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Discussion Starter #1
I'm about to take the bike off the road for the winter (2011 Bonneville SE) so I'm going to do a few jobs on her, one of them is remove the Oil Cooler and repaint it. I have two questions that some of you chaps may be able to advise on.

Question 1: If I leave the bike on the centre stand for a few days will the oil in the cooler drain back to the sump or is there some sort of valve arrangement that I need to be aware of? I don't want oil all over the place when I start undoing the banjo bolts!

Question 2: What would be the best product to use to repaint the cooler? I live in the UK so the product needs to be available here - I am thinking JP1, do any of you guys have any experience using this product for this application?

Any advice/tips would be most welcome.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Good questions. I don’t know the answer to either, but I’m planning to do much the same to my Scrambler during the winter break so I’ll look forward to the responses.
Good fortune,
Alan


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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i would like to know too for my 2012 t100 if its easy to remove, as Eric say no or min.spillage. however i do not think its possible given spray paint on the closely knitted fins will do more harm than cool it... maybe the side is the only area paint-able. i could b wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i would like to know too for my 2012 t100 if its easy to remove, as Eric say no or min.spillage. however i do not think its possible given spray paint on the closely knitted fins will do more harm than cool it... maybe the side is the only area paint-able. i could b wrong.
I was thinking the same re cooling fins but this is what I plan to do. Get the cooler as clean as possible and remove all loose paint from top, bottom and sides then rub down with wet and dry. mask off the centre finned area and spray the sides as normal. once I'm happy with the sides, top and bottom mask them off then spray the fins and used compressed air to push the paint through the matrix so it doesn't build up on the front and back or clog the gaps... that's the plan anyway and will probably change once I start
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I've repainted a couple of oil coolers with JP1 Fast Satin Black, it goes on well and if done wiith care, looks like new. I'm sure my Bonnie was faster afterwards as well. :wink2:
Thanks for the reply PieMan,

What is the cooler like to get off? It looks like I'll have to remove the LH down pipe to get the cooler clear of the bike. Did you notice if the cooler was holding oil? I've been looking at PJ1's Fast Black so this will probably be my choice unless someone has any experience with other products they could recommend.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Another idea, paint the oil cooler when you are doing a oil change. That way the oil will already be drained and, leaks become a mute point...
I had thought about that and will probably do this as part of the maintenance I have planned, I was just thinking on whether the oil cooler would hold oil even after the oil had been dropped out.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
When applying force to the banjo bolts avoid damage by using two spanners on the fitting using the hexagons provided. The cooler is made of thin, soft metal and can distort if too much pressure is applied to the fittings:



Thanks for that Forchetto, as always very useful information from your good self. That has just stopped me from killing the cooler. I probably would have gone at the banjo bolt with one spanner. I doff my cap to you sir!
 

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Thanks for the reply PieMan,

What is the cooler like to get off? It looks like I'll have to remove the LH down pipe to get the cooler clear of the bike. Did you notice if the cooler was holding oil?
The oil usually drains down so not much is left in the cooler, but you will get some come out as you remove it. It's most probably easier to remove one header pipe for access, but if you do, replace the copper header to cylinder head gasket as they don't seal well twice.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The oil usually drains down so not much is left in the cooler, but you will get some come out as you remove it. It's most probably easier to remove one header pipe for access, but if you do, replace the copper header to cylinder head gasket as they don't seal well twice.
Thanks Mike, I'll bear that in mind. Did you replace the copper washers on the Banjo bolts or just use the ones you took off? the reason I ask is I'm not sure of their availability, I don't want to be paying daft money at a main agents if I can get away with it. I know you can re annealed copper washers is there any point doing this?
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I’ve been to get the PJ1 and the guy in the shop said he’d be able to match me some copper washers if I bring one in. I’m good to go and with a bit of luck I’ll get the cooler off this weekend. I’m a bit worried though, the bloke in the motorcycle spares place said he wouldn’t risk removing it and would spray it in situ. He said that there is a good chance I’ll break the cooler where the banjo couplings go so my next post may be: ‘where can I get a replacement oil cooler’

Thanks for the help and info. I'll post a picture when it's done.

Smoke me a kipper I’ll be back for breakfast :)
 

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I’ve been to get the PJ1 and the guy in the shop said he’d be able to match me some copper washers if I bring one in.

As @PieMan says, the copper washers do not seal well once used. I think the reason is mainly because they're very narrow, just 1.8 mm at the sealing face, and any imperfections in the surface ruins them. I've taken a photo of one with data such as the part number, dimensions, etc, here:


 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks Forchetto, I picked 4 up yesterday but they are slightly wider maybe 2mm rather the the standard 1.8mm. Hopefully there shouldn’t be a problem however the info in you last post is very welcome should I need to pick some up from the dealers. I managed to get the cooler off yesterday and have started cleaning all the flaking paint of. The only casualty so far is the rubber boot on the oil temperature sensor having split. It was quite soft, I don’t think putting WD40 on it has helped but I’ll glue it up and hopefully it will be right. I’d get a new one but I bet it will come as one unit with the oil temperature sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I’ve checked and the copper washers won’t fit. They are 3mm wide and there is a recess where the washers go so only one of 1.8mm wide will do! I’ve ordered 5 from the main agents and a sealing ring for the header I removed. I’ve put 3 coats of the USA variant of PJ1 Satin Fast Black on and it looks fantastic drying in the garage.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
This is the fruit of my labours over the last week or so.

I decided to fit a SquareDeals Oil Cooler Guard too and I think it looks fantastic even if I do say so myself.

I've still got to fill her with oil and check for leaks but that is just a formality.. Thanks to everyone who contributed.
 

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