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Discussion Starter #1
I'm reading about removing baffles and removing the air injection and I'm wondering...HOW? I have tried to search the forum for information and either I get nothing or I get everything. I would really appreciate a bit of direction if anyone would take the time. I either need to know how to search for these things or just where I can go to get info on how to remove the baffles from my stock pipes and how and why do I need to remove the air injection. Any and all help will be appreciated. Thanks :???:
 

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Grumpy,you dont NEED to remove your AI. Removing it will unclutter your engine a bit,make the spark plugs easier to get to,and slow the bluing of your header pipes,but it isn`t a MUST DO mod. If you gather up the right tools, de-baffleing can take as little as 10 minutes [me] or an hour [most others] An 1 1/4 metal hole saw [the cylinder looking one,not the flat bladed one],a drill and my secret weapon,a 13/16" E Z out,a hammer and pipe or socket. Drill out the end baffle,then tap the baffle in with the pipe or a socket until the tack welds on the other end of the baffle break.Now if you borrowed the E Z out from somebody,just tighten it in and pull out the baffle.If you couldn`t find one that big,grab the baffle tube with needle nose pliers and pick off the fiberglass wrapping and thin baling wire until the baffle can be worked out. This will require forceps or tweezers and a brew or two.. To get more sound,you need to open up more baffle plates inside.They look like the top of a salt shaker.Most people drill bigger holes in the salt shakers with drill bits welded onto 1/2" rod stock.The drill bits sometimes break off inside requiring removal of the pipe to retrieve and somebody even drilled through the side of their pipe.Be careful. I went a different route,just bashing in the salt shakers with a 3/4" piece of pipe and a sledge hammer.I`ve spent about a 1/2 hour total on my pipes to achieve the sound I wanted.If you like,I`ll PM you my cell number so I can play some Bonnie music for you. :cool:
 

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Grumpy,

Removing the AI has no effect on performance except for a marginal decrease in engine temperature. It will slow down bluing of the headers and definitely cleans the engine up making the sparkplugs much easier to access.

Below are the instructions for removing the rear baffles and drilling the remaining baffles. Please feel free to ask me any questions.

I want to credit BillT100 for giving me these instructions and guidance.


Tools needed:

1 ¼ “ metal hole saw (choose a good one)
Minimum 8” long ¼” metal drill bit
Preferred: ½ in drive drill

The rear baffle is held in place by a rear flange and an inner flange. The baffle is tack welded in two places to each of these flanges. Use the hole saw to cut through the rear flange of the rear baffle. This gives you a nice smooth cut.

Use a drift or hold an appropriate sized socket against the rear baffle tube with channel locks or vice grips and tap it sharply to break the spot welds on the front flange. Next remove the fiberglass that is around the tube/baffle with a needle nose pliers or hemostats. The fiberglass is wrapped with thin wire to hold it in place. If you can grasp the wire with needle nose pliers and break it, the fiberglass packing will come out easier in larger chunks. Removing the packing is the hardest part of the job.

When you have removed the fiberglass packing, you can see the inner flange. It is perforated with 1/8” holes. Use the long ¼” drill bit to drill five or six holes in the flange close to the baffle tube. I drilled six in the pattern of the chambers in a revolver cylinder. You are drilling it out all around to create a larger opening and allow for the baffle tube to come out. Grasp the baffle tube with pliers and pull it out. You may have to twist and turn it some to get it out. If it won’t come out, simply drill a couple of more holes. One of mine came out with six holes; the other took seven holes.

You probably don't have to rejet, but if you went up to 112 or 115 main jets the throttle response should improve. The holes in all the internal baffles are 3/4" so you are not dramatically improving the flow through the mufflers. The sound is a little deeper and about 15% louder than stock and doesn't sound like a sewing machine anymore. This is definitely worth doing if you don't want loud mufflers but can't stand the sound of the stock mufflers. You should turn your mixture screws 3 – 3 ½ turns. I turned mine out 3 ¼ turns.

In addition you can drill through the remaining baffles. I did this and it improved the sound as well as improving the flow.

To drill through the remaining baffles you will need a flashlight and a ½ or ¾ inch metal drill bit welded to a 1/2” steel rod approximately 38” long. I measured from the beginning of the front taper of the silencer to the rear of the silencer. I then applied this measurement to the 38” steel rod measuring from the tip of the bit back and marked it with fingernail polish. I did this so I would not push the bit too far and hit the taper of the silencer. I used a ½“ bit simply because I did not have an extra ¾” bit. It really doesn’t matter. It’s definitely not rocket science. If I remember correctly, there are four more baffles to drill through.

The end result is not quite as loud as TORs; but definitely cheaper and it sounds pretty good.

Jetting: For just the rear baffles removed, try 112 to 115 main jets. If all the internal baffles are drilled out with a 1/2" drill bit, use 115 to 118 main jets. For 3/4 " drilled internal baffles, try 120 main jets. Jetting recommendations are for sea level and the snorkel in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
CarlS thanks for the great instructions. Printed them and plan on using them very soon. I notice you are an old soldier. Me too. Did 20 years and retired in 87. Just got my T100 last week after going through just about every Japanese brand then HD. I think I'm really going to enjoy this one. Once again, thanks.
 

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Glad that I could help. I retired in 2000 with 22 years active service and 34 years total service (I had 12 years in the reserves and returned to active duty). Thank you for your service and enjoy that Trumpet!!
 
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