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can anyone direct me to a link on doing a step by step oil change on a 09 Bonneville T100 ? I figure I will eventually need some directon on basic maintenance to save some money. Cheers !
oil change
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I don't think we have one. Your best bet is the OEM or Haynes manual - they are very good at guiding you through that process.
If you want to get clued in on your own maintenance you MUST get one or the other - or both.
I suggest starting with the Haynes. Have a look at that, and if you have questions ask away. It is good that you want to do your own maintenance - it will save you money, you willlearn more about your bike and it will ultimately be kept in better shape.
The haynes only goes up to 07, but for all mechanical stuff this will work well enough. Worry about EFI later!
If you want to get clued in on your own maintenance you MUST get one or the other - or both.
I suggest starting with the Haynes. Have a look at that, and if you have questions ask away. It is good that you want to do your own maintenance - it will save you money, you willlearn more about your bike and it will ultimately be kept in better shape.
The haynes only goes up to 07, but for all mechanical stuff this will work well enough. Worry about EFI later!
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11,276 Posts
Oil change
Most people like to have the engine warm (not hot), to help the oil drain. Put on some disposable rubber gloves. Remove oil filler cap, remove drain bolt, drain oil, retrieve drain bolt and washer from oil drain pan.
Unscrew oil filter, empty it in the drain pan. You should be able to unscrew the filter by hand; if not, you'll have to apply tools and force to it. Wipe off around the oil filter seal area on the sump with a rag or paper towel.
Fill the new filter with fresh oil. Do this a few times, as it will sink in slowly. Spread a bit of oil on the seal and screw it in until the seal contacts the sump. Then add 3/4 of a turn, by hand.
Wipe off around the drain bolt area and clean off the drain bolt and washer. Re-install the drain bolt and crush washer; if you have a new washer, use it. Make it snug, slightly tight, but don't over-tighten it. Torque spec is 25NM if you have a torque wrench.
Pour in not more than 3.5 quarts of oil, a clean funnel and a steady hand is helpful. Let it settle and check the level. It should be no higher than the middle of the sight glass. Replace the oil filler cap. Remember, it's easier to add oil than to remove it.
Dispose of your old oil in a responsible manner, i.e. take it to the recycling center or ask a service place to take it. Do not dump it in a storm drain or in the ground.
Most people like to have the engine warm (not hot), to help the oil drain. Put on some disposable rubber gloves. Remove oil filler cap, remove drain bolt, drain oil, retrieve drain bolt and washer from oil drain pan.
Unscrew oil filter, empty it in the drain pan. You should be able to unscrew the filter by hand; if not, you'll have to apply tools and force to it. Wipe off around the oil filter seal area on the sump with a rag or paper towel.
Fill the new filter with fresh oil. Do this a few times, as it will sink in slowly. Spread a bit of oil on the seal and screw it in until the seal contacts the sump. Then add 3/4 of a turn, by hand.
Wipe off around the drain bolt area and clean off the drain bolt and washer. Re-install the drain bolt and crush washer; if you have a new washer, use it. Make it snug, slightly tight, but don't over-tighten it. Torque spec is 25NM if you have a torque wrench.
Pour in not more than 3.5 quarts of oil, a clean funnel and a steady hand is helpful. Let it settle and check the level. It should be no higher than the middle of the sight glass. Replace the oil filler cap. Remember, it's easier to add oil than to remove it.
Dispose of your old oil in a responsible manner, i.e. take it to the recycling center or ask a service place to take it. Do not dump it in a storm drain or in the ground.
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Well written Marty!
Just a minor note - even though I tighten my oil filters correctly, I can NEVER get them off by hand. Go figure. I just use a big pair of channel locks to get them off.
Talk about a nasty method! Since I'm done with the oil filter at that point, I don't really care - just be carfeul not to scrape / scratch / mar anything as you do it.
The method Marty describes is an excellent one for putting the new filter on.
Just a minor note - even though I tighten my oil filters correctly, I can NEVER get them off by hand. Go figure. I just use a big pair of channel locks to get them off.
Talk about a nasty method! Since I'm done with the oil filter at that point, I don't really care - just be carfeul not to scrape / scratch / mar anything as you do it.The method Marty describes is an excellent one for putting the new filter on.
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722 Posts
When I changed my oil, I used a piece of plastic clothesline to get the old one off.Well written Marty!
Just a minor note - even though I tighten my oil filters correctly, I can NEVER get them off by hand. Go figure. I just use a big pair of channel locks to get them off.
The method Marty describes is an excellent one for putting the new filter on.
I tied a loop knot in one end and slipped it over the filter so that the noose was pulling back against itself counter-clockwise and just pulled on it until the filter began to turn.
I have used this method in the past on auto filters using an old belt.
Try it. It works great if you don't have a proper tool for it.
