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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So today is the day I waited for all week - new back tire!!! This is my first rear tire change off factory so I warn the shop about the belt issue with alignment and squeaking and they just kinda nod and say yea yea, the guys on the forum aren't mechanics, blah blah.

5 miles from the shop I come to a stop sign and I can hear it squeaking from 35mph on down to about 10mph where it fades out. Call them up - sure bring it by - I bring it by and it will NOT squeak in their parking lot, so I go ride around - nope. Pull in and tell them it's squeaking anyway - won't squeak for them. So I leave and it starts squeaking again - as I ride it up to the parking space it squeaks. By the time they test the bike, no squeak...but they clean and dress the belt anyway - and I leave - no squeak thru town - go 5 miles to a stop and squeak squeak at 35 mph again.

Now I'm home and stuck with it for what was supposed to be a wonderful weekend of riding on this holiday weekend. This squeak sounds like a little red wagon with a wobbly rusty wheel. A homelss bum with a rusted out shopping cart with a floppy wheel. I'm actually getting looks from motorists as I roll up to a stop and trust me, it's not because of the nifty Triumph badge on the tank either. So help me out here - is this a safety issue? Can I ride this weekend? Is there anything I can do at home to make this better?

And Daz when you read this you need to go to your shop buddy and steal that tool and Fed-ex it to me...I'll PM you my shipping info! ;)
 

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Don't worry about it. Take your ride and enjoy yourself ! The squeak happens even with the tension about right and wheel aligned correctly. Then it's mysteriously go away. I've learned it's just the way it is and that it can do that even when everything is at least close to perfect. Just make sure it's not insanely loose or tight.

As to alignment, i found a good way to do this. There are 2 holes n the swingarm near the pivot point on each side. Actually theres 2 on the left and on the right theres also 2 but one is filled with the mounting dealie the belt guard screws onto. You can use these holes to measure from the center of the axl on each side. One the left one of the holes has a chrome ring in it. The other hole is just black. Use the black one. on the right side like i said theres only one hole because the one with the chrome ring is filled with the guard mount. So take some string or wire etc, something that won't stretch when you lightly pull it tight. Find a pencil or something that will fit in the hole and tie the string around it. Pull the string in the shorted path to the axl center then mark it. Do that on the other side and adjust the wheel till they match lengthwise. It works very well and you will have the wheel aligned very close. It matched the alignment of how it was when i got it back from mickey after he installed the warranty belt and adjusted it.

Oh, and by the way.....that has become the standard line for EVERY SINGLE dealer, factory rep, or anyone in the triumph food chain when you mention internet forums. They tell you all that stuff is BS. Meanwhile i'm looking at pics that are absolute proof or other reasons i know i can believe. hell, to be blunt i have gotten FAR greater info from the forums than any of the mechs or reps i have talked to, and thats a dead on FACT. I've had mechs tell me you can't believe anyone on the forums because they all BS and lie ! Pisses me off. You can tell them about the compression release issue and they'll tell you thats BS, yet there have been PICTURES of the frucking things broken posted on the forums ! They're idiots. I trust dealers about as much as i trusted osama bin laden.
 

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By the way, i just realized you said it squeaks as you roll to a stop. If thats the case it's not the belt ! But i think i may know what it is. They maybe didn't grease the works up when they replaced the wheel. Mine did the same thing squeaking even barely rolling and it was a lack of grease in the axl/spacer area. I sprayed WD40 all in there on both sides of the spacer on the pulley side and it went away 100%. Now, i did that to see if thats what it was, not as a fix ! It started again a few weeks later and again wd40 got rid of it as a temp measure till i removed the wheel again to put the avon on. So try som wd40 and if that gets rid of it, take it back to the dealer and tell them to remove the wheel again and grease up the works ! If the squeaking started after they put the tire on i guaran-damn-tee you it's thier fault ! How I know.....last time i took the wheel off i had a heck of a time reinstalling it and a lot of the grease got removed in the hour long struggle. When i was done thats when it started. And (and i since came up with a much better wheel re-install procedure)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Daz. Like I said the squeak sound is like a wheel turning- it is a rotating sound, not like what I would expect from an infinite belt spinning on the rear sprocket - your 2nd post makes perfect sense. The cycle of the squeak is definitely in tune to the revolutions of the wheel itself. If WD-40 works for awhile, I'm thinking the white lithium grease (made for metal on metal) might work better? But you are right, the dealer should make it right, and unfortunately I have to wait now until Tuesday for them to do that. They did tell me that they re-installed the wheel "exactly" where it was when they took it off - and they didn't adjust the belt - but I can dang sure tell you that the belt is tighter now than it was when I took it in. I'm not sure that's a bad thing as it was never adjusted from purchase and it might have been getting on the loose side. They told me it is NOT too tight, and when I look at the guard and push with my finger, it seems to be where it should be. Also as for the speed of where I hear it - I have heard it as high as 40 mph, but beyond that I think wind noise, tire noise and whatnot just makes it harder to hear, plus the speed of the wheel probably makes the squeak a different frequency harder to hear as well. I'm going to go spray it now and later I'm going to go gas it up - supposed to be at a Poker run sign in at 8AM tomorrow morning and that's all I need is 500 Harley owners seeing "Squeaky" ride up on his Triumph!
 

