush washer and re-torque, or do I need to release the tension from the blade or something like that?

thanks

 

[bowserglow]

Pic

Here is a picture of the leaking nut.

 

[koifarm]

Whoa!

The manual calls for a special procedure if you slack or remove that nut. Don't have it handy but you have to somehow reset the tensioner when re assembling. You might try just snugging it down a teeny bit and see if that helps.

 

[bowserglow]

Thanks for the reply.

I put the torque wrench on the nut, and it was tighten to spec. Maybe I should loosen it and re-torque it? I pulled the exploded view from BikeBandit. Part #17, 18, 19.

My concern is that if I take off the nut from the end of the blade, then the tensioner pushing on it will push the bolt through the hole, in which case i would have to take out the plunger, and take off the camcover and retrieve it (this is what i am trying to avoid).

What do you guys think?

 

[davidc]

Shudder, shudder! Don't know much about them innards but have heard tell of stuff dropping down into the motor through the chain passage and the resulting "lot of work" to get it out.

 

[Derby Boy]

I'm assuming that you cleaned up the area before you took the picture.
If it were me, I might try a little RTV gasket sealant around the nut/jug if it's just a slow seep. If it is really leaking bad and needs the crush washer changed out, then I think you should invest in a maintenance manual (Haynes or Triumph) and follow the procedure for replacing it. I think fidleing around with it is just a recipe for disaster.

 

[bowserglow]

I have a repair manual, but it only address the area of concern in a sequence of steps in disassembling the engine. And of course, I am trying to address it out of sequence. After looking at the diagram more it appears that the tensioner might actually force the top of the blade(and bolt) to stay in rather than pull out. Eh... I guess we will see.

 

[sweatmachine]

how much oil is leaking from there? Is it a leak, or more of a weep?

If it's minor and just a little weeping, leave it alone.

That nut is the only thing holding the cam chain guide in place. If you take the nut off you risk dropping the cam chain guide out of the hole and down into the engine. It's not a big deal because of the size of the guide it won't fall all the way down to the sump but you'll have to remove the cams to get it back into place. Kinda a pain in the ass.

Derby Boy mentioned smearing some RTV around the nut, that might be a good thing to try if it is a slow leak.

 

[sweatmachine]

then again, there is a copper crush washer under that nut, if you can remove the nut and make sure the cam chain guide doesn't fall out, you can anneal the copper crush washer (get it red hot on the stove top then dunk in water) and reuse it, tighten to spec and it should fix the leak.

be careful.

 

[Baltobonneville]

Maybe you can address it when you do or have done the valve adjustment?

 

[koifarm]

discrepancy

Bowser,
Your picture is not consistent to the parts diagram you are posting.
Your picture shows just one nut.
The parts diagram shows two small bolts holding the adjuster in the block.
Please forward your exact make and year of bike.

 

[koifarm]

Addl info

Page 2-19 Haynes Manual.

"Caution: The tensioner plunger is spring loaded and has a non-return mechanism. Once you start to remove the tensioner mounting bolts, you must remove the tensioner all the way and reset the plunger before tightening the bolts. Failure to do so will result in an over-tensioned cam chain and the tensioner and/or chain and sprockets will be damaged.
Caution: Do not turn the engine with the tensioner removed as the chain could easily jump teeth on the sprocket and the valve timing will be incorrect."
Following that and on the same page, complete instructions for removing and replacing the tensioner.

 

[bowserglow]

The tensioner is not the issue. It is the blade. More specifically the nut that holds the blade part #18. I know all about reseting the tensioner. not a big deal. the hard part is waiting for the new gasket once you take it off.

 

[koifarm]

Aha!

Went out and did a physical inspection on my bike and then re read your post.
I'm now convinced you are looking at the nut and bolt that hold your cam chain tensioner blade on one end and fix it to the inside of the head.
From what the manual states, you may risk dropping the blade down inside the cases by removing that nut. The manual suggests doing that only when you have the heads off in case you do drop it down.
At this point I think I'd leave it alone and not mess with it and unless there was a steady pressurized stream of oil coming out, leave it be.
If you are experienced enough and the oil leak was sufficient enough you could remove the cam chain tensioner assembly, pull it out and reach in with a sturdy piece of wire, go behind the tensioner and pull it outwards thus holding the blade against the block and not allowing it to fall down inside the engine. This would allow you to remove the nut and washer, install a new washer or anneal the existing one and re-assemble the whole thing without risking dropping the tensioner blade inside the engine.

Good luck!!

 

[koifarm]

Addl info

Sorry about my confusion there. Just trying to help out.
Inquiring minds want to know though, how the blazes did you get a camera in there? It was all I could do to get a finger on the darn nut.

 

[bowserglow]

I guess i have a fairly small digital camera. i fished it in there and took a pic. i have also been doing some inspecting using my wife's folding make-up mirror. thanks for the help!

 

[sweatmachine]

From what the manual states, you may risk dropping the blade down inside the cases by removing that nut. The manual suggests doing that only when you have the heads off in case you do drop it down.

well, there's only one head...

besides, you can't remove the head until you remove the cam chain guide blade

 

[bowserglow]

The answer

So, I went ahead and took the nut off of the blade bolt, and it stayed just fine. The crush washer was pretty ate up, and looks to be the reason why its leaking. I tried heating it with a torch, but ended up melting it. I guess its off to Triumph dealer guy tomorrow to see if they have this random crush washer. Thanks for the help. I know this was a lot of fuss over nothing really, but I am stoked that the bike may finally not be leaking oil!

 

[paveklapper]

Seems like I experience the same problem. There is a small pond of red/pink coloured oil in the area below the tensioner cap bolt and a drop of the same oil hanging from the bolt it self. Looks like a smoking gun to me...

However, the bike is brand new and this should be a warranty issue, but there is a looong waiting time in the local Triumph dealers workshop....I think I'll start by checking tourque (20Nm) is OK first...

 

[mikeinva]

its kinda shakey to take the nut off with out removeing the tensioner that hits the other end of the blade ,the tensioner has a rachet on it with a spring that pushes it out if you take the nut off the top and the blade moves much your cam chain will be to tight.If I was going to try it I would take the big nut off on the tensoiner first the spring is under that with spring pressure off the rachet should not move .just dont push the stud into the head,they fit pretty tight in the head though.Order a new washer brass for the top and bottom before you do it.