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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone first off i am new the forum and have read a lot of no start sprint write ups and no one has the exact problem i have i think...maybe wrong. So i got this triumph on a trade for my bobber i built and it ran great when i got it, however it was red and yellow painted by an art student....who couldnt paint apparently. So i removed the tank to paint and the side panels. when i removed i checked plugs are new he said he changed them. checked all the vacuum hoses and found two broken at the air idle valve(assume thats the name for piece that has the three vacuum hoses and goes inside the airbox when its fitted). replaced both hoses one going to cylinder 3 an one going elsewhere forget exact end. Other than that i did nothing. after painting bike i reassembled everything. fuel hose on left to lower point on tank right tube hose to upper straight connector. check valve vacuum tube to forward hole on tank and drain off tube to back hole. reconnected fuel level sensor and reconnected pump. turned key turned kill switch to on heard pump prime primed it a few times to fill the lines....pulled clutch in hit starter....starter cranked no start..... did this several times then put battery on charger to not draw to much while trying to start.....stillll no start......where did i go wrong or forget to do?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
to add to this things i think maybe a problem......possible no fuel pressure......can i check??? also i hear a weezing noise when its starting.....what the hell is that?
 

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Urgh. Dude. Please use paragraphs; it gets a bit hard to read otherwise...

Anyway, welcome, let's see if maybe we can get you sorted here.

So you pulled the tank and it stopped running?

The piece with the three hoses is the idle air control valve. What did you replace the broken hoses with? It needs to be pretty sturdy; corrugated is best, else thick wall. It's also a bit tricky: there are three connectors on the bottom, but there's a blanked off stub as well. Make sure the hoses are on the live connectors.

The fuel connector from the right side of the rail (feed, silver connector) should go to the bottom connector with the hose and the one from the left (return, red connector) should go to the upper one, according to specs. In practice, it just means your fuel will flow backwards from the diagram and won't make any actual difference. (And if your connectors are plastic instead of red and silver aluminum, you'll want to get the recall done ASAP!)

First thing I would try is pulling the check valve off. Second thing would be going back to double check the IACV.

I'm not entirely clear on what the first gen 955s do with the safety switches. I think the starter won't spin when they're engaged, but maybe it will? Anyway, make sure you're in neutral if the sidestand is down.

Cheers,
-Kit
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
thank you for your reply.

First off the iacv valve the stub is all the way to the left side and is correct no lines going to it.

i will switch the lines however i read another write up regarding an 01 rs and they said correct was opposite....so now i am confused???

when you say pull off the check valve are you talking remove it and do what with all the hoses that were attached wouldnt that just creat a leak??

also the starter is grabbing and it has compression in spec. however i noticed when i switch the line. there was no fuel in the lines and if i primed it like 5 or 6 times shouldn't the lines be full?
 

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At least for the '02-up models, the diagram in the FSM shows right to left, or counter-clockwise, fuel flow, which means the bottom (feed) goes to the right side of the fuel rail. The injectors, however, do not care whether it flows right to left or left to right, so as long as both hoses are hooked up you should be fine.

When I say pull off the check valve, I mean pull off the tipover valve connected to the fuel tank vent. It's suddenly occurring to me now that you mention "all the hoses" that you might have a bunch of California stuff I know nothing about.

I would definitely expect the lines to have fuel by now.

Might be worth pulling the pump plate and verifying the hoses on the other side? I had a 1.5" long hose split inside my tank once; chased it for weeks thinking it was an electrical problem!

Cheers,
-Kit
 

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Discussion Starter #6
when the hose split did you have no start?

feel like this maybe the problem

can you reuse the gasket that seals the plate or do i need a new one?
 

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Yeah, I had intermittent issues, followed by a no start condition. That gasket is really well built; mine was pretty toasty looking due to the Texas heat, but I was able to re-use it anyway.

If you replace any hose, don't forget to use pressurized hose instead of regular.

Do _NOT_ over-torque the fuel plate bolts; they'll strip the plastic tank right on out very, very, easily. I think the spec is about 6Nm, or as soon as the little 1/4" ratchet feels the bottom.

May as well replace the fuel filter while you're in there.

Cheers,
-Kit
 

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And you might want to do the FPR Mod while you are in there.

Look at the alternate parts list for filters. Triumph wants a ridiculous amount of money for theirs.
 

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I hate to state the obvious, but if it ran before you took the tank off, and it didn't after you replaced the tank, then it is very likely something you did.

