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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Evening all! Been a while since I ventured to start a thread here but it seems I’ve just bought myself a ‘76 Tiger. Picked it up Friday. I owned a ‘39 T100 back in the late 60’s (which was stolen :) and I have a ‘52 T Bird which I rebuilt from boxes in 1993 (I think). This will be my first ever Unit Twin.
The bike is a non runner with some non standard paint, exhausts and has a few bits missing so I’m in the process off going through it and seeing what I need to find, buy and mend.

Top of the missing list are front and rear master cylinders, so some pointers would be handy, I’ve seen new ones for sale in the web, starting at just over £100. Need the kill switch to go with this. I have the light switch in the headlight.

I only have one foot rest and not sure which side it is.
I need a clutch lever which seems to be separate to the switchgear, I have “low/main and indicators” on the left bar.

There’s a bit of a wiring nest under the seat but I think most of that is down to a solid state reg/rec floating about not bolted down to anything. Found a wiring diagram online which looks correct. Bike came without a key but I’ve un-seized and re-keyed the ignition to an old key I had here.

I’ve stripped the carb, freed off the slide, all looks good in there (spookily clean) but there’s been a bit of dremeling done in the float bowl, not sure what that’s about (pic below).
Should the float valve have rubber tip? This one is just plastic.
What should the jets be for this bike? Main is 106?

That’s about it for now!




 

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Welcome Newsh!

I have a 73 Tiger 750 Canadian re-import which I bought as a non-runner a couple of years ago. Got it running for the summer of 2019, then did a full rebuild in the winter of 2019/20. Just back on the road after the winter just gone. I did a rebuild diary on it here somewhere.

There are some real experts on here, unlike me, so you'll soon get responses once they see this post. Don (in California) has a 73 TR7RV and knows his stuff.

The carb needs a modern Stay-up float (black) and a Viton tipped float needle to cope with modern fuels, and may need needles and jets once you get it running. Burlen will do you a rebuild kit.

I put a new front master cylinder on mine - available at about £120. My rear is the comical drum.

Switches should, I think, be the Lucas console switches, which are not available, but I did pick one up at Stafford Autojumble a couple of years ago and re-wired it to suit. They have the kill switch but I don't have mine wired in. I think there may be some Sparx pattern switches still about.

I've had no trouble getting parts (other than those switches) and you might like to try Monty's, LP Williams, Hawkshaw, Tri-Supply and Tri-Cor Andy. There are others, but there are also some who don't have the better quality parts.

These are a really nice bike once you get them dialled in. I have a restored 72 Daytona, and a Hinckley T100 Bonnie for convenience, but I think my Tiger is my favourite. It's easy to start, very torquey, and with its Morgan screen will cruise all day.

Tire Wheel Land vehicle Fuel tank Plant
 

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Hi,
‘76 Tiger
Found a wiring diagram online
Triumph workshop manual online, correct standard wiring diagram is on .pdf page 191, manual page H22. Wiring suppliers I've used for decades have been Vehicle Wiring Products and Autosparks.

have one foot rest and not sure which side it is.
'76 Triumph parts book online. You can also look at images on line by entering "triumph " plus the part number into your preferred internet search engine.

front and rear master cylinders,
Need the kill switch to go with this. I have the light switch in the headlight.
New cylinders are stainless patterns; however, before buying the front, I recommend finding the corresponding handlebar switch cluster you can use; reason I suggest this is the two clamp together around the handlebar and, if you can't find the switch cluster at a price you like, you might want to think again about all the handlebar switches, a front master cylinder that clamps to the 'bar?

Both right and left switch clusters are available new (right, left), not cheap and not brilliant quality; :( Fleabay turns up Sparx, occasional L.F. Harris (pattern) and original Lucas for less money.

Right-hand switch cluster should have the front brake switch that fits in the master cylinder mounting but used it might've broken off. Mickey-mouse device designed by Heath Robinson and Rube Goldberg on a bender. (n) As you don't have brake hoses(?), consider making your own in braided hose and reusable end fittings, when you can incorporate a proper hydraulic switch; (y) master cylinder and caliper threads are 3/8"UNF.

