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I seem to recall it being 40 pieces that get black powder when you restore a classic Bonnie...
New project bike- 1965 T120R
21 - 40 of 58 Posts
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GPZ, that is about what I count but there were a couple of components I didn't send out to the powder coat shop because they were new and already done. A few new components like the left side cover that holds the ignition and light switch, I did send out so it would match. Also, the owner had already bought a new brake anchor plate but I sent the old chrome one and the new one out to be coated. A guy can always sell spares down the road. I admire everyone who repaints their own frame and parts, but for me, to do it right would entail a significant investment and I don't have the space. I did buy a cabinet sand blaster for my other rebuild and cleaned small parts myself before PC, but setting up a good and SAFE paint booth is what I don't have space for. The durability of Powder Coat and the saved labor are worth it for me. I sent out 40 some pieces, they sand blasted off the old chrome or sanded before coating and charged me less than $400, seemed like a good deal to me.
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609 Posts
I made some progress yesterday getting the battery box brackets and oil tank mounted, also the swing arm is in place now. In addition, I put the new tapered bearing kit and triple tree together.
I didn't have all the parts for the battery box brackets when I tore the bike down, so putting it together was quite a bit of trial and error. You would think that something this basic would go together rather straight forward, but all I had to go on was the parts book illustrations and a picture I took of a 64 Bonne for sale at Baxter Cycle (an older restoration). I also have my 66 Bonne (unrestored) but it is a different design so it was no real help. The folks at Meriden made changes every year as these bikes developed, some changes for the better, some for cost savings.
In the end I had to use a couple of old tank mounting grommets from another project. The parts book called for 6 of the correct grommets. The 64 Bonneville had eight and it was obvious that 8 were needed to properly suspend the brackets and limit vibration. I made do with the old grommets which you can obviously see in the foreground of the picture, opposite the oil tank.
This bike will never be a concours show winner, but I like to strive for originality. I just don't want it to look cobbled together...
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bicycle tire Bicycle frame Hood]()
I learned this tip with my other dry frame rebuild, but it is worth mentioning again. Install the lower rear fender bracket on the frame BEFORE you attach the swing arm! If you look closely, I purchased the additional tire inflator bracket and installed it with the fender bracket. It's the small plate behind the fender bracket with the point sticking up along the oil tank side of the frame.
I don't have the tire inflator but maybe a future owner will want one for "correctness". I also thought it may make a difference in rear fender fitment so I bought it.
![Bicycle Crankset Tire Bicycle tire Wheel]()
![Tire Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Bicycle tire]()
Here's the picture of the 64 Bonne I used for reference. The shorter front bracket is flipped around from what I ended up doing on this 65. The parts book shows it facing the way I installed it and it just seemed correct to me. I may have to change it once I actually fit the battery box but there's no mistake which bracket is front and which is rear, they are two different lengths. Therefore, the battery box on my 65 will be facing the other direction from the 64. The holes in the brackets for mounting it dictate this. This 64 Bonne is from the Bobby Sullivan collection BTW...
![Motor vehicle Automotive tire Rim Gas Automotive exterior]()
Lastly, a shot of the triple tree installed with the new tapered bearing kit. I forgot to take any pics of the bearing installed on the lower, not that its very complicated or exciting, but I did have to deal with some overspray on the stem in order to fit the lower bearing. That powder coat is tough stuff and really much thicker than you realize!
![Automotive design Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bicycle handlebar Vehicle]()
Today's plan is to install the rear shocks and the chain guard. The chain guard is another "do this before that"situation. The rims and spokes will be brand new on this bike and are out for rebuild right now. The chain guard installed BEFORE the rear wheel is a must! More later....
I didn't have all the parts for the battery box brackets when I tore the bike down, so putting it together was quite a bit of trial and error. You would think that something this basic would go together rather straight forward, but all I had to go on was the parts book illustrations and a picture I took of a 64 Bonne for sale at Baxter Cycle (an older restoration). I also have my 66 Bonne (unrestored) but it is a different design so it was no real help. The folks at Meriden made changes every year as these bikes developed, some changes for the better, some for cost savings.
