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Discussion Starter #1
Hi
New to the forum :)
I am waiting delivery of my 1981 Triumph T140E, 7 long days to go......
This is the first classic bike that I have owned after lots of modern bikes, the Raleigh Runabout I started biking on in the seventies does'nt count! :D
I expect it may be a steep learning curve so please be gentle with me! :D
I have a few questions that I would like answering

1) I plan on changing all the oils when I get the bike.
Should the primary Oil side be drained when doing an oil change?

2) I only have Metric Spanners, what range of imperial spanners should I buy?

3) The bike I have bought has a fault with the Lucas Pickup and the dealer is sorting it for me.
Is the standard Lucas Electronic Ignition reliable, or should I consider upgrading it to a Boyer?

I think thats all for now, any input greatly appreciated :)

Thanks

Andy
 

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Hi, Andy, I'm in the UK.
Yes, change the Primary oil when doing an initial change...buy the Factory Workshop manual..they turn up all the time on E-Bay.
Spanners, you will need a good set of standard A/F Imperial spanners/ring spanners. You won't need Whitworth, although you may come across the odd nut which need something unusual!
If the machine is suffering from a dodgy Lucas pickup, get the whole ignition set up switched to a Boyer. There's nothing wrong with the Lucas setup but it's difficult to source now, whereas the Boyer is easy to get and they operate a really good sales backup system.
Cheers
bonnieT
 

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hi.im waiting for my triumph 1969 trophy also ,,its been 2 weeks now and it may be 2 weeks more to wait ,,,,,, its about 3 thousend miles from me in tazzy im in sydney australia,,,, and the weather is great for a ride,,, im counting the days ,,,it sucks as i have no controll over the transport of my new bike ...if its not here in 2 weeks im going to fly over to tazzy and hire a ute or as you guys call it a pickup truck and catch the toll ship back to australia then drive back up tp sydney about 650 miles... and about $1,000 dollars,,,,,,,albert the tip rat..............
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi bonnieT
Thanks for the advice :)
Yes, change the Primary oil when doing an initial change
On the T140E the primary oil is shared with the engine oil, so I was not sure when changing the engine oil if it would drain out anyway, or that you would need to drain the primary side as well?

I have bought a reprint of the Triumph Workshop manual and Parts List book, an original owners handbook and also an Haynes manual.
Best be prepared! :D

When the dealer found the fault with the ignition, they rang me and said that they would fit the latest Boyer at a cost of £150, and they would split the cost if I paid the other £75......
What a con! you can buy the ignition system for about £65, so I told them to just replace it with the standard Lucas item.
I have checked the parts, and if it is just the magnetic pickup they can be had for about £8, but if it is the other part of the pickup they are more expensive than the Boyer ignition :eek: and thats if you can still get one....
So I am hoping that they will have to fit the Boyer at no cost to me! :D

Andy
 

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The only trouble I have ever had with a RITA system is corrosion in the bullet connectors, particularly the ones where the pick-up wiring connects to the main wiring loom up by the steering head, behind the horn. There is also a multi connector on the ignition amplifier, may be worth cleaning up before replacing parts.

Mistral Engineering are the RITA experts, 020 8501 2161. I believe they 'invented' it for Lucas. They have been very helpful whenever I spoke with them. I have RITA systems on my Commando and Guzzi T3.

Primary oil is 'shared' with the crankcase through breather holes, three 1/16" ish holes down by the alternator stator. Dont overfill otherwise the clutch will slip.

Worst thing I have found is the Lucas handlebar switch on the left side, the indicator switch wears out in no time.

The other worst thing is the Veglia speedo drive, if you take the rear wheel out make sure it goes back with the speedo cable nice and straight with no bends. If you lube the speedo cable, use oil not grease, if the inner cable is stiff to rotate the drive gearbox will break in no time.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for your input Daveforty :)
I see you have a T140E, perhaps you could answer these two questions for me.....
1) Do you run yours on normal or Super unleaded, or do you use an additive?

2) On my bike the right switchgear has an electric start button that is obviously redundant, the dealer said that Triumph fitted the same switchgear to both the T140E and the T140ES because they were so short of cash.
Does your bike have the redundant electric start button, or has the one on mine been replaced with one from a T140ES?