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White lithium may work, and in fact thats what i was going to use but my can was old and when i tried it it was dead. But WD40 is actually better for testing because it's more likely than anything to wick deep in and get better coverage. The lithium would be better for the long run, but you only want to test it. the real fix is to get in there and grease it good.

And like i said, belt chirp is only going to happen during acceleration, not cruise or decel where you seem to hear it. plus it's more of a chirping sound than the squeak, but "squeak" is exactly how i'd explain the wheel needing grease. Give it a shot of WD and you'll probably find thats it. besides, even if i squeaks you will still have it all over those harley guys ! :D By the way, a kawi concours tried to race me today on the way to work. He got the jump on me but i was surprised to find he really didn't pull me ! If we'd kept going i'm sure he would have, but in a roll on from about 20 to 60 MPH i kept up. I was shocked to be honest. The concours i think has like 150 HP. I think the older ones only had 95 or something, but this one looked quite new.

Anyways, good luck with the WD, and have a good ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just got back from a trip to the gas station and Safeway - no squeak - not even a hint of one - I think you nailed it - I'll let those yahoo's on Tuesday know what to do. Ugh - you pay $90 - $120/hr for service you should get GOOD service.

I like stories like the Kawi - you're going to talk me into the BB kit yet!
 

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Thats why i say dealers are worthless. A necessary evil. They rarely talk to you w/o some agenda and deception, and they will never admit to any mistake or wrong doing, which they commit on a regular basis. Learn to do as much of the work as you can yourself. In a way i can understand that since they are only human and are going to make mistakes now and then. But the problem i have is they do this constantly. Like i've said many times, i have had my tbird in the shop 3 times and my speedy once, and of those 4 times they screwed up FOUR times. Twice in ways that could have easily gotten me killed. No wait, make that THREE things that could have gotten me killed. And i'm not even exaggerating in the least. They have to be THE #1 worse service of any kind on earth. This was 4 screwups at 4 different dealers with 3 mistakes that could have been deadly. Need i say more?!

In any case i'm glad the WD worked. They may decline to grease it free and may not admit to anything. But they should have greased it and apparently didn't.
 

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Took mine back in for squeaky belt right after my $825.00 12K service. Told all was fine "they all do that". I knew better as the squeak was pretty loud under acceleration. Anyway, took a 150 mile trip up the coast. Got home and there were black spots all over the back wheel on the belt side only...took it back and it has been there almost three weeks waiting for a new belt and pully....I have had issues with every problem discussed on this forum except sticking speedo. Have had the bike 19 months and it has been in the shop over 3 of those months...It is time for Triumph to admit this early build Bird was a total lemon from day one.

Len
 

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Thats a drag, sorry you have so many issues Len. Mine is july '09, one of the first. And i have had belt issues but go to a HD forum or just google harley belt adjustment and you can spend a week reading about HD riders with issues. Other than that tho mine has never been in the shop except to have the BB installed, chrome triple clamps installed, and the 600 mile service which was a $300 mistake. But it's been reliable and just great. Same with most, but there have been a handful like yourself, and i agree triumph should own up. But they generally don't unless it's a single issue they know is a defective design on thier part. Truth be told, no bike manufacturer is going to be quick to honor warranty issues unless it's undeniable. It is unfortunately the way of the world today and something you risk owning a bike. My experience is that most manufacturers won't own up to everything because even with a good design, when you sell as many units as they do it only takes a fraction of owners to have issues and to the manufacturer that can be a huge investment. The consumer only sees it as why won't they fix my problems, how much could it cost a huge company like this. The manufacturer has a 1000 consumers asking that of them at a time, a huge investment to them.

I'm not siding with them, i agree with you. But thats why IMO they aren't always ready to jump on warranty issues and do the right thing. refusing a customer's request for warranty issues is a calculated risk to them and based on market research. Were are just numbers to them, and triumph is just one of the many.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Rode my bike 5 miles today. To the Victory dealer Demo Day -rode a Hammer and Crossroads. The hammer pulls so hard it squishes your brain into the back of your head - Daz be interested to see you get beside one of those guys - thing pulls way harder than I thought it would or even could, first and 2nd gear felt like there was a real chance the front wheel might lift. My bike started the squeak on the ride home. I'm getting pretty pissed. Now I'll get to watch all my buddies ride off Monday and mine will stay in the garage and I'll go do something mundane like rent a pedal paddle boat at the little duck lake. Sigh. Fricken sux!!!! Stupid bike shops.
 