In the end I had to use a couple of old tank mounting grommets from another project. The parts book called for 6 of the correct grommets. The 64 Bonneville had eight and it was obvious that 8 were needed to properly suspend the brackets and limit vibration. I made do with the old grommets which you can obviously see in the foreground of the picture, opposite the oil tank.
This bike will never be a concours show winner, but I like to strive for originality. I just don't want it to look cobbled together...
I learned this tip with my other dry frame rebuild, but it is worth mentioning again. Install the lower rear fender bracket on the frame BEFORE you attach the swing arm! If you look closely, I purchased the additional tire inflator bracket and installed it with the fender bracket. It's the small plate behind the fender bracket with the point sticking up along the oil tank side of the frame.
I don't have the tire inflator but maybe a future owner will want one for "correctness". I also thought it may make a difference in rear fender fitment so I bought it.
Here's the picture of the 64 Bonne I used for reference. The shorter front bracket is flipped around from what I ended up doing on this 65. The parts book shows it facing the way I installed it and it just seemed correct to me. I may have to change it once I actually fit the battery box but there's no mistake which bracket is front and which is rear, they are two different lengths. Therefore, the battery box on my 65 will be facing the other direction from the 64. The holes in the brackets for mounting it dictate this. This 64 Bonne is from the Bobby Sullivan collection BTW...
Lastly, a shot of the triple tree installed with the new tapered bearing kit. I forgot to take any pics of the bearing installed on the lower, not that its very complicated or exciting, but I did have to deal with some overspray on the stem in order to fit the lower bearing. That powder coat is tough stuff and really much thicker than you realize!
Today's plan is to install the rear shocks and the chain guard. The chain guard is another "do this before that"situation. The rims and spokes will be brand new on this bike and are out for rebuild right now. The chain guard installed BEFORE the rear wheel is a must! More later....
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609 Posts
If this post is long winded, blame GrandPaulZ! He's the one who said everybody loves to read this stuff LOL! This project is something of a jigsaw puzzle as I have said before. Many of the nuts, bolts and other fasteners were chromed and pretty much all of them have been buggered from using SAE wrenches on Whitworth bits. As a consequence, I'm having to order all new which is good since the project is a full-on restoration, Grade B, as a way of saying it isn't top shelf by any stretch.
I say all this because I had to move on from rear shock mounting and chain guard installation because I hadn't ordered all the needed parts. The Replacement Parts Catalog #3 tripped me up on the rear shocks. It called for 2 washers for the bottom shock mount bolts, PN S25-2, and 2 washers for the top bolts, PN GS308, which I forgot to order. Turns out that both those numbers are for the same washer, now known as 70-8770! I only had 2 washers and needed 4, so I ordered 6 more so I'm covered. The mounting bolts on the earlier bikes have a different head than the later bikes and I wanted it to look correct, so I guess I'd better have the correct washers too. Live and learn....
On another note, I did have a small victory today. My fork lowers were in very poor condition with rusty sludge etc, and I wanted to renew the aluminum sealing washers, which means the restrictor has to come out. Well, my only personal experience with the restrictors has been with my two 1969 models. Those go back together a bit easier than the pre-1968 type. 68 and later, the restrictor has a 5/8" "nut"formed into the base. This allows a deep socket on an extension to hold it in place while you put in the bolt and washer from below. Not so with the earlier bikes. As my pictures show, the restrictor is perfectly round at the base and held in place by the drain plug which has a pin to fit in a slot in the restrictor. So.... there's no good way to hold it down and in place to fit the bolt from the bottom, plus you need to somehow line up the slot with the drain plug hole so the pinned end of the drain plug holds the restrictor in place. Here is what I did and it went amazingly well, both back together in under 5 minutes. First I put the drain plug in with its fiber washer and tightened it only by hand, all the way in. Then I ran a 12 inch long kabob stick up through the bottom hole and put the restrictor on it. The fork lower is about 11 inches so this gives you room to manipulate the stick if needed, but once I had it all set to go, I stood it on a low work bench. Using a flashlight, I watched as I lifted the fork lower slowly and when I was close to the bottom with the restrictor, I turned it until the slot lined up with the pin. Next I carefully let the wooden kabob stick fall away and with my bolt already in a 11/32" socket on a nut driver handle, I gently started the threads, barely putting any upward pressure on the bolt. Once I could feel the threads grab and the socket move into the hole a bit, I knew I had it !
