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Went to buy M-108 yesterday and noticed that they have been replaced by M-108A. Has anyone done a side by side on the two yet?
 

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Went to buy M-108 yesterday and noticed that they have been replaced by M-108A. Has anyone done a side by side on the two yet?
When I went to replace my Purolator L 14615 with a Mobil1 M-108, I noticed the same thing. So I asked the employee and he said it was the same filter, just a name change, for whatever reason. I also did some more research on the net, came up with the same results.

Oh by the way, Purolator PL/L 14615 no longer work on a Bonneville. Must have changed in the recent past.
 

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It would seem that Triumph is still using the same filter for the water cooled bikes, click on "what it fits": https://www.triumphestore.com/p/Triumph__/Oil-Filter--OES/59763168/T1218001.html

I'm surprised, I'd have assumed the WC filter would have extra sensors so it could communicate with the ECU ;)

I just use the Triumph filters now. Got a couple in the mail just yesterday along with some other parts. They are no more expensive than the M1-108, and I'm tired of worrying about some change in design in the alternatives causing me grief.
Where do you order filters from, BonnieBlack?
 

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Discussion Starter #66
I only order them online as an add-on if I'm ordering something else. Not worth paying shipping on filters alone, but if I order from somewhere like Hermys (https://www.triumphestore.com) it's usually the same shipping cost with or without the filters.

Or I grab a couple when I go by my dealer if I'm out.

I do three oil changes a year between my bike and wife's, so I try and keep "inventory" on-hand :)




I have a M1-108 at home. Shoot, I might buy a M1-108A after work and take some pictures. Maybe open them up? Not to get you all too excited about the prospect, but it could happen. We all have our niches. There are guys around here that can rebuild motors. I can take pictures of filters. We all pitch in where we can ;)
 

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So I'm in the middle of an oil change, with a Mobil filter -- and forgot to fill the filter with oil before I put it on! I only remembered after starting to refill the crankcase. Added one quart so far. Is this a big deal? Worth draining out the 1 quart of new oil and taking the filter off again to fill it?
 

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My guess is that you can take the filter off without any spillage. With one quart in the level can't be high enough that it's gotten up to the filter. Could be the level is below the oil filter even with 4 quarts in.

Don't know if it's important or not. If it were me ... I'd pull the filter off and fill it. I'm anal that way. But I am willing to personally guarantee you that you will not notice any problems if you don't pre-fill the filter. Or your money back.

On my Surbaru pre-filling the filter is a pain. Because the filter is on top of the engine and attached base plate down. So when I pre-fill then install the filter the oil spills back out all over the engine and it's a big mess. I may stop pre-filling when working of the Forester.

:)
 

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M1-108 vs M1-108A

I have each of these filters in hand. It is very exciting.

Here is the packaging. After careful inspection, I believe it is the packaging that differentiates these products.

Note the newer packaging is Green!

20180507_EPL6_0002.JPG


On the back, they use the same picture to show the internals

20180507_EPL6_0001-2.JPG


The biggest difference, and the one that probably required the additional "A" is the claim on the new boxes that the filter is good for 20,000 miles. The old boxes only claimed 15,000 miles.

20180507_EPL6_0010.JPG

20180507_EPL6_0011.JPG

The old filter had the caveat of "if you use fully synthetic oil". The new ones have the caveat "when used engine oil designed for longer oil change intervals."



I know, I know, the excitement is killing you. Open the boxes already! Well, to prove I'm cooler even than the 1960's Adam West Batman series, I'm not going to make you wait until next week (same bat-time, same bat-channel). I'm doing it right now!

The base plates are identical.

20180507_EPL6_0005.JPG


Looking inside the filters, the visible internals are identical. The outer case is identical. The markings on the top are even very similar.

20180507_EPL6_0007.JPG



Sure the heck looks like the identical filter to the eye balls. The packaging claims that the new ones have an "enhanced nitrile gasket", and there are different color codings on the edges of the gaskets, although the appear the same visually otherwise. The packaging also claims a "durable anti-drain valve" while the old packaging says "Bypass valve system (where required)"

20180507_EPL6_0005-2.JPG



The new filter is a gram heavier.

20180507_EPL6_0008.JPG

20180507_EPL6_0009.JPG




So that's what I got. I was thinking about cutting them open. But that's a $30 dollar experiment that doesn't seem worth it. Maybe I'll start a Go Fund Me campaign for it.

So, M1-108/M1-108A is still the filter I use if I can't lay my hand on an OEM one easily.
 

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Excellent, suspenseful bit of work there, BB. Felt like I was, indeed, watching an episode of Batman. All you needed was a villain (a leaking K&N?) with the camera held sideways and a few Kapows! and Bams!.