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The 1700 bird actually sports better HP and torque specs by a bit. It should take the hammer or at least pull the same. Short tors should put it ahead. I had the 1600 and BB'd it, so i know the difference and that "pull" you describe is what i feel when i ride my 1700 Tbird. Maybe not as hard as the vic...i never rode a hammer. But i can say the 1700 bird pulls hard and much more than the 1600, especially with short tors.
As for the squeak, don't get so riled. Victorys and all other bikes have little issues. Buy one and see. you very well may wish you never sold the Tbird. But your call....you just have to be sensible and realize a little squeak due to a lack of grease is about as small an issue as you will ever find on any bike. I had it, took acre of it asap and not an issue since. Bikes are needy. Whatever you ride it's going to give you headaches now and they. They aren't cars....they aren't built for ease of maintenance and total reliability. No matter what brand you buy you will have to deal with little issues. If the hammer seemed much stronger, buy the BB kit or buy a storm. If thats not enough for you buy a R3. It will devastate any victory as tho it were a vespa. But you will pay big time for that. Theres no winning.... you want a killer ride, you pay big and you worry big. Thats the way it is unfortunately. Victories aren't better...they're different. But they all give you fits here and there.
 

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I talk to a lot of people who ride other bikes and it seems you can always find someone who has had problems with something from every brand. Many times its the dealership not standing behind the service or repair.
Yesterday I met a guy who will be rideing his bike something close to 150 miles to the dealer that I got my bird from because his dealer cant seem to fix some driveabilty issues he has with an America.
Maybe its time to find an other shop? and see what they can do for you with making things right.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok let me be very clear. I do not have a problem with my Bird. I have a problem with the Bike Service shop!:mad: I would never sell my Bird unless it was to provide food to my starving wife and children - and even then they better not be faking it. :D

Back to Victory - the dealer is literally less than 5 miles from my house -their demo day was like going to the amusement park - ride the rides and go home on what you rode in on. Beat on someone elses bikes, burn their fuel, AND they feed you a pretty good BBQ lunch - all for FREE, well I just couldn't turn that down so a couple of us went down and spent half a day tearing up the Victory's. IMO they are overpriced for what they are - in many respects i think they are of lesser quality - the left mirror kept falling out of place, I know that's an easy tightening fix but still it's the demo they put out there and it was irritating while riding. The pegs are small - it shifts like an elephant - you have to really put your boot into it and mean it when you shift, and you are rewarded with a big satisfying THUNK, satisfying that is if you are driving something big...like a garbage truck? The throttle response was way different too - whereas my bird jumps if you breathe on the throttle from idle, the Victory is really tame, takes more throttle from the wrist and takes longer RPM to wind up to the "pull", then it pulls harder thru a higher rpm range than the Bird does - all of which Daz says you get with the BB kit. But a single wrist motion does not get you idle to full throttle stop, unless you lean forward and do an exagerated elbow down move, so I found myself getting 1/4 into throttle, re-positioning my wrist and then going full throttle - that was irritating as well! But the engine itself - oh baby it is a dream, sounds good, this bike had the 2-1 pipe, was louder, but not obnoxious, so it would have had the "TOR" type tune - you won't ever confuse the sound for a Harley (a plus in my opinion), I fell in love with their engine - the test ride was about 15 miles, some hills and twisties - oh and the hammer turns like a dump truck - however the crossroads turns way easier than the Bird - only the rest of the bike makes you feel like you are in Grannies, 1971 Cadillac, and that's not a good thing - story for another post. So in short - I am very pleased I chose the TBird - but the BB kit is looking more and more alluring to me!

Daz look for a PM, thanks.
 

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Victory is not immune from squeaks. Check out the following link to see what this poor guy ridding a Victory Vision has to deal with! Fortunately he finds the solution at the end; those of you who ride with a Pillion should be aware of this potential issue and the solution.
http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=294058 :D
 

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Discussion Starter #15
IT'S FIXED!!!! I think...

So I finally convinced them to take the wheel off and have a look - whaddya know - he said the wheel bearing was too tight...hmmm wonder how that happened? He didn't think that was the problem however - it was in the cushing on the drive pulley that they found a "dry rubber"? Anyway - Daz as you put it - they "greased the works" and now everything should be good. I couldn't get it to squeak on the 15 miles to the dealer and he couldn't get it to squeak ever so - glad they were willing to put in the time on must my "say so". However...

Since they were running it on the dyno for the inspection I took out my credit card and said give it a few pulls and give me hp, torque and A/F readout. I was pleased that the air/fuel mixture was really quite good - around 4,000 RPM it gets quite lean and they said don't spend a lot of time there, and I don't - as I'm usually just revving thru 4 to get to the next gear, and then unless you are cruising at 92, you are below 4,000 rpm. Rear wheel HP was 71, Max torque was 93. This disappointing part is the torque curve looks like a bowling ball, learning to fly...without wings. It begins dropping around 2,600 rpm and does a 45 degree angle down to the rev limiter. There thought is that the BB kit might change the torque curve some. Being a pro-shop they were drawing me diagrams and math formulas and talking about what they do - in their minds a factory kit is kind of generic and they could do much better - they do build racing bikes after all. BUT...I don't need a racing bike - so - any of you gents out there with a BB kit - have you run it on a dyno?? I'd love to compare my current numbers with what yours are...in fact I think I'll post a new thread to that effect. And Daz...thanks for your help in "greasing the works"!
 
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