![Parallel Font Slope Tool Office supplies]()
Above, the drain plug (an old one) with its pinned end to hold the restrictor in place. Below, the restrictor on a stick with the slot for the pin...
![Plant Flowerpot Automotive tire Terrestrial plant Engineering]()
I say all this because I had to move on from rear shock mounting and chain guard installation because I hadn't ordered all the needed parts. The Replacement Parts Catalog #3 tripped me up on the rear shocks. It called for 2 washers for the bottom shock mount bolts, PN S25-2, and 2 washers for the top bolts, PN GS308, which I forgot to order. Turns out that both those numbers are for the same washer, now known as 70-8770! I only had 2 washers and needed 4, so I ordered 6 more so I'm covered. The mounting bolts on the earlier bikes have a different head than the later bikes and I wanted it to look correct, so I guess I'd better have the correct washers too. Live and learn....
On another note, I did have a small victory today. My fork lowers were in very poor condition with rusty sludge etc, and I wanted to renew the aluminum sealing washers, which means the restrictor has to come out. Well, my only personal experience with the restrictors has been with my two 1969 models. Those go back together a bit easier than the pre-1968 type. 68 and later, the restrictor has a 5/8" "nut"formed into the base. This allows a deep socket on an extension to hold it in place while you put in the bolt and washer from below. Not so with the earlier bikes. As my pictures show, the restrictor is perfectly round at the base and held in place by the drain plug which has a pin to fit in a slot in the restrictor. So.... there's no good way to hold it down and in place to fit the bolt from the bottom, plus you need to somehow line up the slot with the drain plug hole so the pinned end of the drain plug holds the restrictor in place. Here is what I did and it went amazingly well, both back together in under 5 minutes. First I put the drain plug in with its fiber washer and tightened it only by hand, all the way in. Then I ran a 12 inch long kabob stick up through the bottom hole and put the restrictor on it. The fork lower is about 11 inches so this gives you room to manipulate the stick if needed, but once I had it all set to go, I stood it on a low work bench. Using a flashlight, I watched as I lifted the fork lower slowly and when I was close to the bottom with the restrictor, I turned it until the slot lined up with the pin. Next I carefully let the wooden kabob stick fall away and with my bolt already in a 11/32" socket on a nut driver handle, I gently started the threads, barely putting any upward pressure on the bolt. Once I could feel the threads grab and the socket move into the hole a bit, I knew I had it !
Above, the drain plug (an old one) with its pinned end to hold the restrictor in place. Below, the restrictor on a stick with the slot for the pin...
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Hi Robert,
. Stainless - never goes rusty; even if you're doing a Grade A resto, can be made to look like plated ... but never goes rusty ...
. Restorers of old British engineering (including vehicles and static machinery) are the biggest users of fasteners with obsolete British Standard threads but, in manufacturing terms, the quantities required are miniscule - someone in a given country with CNC machinery can churn 'em out of stainless locally cheaper than a Chinaman can bang 'em out on his specialist fastener-making machines, plate 'em and send 'em to where they'll sell.
They're "the same washer, now known as 70-8770" because it'll do, not what was original - if you want to see at least one original difference, Stainless Steel Fasteners, scroll down towards the bottom, look up the two original part numbers ...
Nevertheless, their 1/16" thickness shown there might not be correct - original washers' thicknesses were more-usually SWG (British Standard Wire Gauge), 1/16" = 0.0625", 16SWG = 0.064" ... however, good luck finding new washers in SWG ...