Cylinders - doesn't matter about the retailer but those wholesaled by L.F. Harris seem to have the least problems. Wherever you buy, consider dismantling, checking the inside of the bore for absolute smoothness - particularly around the reservoir vents, installing new seals and adjusting as per the AP Lockheed Service Instructions. Reason I suggest new seals is you don't want to assemble everything with fluid only to find one of the seals was nicked by a burr? Reason I suggest adjusting as per the Lockheed destructions is the cylinders aren't always assembled correctly. (n)

carb
dremeling done in the float bowl, not sure what that’s about
Farkling. It's for increased fuel flow into the bowl but, unless the bike was raced ... :rolleyes:

Should the float valve have rubber tip?
(y) As Andy posted, Viton-tipped aluminium, along with effinol-resistant float.

jets
Main is 106?
Uh-uh, .106 is the needle jet. Main is 270 according to the parts book but fuel has changed somewhat in the intervening 45 years so you might want to ask Amal if anything different is recommended?

parts
you might like to try Monty's, LP Williams, Hawkshaw, Tri-Supply and Tri-Cor Andy.
To whom I'd add TMS and Grin. (y)

Hth.

Regards,
 

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I got as far as you mentioning missing brake parts - that's one line item I have TONS of spares for. I have at least 5 OEM calipers and even a chrome cover or two, several different hard pipes, a new hose or two, a couple of master cylinder rebuild kits, and some M/C spare parts. The blue light special price is "make an offer, plus postage"...
752754


752755


752756


I love to see this stuff go to a good home...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks very much for the replies chaps! Very useful stuff, I’d found the online manual but not the parts book, very good.

Had already ordered a Viton float needle and have now added the new float, gasket set, and the idle needle which is missing.
Otherwise I think the carb is good.

I had a session last night with the wiring, connected a battery, cleaned the points, bypassed the handlebar kill switch at the connector in the headlight cleaned and tightened some spade connectors and managed to get a spark at both plugs!

There is oil in the frame which is pretty clean. So I’ll kick it over for a bit to check it’s pumping through the return.

Compression seems good but need to actually measure it.

I need a new pair of condensers, they’ve been mistreated and one of them has a loose grounding thread.

Will get some more bits ordered and return when I’ve made some progress.

GPZ that’s very generous, I’ll check out my calipers to see if they’re useable and get back to you.
 

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The points on this are a bit of a mess.
What’s peoples thoughts on Boyer ignition?
A no brainer. If your points plate and the auto advance unit are past their sell-by date, go for a Mk IV Boyer. But, you may need 2 off 6V coils as well, and not the cheapo Lucas look-alikes. These new coils are around £50 each. But, but you'll probably need them. NOS AAU's are long gone it seems. So a Boyer conversion is not cheap, but if the AAU is toast, it may be the only option. Other EI systems are available and others will advise, but I have a MkIII (it came with the bike) Boyer and 6V coils and they work perfectly. First or 2nd kick, every time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
A no brainer. If your points plate and the auto advance unit are past their sell-by date, go for a Mk IV Boyer. But, you may need 2 off 6V coils as well, and not the cheapo Lucas look-alikes. These new coils are around £50 each. But, but you'll probably need them. NOS AAU's are long gone it seems. So a Boyer conversion is not cheap, but if the AAU is toast, it may be the only option. Other EI systems are available and others will advise, but I have a MkIII (it came with the bike) Boyer and 6V coils and they work perfectly. First or 2nd kick, every time.
Ok good advice, thanks.
 

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Hi,
managed to get a spark at both plugs!
oil in the frame which is pretty clean. So I’ll kick it over for a bit to check it’s pumping through the return.
If you're trying to start the engine and you don't know how long it stood unused, "kick it over for a bit to check it’s pumping through the return" is unwise without some oil in the crankcase, over the valves and rockers, down the pushrod tubes to the cams and followers - Waking The Sleeping Beast. Only thing to bear in mind is that was written primarily for triples, twins have a smaller crankcase so maybe only one pint through the primary?

idle needle which is missing.
:confused: Your first post, third image down, the pointy thing poking out of the carb. is the needle.

Or did you mean the 'needle jet', which goes in the other end of the jet holder (same image, grey threaded hex. to the right of the float) from the main jet (brass thingy in the jet holder)?

Needle and jet don't do idle. That's handled by the pointed screw horizontally into the body on the same side as the throttle stop screw (the 45-degree one in the body, hole visible in your image). The horizontal screw meters idle air, the fuel jet is fixed and can be seen on the far side of the body having removed the air screw.

