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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got back with my first Triumph I was told and the Reg says its a 73. Previous owner said it is a daytona 500 is that a daytona T100?? The vin is DH30967. Sorry im sure you guys have answered these same questions a few times a week. I tried the search but didnt find much help there. I would like to know if there is a site to download owners manuls and repair manuals maybe in a PDF form. I would order the haynes and an owners manual I just wanted to make sure I am getting the right one, that the bike is actually what I was told it is. Also the Bike has sat for 2 years I got it home cleaned the plugs and some fresh gas started in 6-7 kicks. I am curious what maintnece should I do on it. Such as what oil do guys run? Any other fluids I should change? Any thing I should look out for on these? I am pretty mecanical I just have never played with a triumph. That engine is a new beast for me. Thanks alot.
 

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I just got back with my first Triumph I was told and the Reg says its a 73. Previous owner said it is a daytona 500 is that a daytona T100?? The vin is DH30967. Sorry im sure you guys have answered these same questions a few times a week. I tried the search but didnt find much help there. I would like to know if there is a site to download owners manuls and repair manuals maybe in a PDF form. I would order the haynes and an owners manual I just wanted to make sure I am getting the right one, that the bike is actually what I was told it is. Also the Bike has sat for 2 years I got it home cleaned the plugs and some fresh gas started in 6-7 kicks. I am curious what maintnece should I do on it. Such as what oil do guys run? Any other fluids I should change? Any thing I should look out for on these? I am pretty mecanical I just have never played with a triumph. That engine is a new beast for me. Thanks alot.
'DHxxxxx' means it was built April, 1973 ... definitely a '73 model. See date chart Here.

Owner's manual is all but useless. You need a service manual and a parts manual. THIS should be the right service (workshop) manual ... HERE is a good site with lots of manuals, including the parts manual for a '73. (under 'Manuals') OR, get them both Here.

Change all the fluids (Engine oil, Primary oil, Gearbox oil) ... I use Castrol 20W/50 in the engine ... your 73 shares oil between engine and primary, so I guess use the same in the primary ... ASK FIRST AND MAKE CERTAIN (I have an earlier 500) ... and I use Lucas 80W/90 (or is it 85W/90) in the gearbox.

And I'm sure your carbs are going to want to be gone through. They're REALLY easy ... Carb Tuning ... Good info HERE too ... and HERE ...

That should get you started ...

OH! ... and we need some pics ... it's an unspoken rule here ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That was a quick reply. Thanks alot I wanted to read up on her so I can start playing in the garage tomorrow. Thanks alot. I will post a few pictures tomorrow and prob another question or two. I have been riding dirtbikes and street bikes for quite awhile now and just that old one firing up and putting around the yard on it put a big smile on my face. Pretty excited for this new Triumph hobby it looks like I am about to embark on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I went skimed thru that manual and on page 222 or so they have pictures of all the headlights. Mine dosent look like any of those. It has the 3 way toggle switch and 3 lights. Left one is Yellow (blingers) Center Red (oil) Right is Greeen (light). I am just curious what if the bike is what I thouhgt it to be. Maybe just from a different year then I thought? I have searched and havnt found any place to check the older VIN numbers for make and model.
 

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I went skimed thru that manual and on page 222 or so they have pictures of all the headlights. Mine dosent look like any of those. It has the 3 way toggle switch and 3 lights. Left one is Yellow (blingers) Center Red (oil) Right is Greeen (light). I am just curious what if the bike is what I thouhgt it to be. Maybe just from a different year then I thought? I have searched and havnt found any place to check the older VIN numbers for make and model.
CNYMike, In your next post.. I am
glad you were able to answer your know question. But remember,
1973 was not a good labor year for Triumph. So a bike produced
that year might in some cases have a little of this and a little of
that in order to get a machine to sell. If all the stock parts were
not on the shelf the next closest would be used. Also it is an old
bike, anyone over the years could have changed it out.

Welcome to the forum as well.