I went down this particular rabbit-hole several decades ago, when I was building my T100 and the then-girlfiend's C-range bitsa ('66 engine in '60 cycle parts). Some Cycle-thread studs had nuts with different part numbers at each end; British dealers were offering me the same nut for both parts but I discovered the reason for the different numbers was, originally often, one nut was 'normal hex.', the other was 'small hex.' - e.g. 5/16" Cycle nuts could be either 0.525" AF (normal hex.) or 0.445" AF (small hex.). These were both off-the-shelf sizes from fastener suppliers 'til the British automotive industry swapped to Unified threadforms; I think Triumph (and BSA) did different hexs. at different ends of studs so they could be loosened and tightened with different wrenches from the standard toolkit.
You might not consider the washers' differences significant but, as you're ordering all new fasteners, for the same reason you've been supplied the same washer for different part numbers, ime you'll be offered/supplied the same-hex. nuts for different part numbers and the same-length bolts for different part numbers. Incorrect-length bolt for a part number is particularly irritating if you have to cut it shorter - cut end of a plated bolt will rust unless you waste yet more time, say, locating a silver paint that matches the plating ...
Hth.
Regards,
Uh-uh, the parts book is absolutely correct, the two washers have different part numbers because 57 years ago they were different parts; you're being told by dealers they're the same part because they can't afford to stock the two different parts. Certainly here in GB, stocks of plated fasteners in Triumph spares dealers have been decimated by at least two connected reasons:-
. Stainless - never goes rusty; even if you're doing a Grade A resto, can be made to look like plated ... but never goes rusty ...
. Restorers of old British engineering (including vehicles and static machinery) are the biggest users of fasteners with obsolete British Standard threads but, in manufacturing terms, the quantities required are miniscule - someone in a given country with CNC machinery can churn 'em out of stainless locally cheaper than a Chinaman can bang 'em out on his specialist fastener-making machines, plate 'em and send 'em to where they'll sell.
They're "the same washer, now known as 70-8770" because it'll do, not what was original - if you want to see at least one original difference, Stainless Steel Fasteners, scroll down towards the bottom, look up the two original part numbers ...
Nevertheless, their 1/16" thickness shown there might not be correct - original washers' thicknesses were more-usually SWG (British Standard Wire Gauge), 1/16" = 0.0625", 16SWG = 0.064" ... however, good luck finding new washers in SWG ... I went down this particular rabbit-hole several decades ago, when I was building my T100 and the then-girlfiend's C-range bitsa ('66 engine in '60 cycle parts). Some Cycle-thread studs had nuts with different part numbers at each end; British dealers were offering me the same nut for both parts but I discovered the reason for the different numbers was, originally often, one nut was 'normal hex.', the other was 'small hex.' - e.g. 5/16" Cycle nuts could be either 0.525" AF (normal hex.) or 0.445" AF (small hex.). These were both off-the-shelf sizes from fastener suppliers 'til the British automotive industry swapped to Unified threadforms; I think Triumph (and BSA) did different hexs. at different ends of studs so they could be loosened and tightened with different wrenches from the standard toolkit.
You might not consider the washers' differences significant but, as you're ordering all new fasteners, for the same reason you've been supplied the same washer for different part numbers, ime you'll be offered/supplied the same-hex. nuts for different part numbers and the same-length bolts for different part numbers. Incorrect-length bolt for a part number is particularly irritating if you have to cut it shorter - cut end of a plated bolt will rust unless you waste yet more time, say, locating a silver paint that matches the plating ...
Knowing all dimensions of both S25-2 and GS308, certainly here in GB I could source both from a stainless fastener retailer, compromise I might have to accept is 1.5 mm. thickness = 0.059".
Hth.
Regards,
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609 Posts
Stuart,
What you're saying makes perfect sense. I hadn't ever really thought it through and just figured I would be getting the 100% correct parts when ordering. I'm admittedly inexperienced and my goal with this bike, which is only my second complete reassembly, was to avoid using SAE wherever possible in an effort to be "correct". As an example, with the shock mounting bolts, the head of the bolt is distinctly different comparing my 1969 and 1966, both unrestored bikes. When I received the new bolts for my 65 project, they are the same as the 66 in length and appearance. And yes, the nuts I ordered are "large hex" just like the 66 has. It was ordering washers that tripped me up. Any bolt head, nut or washer that shows, I want to look correct.
