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Discussion Starter #1
My lovely reverse cones arrived and I put them on -
DEEEE LICIOUS! I haven't had a chance to start her up yet, I just put them on, looked at them, smiled and walked away.

Only one problem I noticed: the stand doesn't retract to anywhere near the rubber stopper on the exhaust...
What am I missing here?

I'll put some pics on later...
 

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Do you mean the sidestand or the center stand? On my reverse cones the rubber stop is for the center stand. The sidestand kicks up with a nice "clack" against the underside of the muffler. A sweet sweet sound ('cause it means I'm about to go for a ride). :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah I figured it was for the side stand...
At first I thought what the hell??? but i dawned on me eventually!
Doesn't it clang and clatter though from vibration - metal on metal?
 

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Not that I've noticed. Maybe the Staintunes drown it out. :-D

Seriously... pipes have been on for a couple years and even though it is metal on metal, there's very little indication of any wear. My feeling is if Staintune isn't worried about it, I'm not worried about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, I just went for a hoon in the country side and it was awesome!
What an improvement! Sounds so much better!
I detect still a little 'computer-starting-up' sound - perhaps the snorkel removal will fix that...

I get some backfiring but not very often. It's running a little rich i guess
 

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the backfiring in the exhaust is a sign of you running lean. Even running a lean mixture, your exhaust containes unburnt, for lack of a better word, stuff and the heat wich a lean mixture combusts tends to continue the combustion of this stuff in your exhaust pipe. Please forgive my thought process here, back from a long night of drinking. Anyway, your pipes are more open promoting a free flow of air through the engine but with the same amount of fuel as the stuffy stock exhaust. More air, same fuel, lean mixture.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ah a litttle lean. Does that's bad for the engine isn't it?
I thought it was better to be a little rich than a little lean?
Should I just give the screws a little turn?
 

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Check the Jenks Bolts site (www.jenksbolts.com) for their PDF guide to tuning the Bonnie. This'll give you a good indication of what main jet size to use with your new pipes, depending on other parts of the air/fuel system. Changing the mains is pretty easy, though if you're not into spannering around with the bike your local dealer should be able to do it pretty quickly/cheaply.

You'll more than likely have to go up in main jet size, which will allow more fuel into the mix and make up for your new pipes which are allowing more free flowing air.
 

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Congrats on the pipes,

I have the same ones, and love them. It sounds like you need to re jet though. Otherwise enjoy your new "silencers"
:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
According to Jenks Bolts (with TORs only), I should have:

Main Jet: 115
Pilot Jet: 40
shims: 1
Pilot Screw turns: 2.75
Air Hole: 3.00mm

Stock Standard t100 (2006 with thruxton needle)
apparently has:
110
40
0
2.5
2.5mm

Can anyone shed some light here because all I remember about carbs is there were some notches and you just move the clip up or down a notch in the needle.

What should I do and how should I do it? Please and thankyou

I believe the TORs setting must be much the same as the Staintunes, and since I've got the 2006 I apparently have thruxton needles.
 

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You won't need a shim with the thrux needle.
You can probably get away with the 110s but 115s would be better.
You need D tool to adjust the pilot screws.
There is a mob in Adelaide Show and Go that will sell you jets over the phone and post them out.
I may have some 115s in the shed you can have I will have a look later.
Alos try pullin the snorkel out from the airbox.

Darcy
 

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On 2006-12-11 06:46, DrPangloss wrote:

Can anyone shed some light here because all I remember about carbs is there were some notches and you just move the clip up or down a notch in the needle.

What should I do and how should I do it? Please and thankyou
Just about the best visual guide I've seen online to messing with the Bonnie family's carbs is at Dinqua's site:

http://www.dinqua.com/Triumph/carbs1.html

Dinqua's tutorial is for the America but the T100 has the same carbs. You should be able to get away with leaving the carbs in the bike if you don't mind it being a bit more awkward. If all you're changing is the main jet, it doesn't take long.

You don't say whether the carbs have had the cross-headed float bowl bolts replaced with good quality hex-headed (allen key) bolts, but this is advisable to do at the same time, especially if you think you might want to open the carbs again (say, when you change to a free-flow air filter and up the jet size again).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I called my local triumph mechanic and he said that after installing new pipes all they do is remove the Air Injection and that's it.

He said 9 time out of 10 that richens it up enough to stop backfiring etc.

So, I guess I'll give it a go...
 
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