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Discussion Starter #41
WOW... that’s very impressive Decosse..it as not done much mileage and the see through oil level window does fog up.. I think you may have supernatural motorbike powers..?
 

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If REALLY bad, it could point to a leaking head gasket - but don't think that's the case with yours.
The emulsification happens when the engine is not run to full operating temp (or for short periods) and the water condenses out and mixes with the oil.

You can actually see the condensation in this video of my TL from about 15 secs ...........
(once warmed up it would clear right up and if ridden bit more regularly it wouldn't happen - but after parked up for a bit in garage, it would again do that)

 

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Discussion Starter #48
Ok...so it ain’t cos it’s on centre stand..tried starting it off centre stand just to see...turns over a couple of times then sounds like some giant insect rubbing it’s antennae together...
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Got tank in a better position...as I understand all I need for her to start is fuel lines and an electric connection on fuel tank plate and this wire here...time is the enemy here people and if I can’t fix today may have to wait another week before I get a day off work
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Arrrggghhh...gone inside to read the holy of holiness Haynes manual looking for divine inspiration/intervention and I’ve come back out to alarm beeping softly and a flat battery..how did it do that?????
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Ok so I’m not getting any where fast here and other than replace vacuum hose and I got a new IACV gasket to go on and a new crank case gasket to replace I’m stuck as to why I can’t get her to start to do throttle balance
 

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One remark regarding what I can see on your picture: The pressure regulator was "stamped" to increase the pressure and so modify the Air Fuel Ratio (AFR). Other readers to confirm that point.


it should be like that:




Just my 2 cents


Fred
 

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The reason it won't run is because it's not getting air.
You have the throttle balancer connected directly to the TB ports - it needs air through those ports from the IACV to allow it enough air to run.
The manual suggests that you TEE the gauges into the lines leaving the IACV connected:
I just connect them directly (as appears you did) and put a small shim under the throttle stop to allow the throttles to be very slightly open - note that your cold-start speed increase is not going to be in operation - warm up the engine first with the IACV connected normally, then connect your gauges.
The shim should be allowing your bike to idle in the 1200-1600 range ideally

I don't see that it looks like the FPR has been peened? Just looks like some crud to me - the 'star' in the centre is normal
The OP will be able to determine being able to see it first-hand.

The drain hoses being missing is not going to affect anything
 

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The two nipples are for simple rubber hoses that lead straight down and aft to the underside of the bike. One is the 'scupper' drain from the filler neck area. That one tends to clog with mineral deposits - take a small drill bit in your fingers and ream out the chalk. Hoses press-fit, no clamps or zip-ties. The other is a vent.

The hose on the FPR was not installed on the Gen II 955's.

Replace the nylon QD fuel fittings (esp. the female on the fuel pump plate) as soon as you can with Stainless Steel ones. The two aluminum fittings you have were installed by Triumph in a recall.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Of course ?...
I must have been a dizzy blonde in a previous life..it needs air to start ?..Decosse your a life saver..
so I incorrectly assembled TB kit as well.. I shall look into and reassemble it .this time carefully looking at instructions wearing my glasses...lol...
Lots of helpful information gentlemen..
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Day not a complete loss..vacuum hoses and crank case gasket replaced as that was leaking and blowing bubbles...
Thank you for your patience with me and all the helpful tips and advice..without it I couldn’t have got this far..I really do appreciate it...
 

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I had a 2001 Sprint St , that used to sputter and die when coming to a stop. Changing the idle speed and raising the co setting fixed the stall issue. But you need a cable and software for that.


Just got this on off Amazon, it is axes and eights! ECU cable and software
 
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