I don't have a large stash of hardware in my shop so if I don't buy it from a parts vendor, I'm making a list and heading to the hardware store. The downside to this is paying 50 cents for a washer I could have bought for 23 cents at the store. For this project, it made sense, to me anyway, to buy practically all needed fasteners from a parts supplier since this bike was built with "British Standard" hardware before the switch was made to incorporate SAE. (Sorry for the sloppy use of terms!) When I got this bike, it was a partially disassembled rolling project. Much of the hardware was missing, much of it was incorrect, much of it was chromed, and pretty much all of it was buggered up crapola. With new powder coat on the black parts, new paint on the tin and a very low initial investment for the bike, it just seemed to make sense to go the parts vendor route for fasteners. Thanks again for your insight.
What you're saying makes perfect sense. I hadn't ever really thought it through and just figured I would be getting the 100% correct parts when ordering. I'm admittedly inexperienced and my goal with this bike, which is only my second complete reassembly, was to avoid using SAE wherever possible in an effort to be "correct". As an example, with the shock mounting bolts, the head of the bolt is distinctly different comparing my 1969 and 1966, both unrestored bikes. When I received the new bolts for my 65 project, they are the same as the 66 in length and appearance. And yes, the nuts I ordered are "large hex" just like the 66 has. It was ordering washers that tripped me up. Any bolt head, nut or washer that shows, I want to look correct.
I don't have a large stash of hardware in my shop so if I don't buy it from a parts vendor, I'm making a list and heading to the hardware store. The downside to this is paying 50 cents for a washer I could have bought for 23 cents at the store. For this project, it made sense, to me anyway, to buy practically all needed fasteners from a parts supplier since this bike was built with "British Standard" hardware before the switch was made to incorporate SAE. (Sorry for the sloppy use of terms!) When I got this bike, it was a partially disassembled rolling project. Much of the hardware was missing, much of it was incorrect, much of it was chromed, and pretty much all of it was buggered up crapola. With new powder coat on the black parts, new paint on the tin and a very low initial investment for the bike, it just seemed to make sense to go the parts vendor route for fasteners. Thanks again for your insight.
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14,239 Posts
That's a GREAT deal.
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I fully accept the "blame".
This is a very nice thread, with really good photos. Several people will benefit from those shots in years to come. I just saw a 2011 post that's been resurrected 4 times over the years, no telling how many times it's been viewed without replies to resurrect it in between...
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Hi Robert,
Apologies for failing to follow this up sooner.
Only threadforms changed, not thread major diameters; e.g. a 3/8" OD bolt to mount the engine is the same OD on your '66 and your '69, just the former is Cycle thread, the latter is UNF.
So, if Triumph put a washer under the bolt head in both '66 and '69, it's the same washer. If it's a standard washer, the OD is double the ID - e.g. standard 3/8" ID washer is 3/4" OD. Fastener through a washer the same in both, say, '66 and '69, the only reasons for a different part number in different years would be: the washer thickness changed, the washer OD changed, Meriden or Small Heath renumbered the part. If you're really interested in this minutiae, BSA put a part number index in the back of its parts books and dimensions in most washers' descriptions; of notionally 'Triumph' models, Small Heath did the Hurricane and T160 parts books ...
Having checked out part number differences, you'll probably find you can pay 23c at the store for most washers ...
Hth.
Regards,
Apologies for failing to follow this up sooner.Fwiw, when it comes to washers, there wasn't any difference between what was fitted under British Standard-thread hexs. and Unified-thread hexs.
Only threadforms changed, not thread major diameters; e.g. a 3/8" OD bolt to mount the engine is the same OD on your '66 and your '69, just the former is Cycle thread, the latter is UNF.