The idle jet and the passages to/from it into the main venturi by the slide land are the bane of Amal owners' lives, persistently clogging due to corrosion and fuel residues. 🤬

Easiest way to clean the idle jet is a No.78 drill (you'll probably buy a packet of 10 off Fleabay?) fitted in an aerosol can 'straw' (because the drills themselves are usually too short to reach from the air screw hole to the jet), body held air screw hole down, 'straw' twirled between finger and thumb while inserted in the jet. However, this assumes a DPO didn't remember half that old advice but poke some random object in the jet ... enlarging it ...

Idle jet cleaned, squirt carb. cleaner or similar through the body idle passages; if the spray appears through both the aforementioned holes in the main venturi, you've a fighting chance the carb. will do what it says on the tin when required.

thoughts on Boyer ignition?
I gave up on points in 1978, faced with my first T160's at it's 3,000-mile service. They've had Lucas Rita EI but you have to be an enthusiast to assemble the bits. B-B has a poor rep. on triples but I put Mk.3 on my T100 when I built it, because the B-B came at the right condition and price (brand-new, free ;)) and it was warned there's a Rita sitting on the shelf if it ever gave any trouble ... :) B-B's rather basic for the third decade of the 21st century but, as long as it also does what it says on the tin ... at least Bransden's in the same country if anything does go wrong. (y)

you may need 2 off 6V coils
Ime, no "may"; any problem you consult Bransden about, second question after ascertaining it's a twin is if it has '6V' coils; negative answer, first advice will be to fit '6V' coils ...

If you go for a B-B, Bransden sell '6V' coils but it isn't clear whether they mean actual shonky 'Wassell "Lucas"' because "17P6" is a PVL (y) coil designation. :confused: If they are peddling Wassell, (n) the other good make are Tri-Spark, from L.P. Williams.

Hth.

Regards,
 

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Newsh
I have a front brake caliper and master cylinder if you want them (I’m in The UK, so postage won’t be a killer)
I don’t have the switch side to the master cylinder so you would have to source one. I know the master cylinder and brake caliper work, but I just don’t need them.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hi,

If you're trying to start the engine and you don't know how long it stood unused, "kick it over for a bit to check it’s pumping through the return" is unwise without some oil in the crankcase, over the valves and rockers, down the pushrod tubes to the cams and followers - Waking The Sleeping Beast. Only thing to bear in mind is that was written primarily for triples, twins have a smaller crankcase so maybe only one pint through the primary?
Interesting article, I can identify with the level of OCD :)
Interestingly, back when I had my 39 Tiger 100, I lived in Chelmsford Gardens, just off Wanstead Park Road.


Easiest way to clean the idle jet is a No.78 drill (you'll probably buy a packet of 10 off Fleabay?) fitted in an aerosol can 'straw' (because the drills themselves are usually too short to reach from the air screw hole to the jet),

Idle jet cleaned, squirt carb. cleaner or similar through the body idle passages; if the spray appears through both the aforementioned holes in the main venturi, you've a fighting chance the carb. will do what it says on the tin when required.

Same story with the Kevin’s on my KTMs


I gave up on points in 1978, faced with my first T160's at it's 3,000-mile service. They've had Lucas Rita EI but you have to be an enthusiast to assemble the bits. B-B has a poor rep. on triples but I put Mk.3 on my T100 when I built it, because the B-B came at the right condition and price (brand-new, free ;)) and it was warned there's a Rita sitting on the shelf if it ever gave any trouble ... :) B-B's rather basic for the third decade of the 21st century but, as long as it also does what it says on the tin ... at least Bransden's in the same country if anything does go wrong. (y)


Ime, no "may"; any problem you consult Bransden about, second question after ascertaining it's a twin is if it has '6V' coils; negative answer, first advice will be to fit '6V' coils ...

If you go for a B-B, Bransden sell '6V' coils but it isn't clear whether they mean actual shonky 'Wassell "Lucas"' because "17P6" is a PVL (y) coil designation. :confused: If they are peddling Wassell, (n) the other good make are Tri-Spark, from L.P. Williams.

Hth.

Regards,
Oki Doki

I’ll probably get it going on the CBs and stock coils then go electronic .

The original switchgear and levers are so ugly I’m looking at alternatives
 

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Hi,
Waking The Sleeping Beast
can identify with the level of OCD :)
:) I view it more as cheap insurance - done, if engine components didn't need it, no harm done; not done, if engine components did need it, unnecessary premature wear. (n)

original switchgear and levers are so ugly I’m looking at alternatives
I quite like the left-hand one - pretty-much all necessary functions in a compact classic-looking cluster, standard Lucas wire colours so easy to connect, separate clutch lever if the bike falls on that side.