Retrace your steps.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
appreciate all the knowledge you guys are giving me i will check everything i did later today after i get off work. if nothing pops out of the norm i have an appointment scheduled for saturday at the dealership...(gonna hurt the bank). the hoses that were split at the iacv one i couldnt replace so i taped the boot at the connector very well. doesnt seem to leak connection is tight. the hoses on the triumphs (plastic rubber hybrid hose material) is crap and an odd size not quite 9/32 not quite 1/4.
 

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If you have been cranking the engine for a while and you are sure you are getting fuel. It's a good bet that you have fouled the plugs.
 

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Urgh. Dude. Please use paragraphs; it gets a bit hard to read otherwise...

Anyway, welcome, let's see if maybe we can get you sorted here.

So you pulled the tank and it stopped running?

The piece with the three hoses is the idle air control valve. What did you replace the broken hoses with? It needs to be pretty sturdy; corrugated is best, else thick wall. It's also a bit tricky: there are three connectors on the bottom, but there's a blanked off stub as well. Make sure the hoses are on the live connectors.

The fuel connector from the right side of the rail (feed, silver connector) should go to the bottom connector with the hose and the one from the left (return, red connector) should go to the upper one, according to specs. In practice, it just means your fuel will flow backwards from the diagram and won't make any actual difference. (And if your connectors are plastic instead of red and silver aluminum, you'll want to get the recall done ASAP!)

First thing I would try is pulling the check valve off. Second thing would be going back to double check the IACV.

I'm not entirely clear on what the first gen 955s do with the safety switches. I think the starter won't spin when they're engaged, but maybe it will? Anyway, make sure you're in neutral if the sidestand is down.

Cheers,
-Kit
(Slightly off main topic)
People keep mentioning the"recall" on the fuel connectors. Is there a recall notice number, I cannot locate it in my search.
Thanks
 

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(Slightly off main topic)
People keep mentioning the"recall" on the fuel connectors. Is there a recall notice number, I cannot locate it in my search.
Thanks
Doubtful you would find copies in a site search since they are Triumph confidential information.

The SB numbers are 342 and 34s, dated May 2004.

What information are you thinking they could provide/you need? They just consist of the fault description and the new part numbers, numbers which are available from several online sites, and the replacement instructions.
 

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Doubtful you would find copies in a site search since they are Triumph confidential information.

The SB numbers are 342 and 34s, dated May 2004.

What information are you thinking they could provide/you need? They just consist of the fault description and the new part numbers, numbers which are available from several online sites, and the replacement instructions.
Normally recalls have a NHSA number or a manufacturer's ref. number attached as with service bulletins.
These would be helpful as our Daytona dealer is CHEAP as in stingey.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
ok so heres the deal i smoke tested the intake (i am a car mechanic) no leaks anywhere so i know i dont have a vacuum leak then i hooked and inline tester for spark plugs and i definently have spark.....fuel pump primes but it never fills the lines....my lines should be full after i prime the system various times.

so my question is why dont i have fuel pressure....and why if i can hear the pump priming do i not get fuel in the lines????

also i set up an appointment at the dealership to do the recall as my connections are still plastic however they arent broken i also replaced fuel line o-rings thinking it wasnt a good seal. nothing changed......
 

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I'd recommend you don't waste your time with the Factory fuel fitting recall, unless you want to save a little bit of money.

The 'fix' is to replace the two 'male' 90 degree connectors with ones made of aluminum. One is Red, the other natural aluminum. However, the part that causes the trouble (especially when the plastic elbows are gone) is the tank-mounted female connection.

You can buy the entire kit from Team Triumph (and others) that replaces all four fittings with chrome-plated brass fittings, or you can buy your own female fittings, and use the 'new' metal elbows provided under the Triumph recall. I just went with the TT kit.

Back to the OP's problem. Have you tried breaking the pressure connection while the pump is energized? I've never heard of it happening, but you may have managed to get the pump 'air-bound,' and it isn't moving anything.

Also, how much fuel did you put in the tank after you worked on it?
 

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sounds like the male fittings aren't opening the valves in the female fittings on the gas tank....
That is if the pump is getting fuel and pumping it.

To test, unplug one fuel line, and turn the key on for the pump to come on. If no fuel, then plug back in and unplug the other one and try it. You should get fuel coming out the fuel rail hose in one of those positions.
 
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