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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

Looking for some of your brilliant guidance with my 2014 Bonnie.
We had the dealer fit a set of Arrow 2 into 1 pipes late last year and everything seemed great.
Last month, bike became sluggish, and fuel usage went through the roof - full tank in less than 130kms!!!
Dropped it back and they said was a tune issue, have fixed it up all sorted.
Rode bike around and then home that afternoon, awesome!
Next morning early in the cold, rode like an unpredictable dog... As soon as the weather was warm again perfect!
Dealer suggested that we should get some O2 sensor eliminators from Danmoto and some block offs for the pipes.
Ordered the parts, as well as the AI removal kit from Triumph Performance parts in Melbourne, The AI removal all went well seems fine.
Plugged in the Danmoto O2 eliminators and instantly the Engine light is on, but the bike is running 1000% improvement.
Dealer is telling me that they cant simply disable the O2 sensors in the ECU, even though I read this is a better option than using the O2 eliminators?
So Im left with why is the Engine warning going on? Is one of the new elimators faulty and how could I check and can the ECU be programmed or not?!
:|
 

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The dealer may not be able to "legally" disable o2 sensor in the tune, but I know for a fact that you can disable the MIL and erase the error codes for it with Tune ECU
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The dealer may not be able to "legally" disable o2 sensor in the tune, but I know for a fact that you can disable the MIL and erase the error codes for it with Tune ECU
Ah, that could explain some of it, but in which case wouldnt advising me to get the eliminators be a legal issue as well? I guess at the moment I need to see what they are going to sort out or if I am going to have to try and get a cable and the Tune ECU and do it myself...
 

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I'd guess they must have turned on the ignition switch after unplugging the O2 sensors but before the eliminators were fitted. The ECU would instantly detect the missing sensors and turned the light on.

Once they're fitted and if they're the correct part, the ECU will be "fooled" into believing the sensors are now OK and the light should go off by itself after 3 cold/hot cycles of the engine.

A cycle is defined as:

A single warm-up cycle is deemed to have taken place when the following criteria have been met:

* The coolant or, in the case of the Bonnies, the oil temperature, must be raised to 72ºC [162ºF] or more.

* The coolant or oil temperature must have risen by 23ºC [74ºF] or more from its start temperature, when 72ºC [162ºF] is reached.

* A controlled power-down sequence must take place [i.e. shutting off using the ignition switch.”


In practice just using it normally for 2-3 days will do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the tip on trying to clear the light.
I fitted the O2 eliminators myself and the bike was off the entire time with the keys out until after they were installed.
My sneaking suspicion is that one of the eliminators is no good. Might be yet another trip down to the dealer to get them to clear the light and check the error might prove my theory and or what the problem is...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ah interesting. They has one resistor in the top reading 330ohms. I asked about this and they said that the 2nd isn't needed...
 

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True, some eliminators only have one resistor. It'll be connected to the sensor heater wires, the Brown/Pink and White wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You have just fully answered the question for me!
The resistor on these plugs is only connecting to the pink/black and blue/black wires!!!
 

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That's it I think. The ECU looks for the presence of the internal heaters in the sensors rather than the actual voltage signal output, at least to operate the check light.
 

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Forchetto, I'm having the same issue. Had the dealer shut off the O2 and the AI, I've had the AI removed for some time. After the dealer "shut it off, I had better performance, but hadn't physically removed the sensors yet. Just removed the sensors using the British Customs plugs and now the check engine light is on. Should it go off after the cycles you described, or do I need the resistors you posted?
 

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By British Customs plugs , do you mean the threaded plugs that fit in the downpipes instead of the sensors?

If so, you'll also need either the 330 Ohm resistors across the sensor heater wires, the Brown/Pink and White wires or the sensor check engine light function cancelled using software such as TuneECU.
 

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By British Customs plugs , do you mean the threaded plugs that fit in the downpipes instead of the sensors?

If so, you'll also need either the 330 Ohm resistors across the sensor heater wires, the Brown/Pink and White wires or the sensor check engine light function cancelled using software such as TuneECU.

Thanks Forchetto, Yes, the BC threaded plugs. Does someone make the resistor pictured above? Where can I buy it? I'm an Apple guy, and the TuneECU software is PC only.
 

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Hobby electronics shops will have the resistors but then you'll need some sort of terminals to match the vacated O2 sensor connectors, heat-shrink sleeving to seal off, etc. Here's my thread on O2 disabling, done years ago before software was available:

http://www.triumphrat.net/air-cooled-twins-technical-talk/143011-o2-sensor-elimination-and-bypass.html

The easiest way is to obtain some ready-made plug and play connectors that come complete with the resistors. Once fitted the MIL light will remain ON for a further 3 cold/hot cycles and then go off by itself. A search for Bonneville O2 sensor eliminators should turn up lots of devices, like this one from British customs:

http://www.british-customs.com/triumph-dynojet-o2-sensor-eliminator-plug.html

Check out a few though, vastly different prices for the same component, like these ones from Lossa engineering which are obviously exactly the same as the above, but cost a lot more...:

http://www.lossaengineering.com/products/triumph-bonneville-thruxton-dynojet-o2-sensor-eliminator-plugs-pair
 

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I'm an Apple guy too Joe, and have been since they invented computers, but it's worth getting a copy of Windows and installing it on your Mac via BootCamp. That way you can just re-boot the computer and it becomes a hideous Windows PC, but it gives you access to TuneECU and any other Windows only software you might fancy.

Incidentally, I use VMWare's 'Fusion' as well which allows you to have both operating systems running at the same time but, although it will run TuneECU it wont connect to the bike in that mode. I have to reboot with Windows only to get it to connect.
 

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I would try to troubleshoot the actual problem rather than just eliminate the O2 sensors. Closed loop air/fuel ratio control is one of the benefits of EFI.
 

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I'm an Apple guy too Joe, and have been since they invented computers, but it's worth getting a copy of Windows and installing it on your Mac via BootCamp. That way you can just re-boot the computer and it becomes a hideous Windows PC, but it gives you access to TuneECU and any other Windows only software you might fancy.

Incidentally, I use VMWare's 'Fusion' as well which allows you to have both operating systems running at the same time but, although it will run TuneECU it wont connect to the bike in that mode. I have to reboot with Windows only to get it to connect.
Thanks Patrckcol, I've used both Parallels and Bootcamp on my mac before, I just don't have the stomach to reconfigure my Mac for this one application. I'm going the Dynojet Eliminator plug route for now. If I keep tinkering, as I probably will, I may have to get a cheap PC dedicated to the task.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Forchetto, thanks for all the help.
So, outcome was that the danmoto plugs dont work as they are only having the resistor over the sensor wire and not the heater - which definately seems the MIL warning issue.
After having the boys at work knock up a 'repalcement' from your instructions we seem all good.
Im still not 100% happy with the tune that on it, so I want to play with that a little.
Can anyone recommend which cable to buy in AUS for the TuneECU software? There are so many variants and big price variants too!

Thanks again guys for all the help.

Next project once this is running nicer is to wrap the pipes!
 
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