Thanks

Andy
 

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Who is this dealer then???
The bikes were produced with different switch gear, either your bike was originally an ES and has had the starter removed or the handlebar switch has been changed.
The bike will run absolutely fine on unleaded, but will pink less under load using Super. Additives are a complete waste of good money. The US switched to unleaded in 1977 or so and Triumph machines always had high density cast iron seats fitted, and as such are quite happy to run without lead.
Cheers
bonnieT
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks bonnietiler
Who is this dealer then???
They are not a Classic dealer, just a general bike shop in Stoke.
The T140E belongs to the shop owner who is selling it thru' the shop.
The bikes frame and engine numbers match the logbook, so I think at worst the switchgear must have been replaced sometime in its past for the ES item.

Andy
 

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It will run OK on normal unleaded although I usually use the super unleaded, as mentioned above it will pink less which is good. At nigh on 60mpg I dont care if it is a little more expensive.

I'm pretty sure mine did have the electric start button in the right switch cluster, but it didnt do anything. I long ago got annoyed by the unreliable switches and replaced them with the older type '169SA' lever switches. I'll have a root around the junk box this evening and dig out the old one to check. When I changed the switches around I put a Commando front master cylinder on the thing, I also have twin front discs on my bike.

If your bike is \ was an ES model, then the timing chest will be extended and 'fatter' where the starter motor fitted, well obvious.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If your bike is \ was an ES model, then the timing chest will be extended and 'fatter' where the starter motor fitted, well obvious.
No, its the kickstart model with the Classic 'Triangle' Timing chest :D
I saw a Website that do Sparx products, they sell switchgear to replace the originals with modern ones :-

http://www.tri-corengland.com/acatalog/Handlebar_switchgear.html

Don't know if they are any good, but I have read good reports about the Sparx electronic ignition and electronics that they sell.

Andy
 

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Yes, it's Andy Gregory (RareSpares as was) who runs the UK Sparx/tricor company. I really would go with Boyer on the Electronic ignition front though. To be honest, I wouldn't change the handlebar switch either. The Sparx ones "look" like the original but are pressed steel rather then aluminium, I'm sure they're well made. But, I ran with Lucas for over 20 years and never really had any problems, a bit like the ignition really.. I remember setting the Rita in 1984 when I bought the Royal Wedding and when I sold it in 2001, I "thought" about resetting it..but common sense prevailed and I didn't bother..The Royal W (Percy, I named it) was no "Trailer Queen" either, I did about 30k in those years, including 4 trips to the TT and a couple of National Rallies.
You'll love the T140 though..I'm only in Stockport if you need any advice.
Cheers
BonnieT
 

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Just looked at the original RH handlebar switch, it is a Lucas 187SA-R. It has an area for a starter switch and a cast in legend of STARTER, but no actual switch..... it was a long time ago when I took it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I really would go with Boyer on the Electronic ignition front though
Thanks BonnieT
Once I have the bike I might change it for the latest Boyer :)
To be honest, I am unsure what to expect on the reliability front.
I have never owned a Classic bike before, so its a bit of a grey area for me......
Common sense tells me its an engine with two carbs with electronic ignition so it should be reasonably reliable.....:confused:
I am not afraid of getting my hands dirty, I have stripped and rebuilt lots of bike and car engines before so I should be able to keep on top of the maintenance.
The Sparx ones "look" like the original but are pressed steel rather then aluminium, I'm sure they're well made.
The T140E versions are Black, and look quite modern :)
Just looked at the original RH handlebar switch, it is a Lucas 187SA-R. It has an area for a starter switch and a cast in legend of STARTER, but no actual switch..... it was a long time ago when I took it off.
Thanks Dave, so it looks like the switch has been replaced sometime in its 27 year history.
No problem, as long as it works O.K :)

Andy
 

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The RH switch cluster should be OK, it has the ignition kill switch and headlight switch, I always wired the ignition kill switch out so it couldn't go wrong, and the headlight switch could be wired such the headlight is on with the keyswitch.

It was always the indicator switch in the LH cluster which failed, and swapping that out was the first step towards a variety of alterations.
 
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