I installed a K&N chrome filter. There are no removal issues with them. All K&N's have a 17mm nut welded on the bottom for easy removal. They make excellent products IMHO.
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11,276 Posts
I've been able to get my oil filters off this bike by hand up to now. (That probably just jinxed my next oil change.)
One time, I found the filter slightly loose in the middle of the season, it's good that I checked. I just hand-tightened it and it was fine. It's a good idea to reach down there and check it now and then.
Other options for removing the filter: A properly-fitting external oil filter wrench from the auto parts store; you'll have to figure out which one you need for the filter you have.
And the mother of all removal techniques: Hammer a big old screwdriver through the filter and out the other side, then use it as a lever to loosen it--make sure to allow some clearance to pull the screwdriver--then remove and turn the filter out by hand. It's messy but it works; hopefully it won't come to that.
One time, I found the filter slightly loose in the middle of the season, it's good that I checked. I just hand-tightened it and it was fine. It's a good idea to reach down there and check it now and then.
Other options for removing the filter: A properly-fitting external oil filter wrench from the auto parts store; you'll have to figure out which one you need for the filter you have.
And the mother of all removal techniques: Hammer a big old screwdriver through the filter and out the other side, then use it as a lever to loosen it--make sure to allow some clearance to pull the screwdriver--then remove and turn the filter out by hand. It's messy but it works; hopefully it won't come to that.
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2,219 Posts
By far, the easiest way with the least amount of drama to remove your filter.
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8,211 Posts
Everytime I have picked up the bike from the dealer I can't get the bloody filter off without a screw driver through it. Way over tight.
I do all my oil changes now and I give the bike a thorough once over when I do. The filter is a tight hand tight but I can always get it off when do the next oil change. I use WIX/NAPA 1358 filters and they work perfectly.
I do all my oil changes now and I give the bike a thorough once over when I do. The filter is a tight hand tight but I can always get it off when do the next oil change. I use WIX/NAPA 1358 filters and they work perfectly.
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350 Posts
just wondering if doing my own oil changes while the 2 year warranty is still in effect is wise or not.
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1,016 Posts
why wouldn't it be wise?! it would be unwise to take it to the dealer and spend way more on something you can do at home. an oil change is one of the easiest things to do, as almost anyone with half a brain can perform. i would just keep a log book noting when you performed the oil change and keep the reciepts for the oil and filter in the book. as long as the oil that meets the specs that triumph recommends you are covered under the warranty.
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350 Posts
my dealer says the first oil change at 1000km is an important one, and I think it is also a general inspection of the bike. The 2nd one is where they change over to synthetic oil. After that point, I will do it myself.
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8,211 Posts
Use the right oil that meets the Jaso certification and you will not have any problem. Its wise to do it yourself and to be familiar with your bike.
Do the oil change and check your chain, clean it up, lube it up and check anything else.
Get a few bottles of your favorite brew, put on some of your favorite tunes and make an afternoon out of it.
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747 Posts
Neek,
If you have a low-profile oil drain pan- it's a cinch. I tried using the one I use for automotive work and it wouldn't fit under the Bonnie.
After breaking both the drain plug bolt loose and the oil filter, I stuck a shim under the kickstand to obtain a more level attitude on the machine. After all the oil's out, put 'er back on the stand, tighten the drain bolt and new filter and begin adding oil.
'08 T-100,
I like your improvised oil filter wrench idea and have added it to my list of good ideas and dirty tricks . Thanks!
If you have a low-profile oil drain pan- it's a cinch. I tried using the one I use for automotive work and it wouldn't fit under the Bonnie.
After breaking both the drain plug bolt loose and the oil filter, I stuck a shim under the kickstand to obtain a more level attitude on the machine. After all the oil's out, put 'er back on the stand, tighten the drain bolt and new filter and begin adding oil.
'08 T-100,
I like your improvised oil filter wrench idea and have added it to my list of good ideas and dirty tricks . Thanks!
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135 Posts
small side note... if you ocassionally dont pay attention (like me) and happen to have a Speedmaster (or America... not sure about the rest of the models) DO NOT go to the auto store, proudly remembering that a Honda Element filter will fit your bike, and get the longer oil filter because you have a habit of overfilling yer oil anyway. You'll get it home, put it on, and discover yer oil filter now dangles precariously 2 inches below yer frame rails. And you will tap it within a week while going over a bump, a dip in the road, or both.
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722 Posts
Spring for a Triumph center stand. The cost is waaay less than the grief you will incur without it.
IMHO, they should be a stock item.But, alas they are not.
You will not have buyers remorse with this add-on.
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818 Posts
Its boring when you lay your hard earned cash to get a brand new Bonnie and find you can change the oil yourself-Service on my Bonnie has been 100 percent England-with people going outside their job description to quell my fears ,Hello
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