BTW, I posted this question on my other thread in general twins talk, but I'll ask you here, too. After my oil and filter change, my oil level mysteriously went from perfectly between the lines on the case to well above the lines after a one-hour ride. I followed the proper procedure: initially just filling until I see the level in the window, starting the bike and idling for 30 seconds, topping up to the proper level, then going for my ride.

Any idea how that happens? And is it worth trying to siphon some out? It's well above the top line, but still within the sight glass.
 

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Any idea how that happens? And is it worth trying to siphon some out? It's well above the top line, but still within the sight glass.
Answered you over there. But specific to your last paragraph: if I can see the top of the oil level in the sight glass (bike upright of course) with engine cold I don't worry about it.
 

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Should also point out my local Canadian Tire store has plenty of M1-108's on the shelf. No sign of the 108-A.
 

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Damn I wish I’d read this whole thread before buying and installing a Bosch 3300 filter on my Bonnie. Got the puddle and wasted a quart of pricey Castrol RS oil. Went to the Mobil-1 filter. I’ve been using the Bosch 3300 without incident on my Thunderbird for years. Must have a different filter base.
 

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The WIX heritage is farm tractors. They usually have lots more filtering material than competing brands. Cut one open and compare to a FRAM and you will be shocked.

I installed a WIX 51358 on a 2010 Bonnie SE this weekend and it works fine. Its also tucked up in there like Triumph intended.

I have been, for the last 7 years or so, using WIX on my Harley and my Jeep (which sees a lot of heavy duty rock crawling every year) and I have never had a problem.

My filter was made in Gastonia, NC.
 

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As a new owner of an older America (2003 790), has anyone had experience with using K&P Engineering cleanable oil filters?
They have filters to suit most triumphs. For the record I am not associated with this company but I have used one of their cleanable oil filters on my Sportster for years and had no trouble at all. About $140 to buy but that's the last filter I've bought for it. The one in the picture also has a relocation housing to get the filter out in the breeze for more cooling but you get the idea.

Cheers, Will
 

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About $140 to buy but that's the last filter I've bought for it.
I go through 2 filters a year, at around $14 each. So it would take me 5 years just to break even. And I kinda like the disposable filter idea instead of washing out a reusable one. Sounds like a fun gadget for some, but not for me.
 

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True, and that would be one of the disadvantages of this filter if I am being honest.

It has advantages for me though when coupled with the remote housing location as firstly I do not have to fit a separate oil cooler for the summer (up to 40 degrees Celsius here) and secondly for ease of filter changing. Where HD have thoughtfully placed the standard filter makes changing it a messy affair with having to clean oil off the front of the engine in hard to reach places. Now I can just spin it off over a drain tray.

Also I can inspect what the filter catches (bits of metal etc) easily without cutting a paper filter open and it has a rare earth magnet in it to hold any of those naughty bits of metal.

Cheers, Will
 

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The WIX heritage is farm tractors. They usually have lots more filtering material than competing brands. Cut one open and compare to a FRAM and you will be shocked.

I installed a WIX 51358 on a 2010 Bonnie SE this weekend and it works fine. Its also tucked up in there like Triumph intended.

I have been, for the last 7 years or so, using WIX on my Harley and my Jeep (which sees a lot of heavy duty rock crawling every year) and I have never had a problem.

My filter was made in Gastonia, NC.

I too can vouch for WIX 51358 as fitted one to my Bonnie last weekend. fits perfectly and no leaks.
tech specs are here https://www.filtermax.com.au/51358.html



and like Pylot7 I have been using them on my Jeep and other vehicles for years


for Aussies you can purchase WIX filters here online https://www.filtermax.com.au/


they supply comparable filters dollars cheaper than most auto stores and freight is usually a flat rate. I usually buy a "lot" comprising of oil, fuel and air filters to stock up for our cars and bike
 

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Just to say this size and configuration filter is perhaps the most popular in the world. If you cross reference any of those numbers the list is massive. These fit my FZ 09/FZ07/ NC700X and all my Hinckley Triumphs I have owned.
 

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I too can vouch for WIX 51358 as fitted one to my Bonnie last weekend. fits perfectly and no leaks.
tech specs are here https://www.filtermax.com.au/51358.html



and like Pylot7 I have been using them on my Jeep and other vehicles for years


for Aussies you can purchase WIX filters here online https://www.filtermax.com.au/


they supply comparable filters dollars cheaper than most auto stores and freight is usually a flat rate. I usually buy a "lot" comprising of oil, fuel and air filters to stock up for our cars and bike
Filtermax are cheap but they want $15 to post it"...... I understand why you buy in bulk :)
 
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