Otoh, right-hand one badly-beaten by the ugly stick and, even on the T160 it came from, is only marginally more useful as one button does the electric-start.

I fitted my T160's with black switch clusters fitted originally on the electric-start Commando and later on the Triumph twins:-


(sorry about the image sizes, curiously Google doesn't turn up anything smaller :confused:)

... only thing I don't like is the clutch lever pivot is part of the switch cluster, if the bike falls on that side; :(

More difficult on your bike is those clusters work with a different ignition switch, that also controls the lighting, that can't be mounted easily on a pre-'79 twin.

My T100's front end is similar to your bike's. Always had the same left-hand cluster as your bike. Started with the same right-hand cluster/master cylinder mounting as your bike; (n) master cylinder replaced by Front - CP2215-90 | AP Racing (I'd had it a long time so didn't have to pay the modern price ...); (y) switch cluster replaced by the Sparx above, (n) recently bought a pre-2003 Hinckley kill switch - small and will fit between the twistgrip and master cylinder. Mind, having bough that with an electric-start button redundant on the T100, I then noticed Enfields have a similar-looking kill switch without the starter button ...

I've also bought a couple of similar-age Hinckley left-hand clusters (one Sprint, one T'bird), they have similar functions to the existing left-hand switch cluster but possibly add self-cancelling indicators(? :love:); age-dependent, they're available with or without lighting on-off switch if you wanted to continue to use the toggle switch on top of the headlamp shell.

Or there are any number of handlebar switch clusters and clamp-on front master cylinders on Ebay; using braided hose, it's be easy to connect their metric fine thread. However, the Ebay switch clusters never look particularly waterproof and most (all?) Ebay master cylinders are smaller-ID than the original Lockheed (some like that, I've tried and very much don't).

Hth.

Regards,
 

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Evening all! Been a while since I ventured to start a thread here but it seems I’ve just bought myself a ‘76 Tiger. Picked it up Friday. I owned a ‘39 T100 back in the late 60’s (which was stolen :) and I have a ‘52 T Bird which I rebuilt from boxes in 1993 (I think). This will be my first ever Unit Twin.
The bike is a non runner with some non standard paint, exhausts and has a few bits missing so I’m in the process off going through it and seeing what I need to find, buy and mend.

Top of the missing list are front and rear master cylinders, so some pointers would be handy, I’ve seen new ones for sale in the web, starting at just over £100. Need the kill switch to go with this. I have the light switch in the headlight.

I only have one foot rest and not sure which side it is.
I need a clutch lever which seems to be separate to the switchgear, I have “low/main and indicators” on the left bar.

There’s a bit of a wiring nest under the seat but I think most of that is down to a solid state reg/rec floating about not bolted down to anything. Found a wiring diagram online which looks correct. Bike came without a key but I’ve un-seized and re-keyed the ignition to an old key I had here.

I’ve stripped the carb, freed off the slide, all looks good in there (spookily clean) but there’s been a bit of dremeling done in the float bowl, not sure what that’s about (pic below).
Should the float valve have rubber tip? This one is just plastic.
What should the jets be for this bike? Main is 106?

That’s about it for now!




That is some wild dremiling!
I believe the float needles were mostly just plastic- or if metal had rubber tips
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
@StuartMac, you’re right about the left switch cluster, it’s OK. Mine is good apart from the dip knob being missing, I’ll probably try and fix it.

I’ve got a pair of Yamaha levers from an early R1, the clutch is nice and long and has a dogleg, so I drilled it for the nipple and tried it. This reveals that the clutch is monstrously heavy, two hands needed, cable oiling didn’t help so I’m going to have to look inside.

I’ve replaced the handlebar mounting rubber bushes which were in bits and waiting on a pair of flat tracker bars to arrive.

I’m halfway through tidying the wiring under the seat and have replaced the condensers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Fitted the new condensers and rewired and tidied under the seat.
Fitted new tracker bars to the new mounts.
Rebuilt the carb with new float and gaskets and reinstalled it on the bike.
Thought I’d better have a look at the clutch.
Pulled the gearbox cover off, not much pushrod showing so no wonder the clutch is not working. Will pull the primary side tomorrow.


 
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