Pookybear
 

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i think Grand Paul Z came up with this:

(i have a 72! ) )

Steps to take to get Unit Triumphs running

1. GET A SHOP MANUAL! (...and a parts book)

2. Drain crankcase oil from the big angled plug, dran the primary chaincase by removing the left side engine cover, and drain the main oil tank from the plate with 4 nuts at the bottom of the main frame tube behind the engine. Fluch and clean everything, then replace sump plug under engine, and main baffle plate under frame. Re-fill with 20/40 Castrol GTX or whatever you like.

3. Before replacing the left side engine cover, unscrew the 3 clutch springs and pull out all the plates. Soak the fiber plates in some parts wash solvent or (God forbid) gasoline (dry them in the sun). Scuff up the metal plates by rubbing them in a circular pattern on a smooth concrete garage floor or sidewalk, then clean them thoroughly. Re-assmble the clutch and adjust the three screws to where the end of the bolts just show one thread out the hole where you can see it in the slot. Replace the cover and pour 1/4 cup engine oil in the case.

4. Drain the transmission by the stepped headed bolt underneath, and flush it out thoroughly. Replace the drain plug after removing the smaller headed level hole bolt, re-fill with Castrol 80/90 Hypoy (or whatever you want) till it just starts to dribble out the level hole, then re-install bolt.

5. Drain out the fork legs out the bottom, repeatedly compressing the forks to force out the dregs, flush with a couple tablespoons of 10/30 Castrol, drain them thoroughly. Reinstall the plugs and pour 1/4 cup (verify qty with shop manual) 10/30 in each fork leg.

6. Remove gas tank and drain old gas, remove two fuel taps. Flush with a quart of fresh gas and drain thoroughly, allow to dry. Blast dry with a blow tip from an air compressor to remove loose debris. Check fuel taps to see if you can see through them when open. replace tank and fill with mid-grade.

7. Remove carb and open float bowl, remove adjustment screws and main jet assembly. Pull a single strand from a wire brush and use the straight tip to probe all tiny orifices to ensure they are clean. Clean all parts thoroughly with Berryman's carb spray cleaner. Re-assemble the carb and re-install.

8. Remove the front brake master cylinder/lever assembly, remove the brake hoses, and remove the front brake caliper. Drain out all fluid, flush with fresh brake fluid. Spray through rubber hoses with brake parts cleaner and allow to dry thoroughly; once dry, ensure free open flow by blowing through both ends of the hose (deteriorated hoses can act as one-way valves with bad results). Remove the caliper pucks and polish out any discoloration and crud with 0000 steel wool. Throughly clean all parts using fresh brake fluid and a lint-free cloth. Re-assemble, re-fill and bleed out the air.

9. Remove the chain, soak in solvent, and clean thoroughly using a stiff plastic bristle brush to remove all cruddy buildup. Allow to dry thoroughly, then coat with heavy chain lube; wipe off all excess lube and re-install. Adjust chain to minimal free play with weight of rider on the bike compressing shocks to a point where engine sprocket, swingarm pivot point and rear axle are closely aligned.

10. Inspect tires for dry rot / cracking; replace if visible. While inspecting (with bike on centerstand), ensure free rotation of each wheel; if stiff, remove wheel(s) and re-pack wheel bearings.

11. Perform valve adjustment by the book.

12. Remove battery and fill to top level with DISTILLED WATER. place on trckle charger at 1/2 - 2 amps, overnight. Test battery with tester, all 6 cells. If any "dead" cells, replace bettery.

13. Adjust rear brake linkage for proper operation.

14. With bike on centerstand, sit on rear section of seat to lift front wheel off the ground; check steering for free, smooth, lock-to-lock travel. If "crunchy", or stiff, re-pack steering stem bearings. Pop the bike off it's stands, hold the front brake and check steering stem tightness by attempting to "rock" the bike, if any loosness is felt, nip up the stem nut. Re-check to ensure it has not stiffened up the steering.

