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Sorry to ask this dumb question, but I am approaching 500 mile oil change and I'm shocked at the location of the filter. how the $&@"!? do you get to the thing to get it off? holy cripes i can't possibly get a wrench around that thing. there's a lot of stuff in the way!
 

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Simple....a cap wrench. Makes it a snap. Has a hole for your ratchet on the end. Heres an example, tho not the correct size. I can't recall the size but you can find out yourself.... http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-76-mm-dia-oil-filter-B-cap-wrench?itemIdentifier=153158

Or you can use K&N filters which have a bolt head on the end so you can use a regular socket wrench.... http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=kn-303

Again, not the exact filter but you can find out via google. Or fasteddysports.com i believe has the K&N, but not 100% sure.
 

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Wow thanks. yes i have the k and n replacement filter and i wondered why the heck the stock filters are not similarly designed. anyway i never used a cap wrench but it looks easy enough. dang that's a tight spot for the filter.
many thanks!
 

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Yeah, it's truly a mystery why ALL filters don't have that. Well, maybe not a mystery....i imagine they see it as insurance that they can sell a trillion cap wrenches. But i would surely buy a filter with that before one w/o it, all else being equal.
 

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well thanks again. i bought a cap wrench for about 6 bucks and saved myself tons of headache! wish i would have known about those 20 years ago! good gravy amazing how simple it made that chore.
i changed the oil at 425 miles. people are so punctilious about maintenance schedules on this forum so i bet someone would say i did it too soon and now my bike is ruined! oh well.
what exactly "breaks in" during the "break-in period"?
and can I goose the engine now or do i need to wait for another 500 miles?
 

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There are a lot of respectable mechanics that will tell you break it in by riding it hard. So theres really no way to know who's right. The way i do it is to go by 2 simple rules that likely ARE correct and if not certainly won't do any harm. 1)-don't ride at a given speed for long. Keep varying the speed as you ride 2)-don't rev it to redline of close.

otherwise just ride it as normal. Changing the oil at 425 or even sooner is good, but then you should replace it with more break in oil, not synthetic. i was told by my mech that break in oil is a regular non synthetic but that has no friction modifiers in it. Allows the engine to wear enough in that 600 mile period to be considered broken in. You're mainly breaking in the rings, and the better they seal the better the bike will run and last w/o issues. I would not have changed it sooner than 600 unless you replaced it with more break in oil tho. As long as you use that you can change it as much as you like for the 600 mile break in period. Some say change it after 50 miles because most of the metallic particles it sheds when new will be in the oil by then. But that i think is being pretty anal about it.

So it's your call, but if i were you i'd put break in oil back in it till at least 600 or 600 plus whatever mileage you put on it with synth in it. I went to 700 on mine.
 

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well thanks again. i bought a cap wrench for about 6 bucks and saved myself tons of headache! wish i would have known about those 20 years ago! good gravy amazing how simple it made that chore.
i changed the oil at 425 miles. people are so punctilious about maintenance schedules on this forum so i bet someone would say i did it too soon and now my bike is ruined! oh well.
what exactly "breaks in" during the "break-in period"?
and can I goose the engine now or do i need to wait for another 500 miles?
I need a cap wrench too

Can you please tell me what size to buy

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #8
OEM size "F" cap wrench
part # 25404
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Autozone had 'em near the oil shelves
 

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If i recall i found the right one by going to a auto parts and taking a bosch 3300 filter (which fits triumphs)out of it's box and trying filter cap wrenches till i found the one that fits.
By the way, i would recommend not using auto filters as many do. I used to till i read about how a car's oil pressure is different than a bikes, so thier bypass valve has a different tension. Not good. I went back to triumph or K&N filters.
 

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I don't know what all the fuss is about. At least you can SEE this filter while working on it. How many cars have filters buried so well you can either see it or touch, but not both at the same time? The T-Bird is about a three on a scale of one to ten for difficulty.
I have two or three cap wrenches, none of which are the right size. A cheapie Harbor Freight strap wrench works just fine.
 

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I don't know what all the fuss is about. At least you can SEE this filter while working on it. How many cars have filters buried so well you can either see it or touch, but not both at the same time? The T-Bird is about a three on a scale of one to ten for difficulty.
You must have the hands of a Chinese gynecologist ;)
 

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I haven't personally changed the oil filter in my LT until today but I got the honda tool and gave it a go. Given that there is no room to fit a torque wrench I just screwed the new filter on by hand until it touched the casing and then twisted it about 3/4 with a wrench.

I've changed plenty of oil filters on other vehicles and normally try and put some oil in the filter before installing. This is (I think) impossible on the Tbird because you basically have to wiggle it past the tubes and frame sideways to engage the thread.

If I fill the sump with the correct amount of oil will it gradually seep into the filter or should I just fire it up & let the pump do it?
 
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