15. Test all lighting & horn; clean connections and/or replace bulbs as required.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Wow thanks for that last post. Lots of good ideas I did about half of those already but alot of the stuff I didnt think about. I have been using the manual from the link above very helpful. She leaks pretty good from the primary side after a quick spin around the block. If I look from underneath the oil drips from above the chain and threw it. Also the primary cover leaks when warmed up. So I am looking for a gasket set any good places to get them. I also grabed some gasket material and Silicon thinking it might be easier to make my own.
 

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You're gonna have to pull the primary apart and remove the clutch to be able to replace the seal behind the front main sprocket to get rid of that 'over the chain' leak. You'll need the seal, a sprocket door gasket and a primary cover gasket. As you haven't taken your primary apart yet, it will take you a couple hours and frustrate the crap out of you. The next time will be much easier. Any of the major suppliers stock all of these gaskets and will sell them individually. I usually use Moores.

IMPORTANT: When you take the primary cover off, MAKE SURE you remove the primary chain adjuster (once it's totally loose, use a magnet to extract it) BEFORE removing the cover. The adjuster sits in a cast 'tube' at the bottom of the cover and will crack it if you try to force the cover off ... I've seen MANY covers welded up there ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the tips especially the chain tensioner because that hung me up for a few min I came in to search how to get it off on the computer and you had the answer waiting for me. Any way she is all apart went pretty smooth. You were right about were it is leaking from again thanks. I have a few questions now since I took it apart. The 2 wires that go to the stator pulled out (some swearing was involved) I can solder them back, but am curious if it matters what one goes were? As there is about 1/4 in of wire hanging out of the stator and all the wires are the same color. And final question the 20rollers that fell onto the floor. I see were they go using the parts manual. Is there any trick to putting those back in when puting it back together?
 

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And final question the 20rollers that fell onto the floor. I see were they go using the parts manual. Is there any trick to putting those back in when puting it back together?
Grease ... Put a little glaze of it around the housing where they roll and set them all in place.
 

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heh!

the clutch roller experience!

think of it as a "right of passage" all distinguished triumph owners have in common. finding 'the lost roller' can be quite a challenge. i cheat and have a stash of them in the tool box) btw they should mic out to .250 and all mic the same, if not think about getting a set and putting them in, it'll make your clutch hubs last much much longer. considering the price of new ones this is a VERY good thing!

(keep a clean rag under the clutch)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Now that its sitting waiting for parts I again have a few more questions. The left handle grip there is a red kill switch then a toggle for the blinkers, and then another push button like the kill switch but black. I cant seem to figure out what it does. The right side has the horn and the headlight flash button. Next question why does it need a battery?? Finally want to ask again if any one knows if I can just solder the 2 wires coming out of the stator to either one since they pulled out. Again thanks for all the help
 

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Hi there,
You can solder the stator wires in whatever sense you want. It is an AC output from the stator so it should make no difference. I'm not sure about the 500s but on my 650 the wires are green/yellow & white/green. I'm not sure about the switches (I've never used mine, they're in a box in the garage) but looking inside my L/H the upper button seems to do nothing. I would guess it's easier to manufacture the switches for both the R/H & L/H this way.

Webby
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I just put the new seal in and filled up the gear box and it is still leaking from there?? Did I miss something is there more then one seal in there. I only took out one and the new one I put in matched the old one. Is there a seal deeper in that could need replaced?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It was the primary side the one behind the sprocket behind the cover plate. I pressed the seal all the way in it hits a hardstop and is flush with the engine case. Im not sure I am just kind of guessing here but the inside of the seal looks like it should touch the bearing. And this one did not the old one didnt either when I took it out. There is no level plug just a solid drain plug. The gear box has a dip stick on the gearbox oil cap. Im not sure if this is common either this is my first triumph it is a 73 the frame and motor numbers match and it says it is a 100R on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yeah I knew somthing was wrong as soon as I put it in it didnt look right. It matched the old one is why I am a bit confussed the one that was in there leaked the same way and didnt seal. Any way thanks I went thru the parts manual and found the part number going to order it and hope it is right, but I think I am going to get the same seal. Maybe I will post a few pictures thanks for the help.
 
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