So, if Triumph put a washer under the bolt head in both '66 and '69, it's the same washer. If it's a standard washer, the OD is double the ID - e.g. standard 3/8" ID washer is 3/4" OD. Fastener through a washer the same in both, say, '66 and '69, the only reasons for a different part number in different years would be: the washer thickness changed, the washer OD changed, Meriden or Small Heath renumbered the part. If you're really interested in this minutiae, BSA put a part number index in the back of its parts books and dimensions in most washers' descriptions; of notionally 'Triumph' models, Small Heath did the Hurricane and T160 parts books ...
Having checked out part number differences, you'll probably find you can pay 23c at the store for most washers ...
Hth.
Regards,
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609 Posts
First off, Happy Thanksgiving! It' has been some time since I have posted concerning the 65 T120. I haven't put much time into the project lately, just waiting for the engine to get a thorough going over by Richter Machining in Marne Iowa. The bike has sat well over 30 years and while I discovered brand new pistons when I pulled the head, the owner and I decided to have everything checked over by a professional. New main bearings will be installed and every component measured etc.
I had Baxter Cycle build new wheels for the project and they turned out beautifully. When the engine is finished, things will go back together fairly quick. I have many new parts already in hand but I'm sure there will be a few more things needed.
![Bicycle Wheel Tire Bicycles--Equipment and supplies Crankset]()
I had Baxter Cycle build new wheels for the project and they turned out beautifully. When the engine is finished, things will go back together fairly quick. I have many new parts already in hand but I'm sure there will be a few more things needed.
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14,239 Posts
Real close to "Rolling Chassis" stage which is always my first assembly phase milestone. I can never help myself, I always roll the chassis out into the light of day and take a snappie...
![Wheel Tire Crankset Bicycle tire Automotive tire]()
The juices really start flowing then...
The juices really start flowing then...
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609 Posts
It has been some time since I posted any updates on this bike and frankly it has been sometime since I worked on it! The machine shop still has the engine, a construction project to add space to his shop set him back in customer work. Added to that, I decided to buy a Trident and subsequently have torn it down for complete rebuild. Now I have two projects going at once! Only real news on the 65 T120 is the owner decided he would be wise to install a side stand lug and side stand. I felt this was the right (and wise) thing to do all along, but the customer is always right, even when he's a good friend and you should have told him to do it before powder coating the frame.... Anyway... it's going to happen and that's a good thing. There are stand lugs available that have an open "U" clamp that I found on the internet, we are strongly considering going that route. If anyone has experience good or bad with these, feel free to speak up! The frame powder coat is another issue. The welding will be done by a professional shop here in my town, stock car racing is big here and a thriving industry of shops have made their home where I live. I truly think it's entirely possible that using the U clamp lug will keep the powder coating damage to a minimum and it may even be that a good paint job over the damage will blend in nicely. All things to be considered when we get there. Finally got around to mounting the tires. The first go around I pinched not one but both tubes! I was more careful the second effort and used some store bought tire bead lube rather than soap and water. Using the tool kit tire irons is a pain, I know, but the small profile and thin blades makes a guy slow down and carefully do the job IMO. So I got the bad tubes out and the new tubes in. It's been 24 hours and the tire pressure is holding!
![Wheel Tire Automotive tire Tread Synthetic rubber]()
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Hi Robert,
Hth.
Regards,
I remove powder coating with wooden furniture restoration paint stripper - that's a gel so can be applied with any size paint-brush and sticks even to a vertical or upside-down surface, it's mild so works slowly - I apply a coat, have a cup of coffee/tea/do another job, wipe off the layer of powder-coat, repeat if necessary - it's water-soluble = it can be neutralised and wiped off with a damp cloth, cloth and brush can simply be rinsed in water.
Fwiw, I found local auto-parts stores had numerous shades of "black", I just tried the testers on a small piece powder-coated at the same time (as the the frame in this case) 'til I found one that matched, I use a touch-up bottle/brush for small areas but you might need an aerosol?
Hth.
Regards,
I repaired the boogered side stand repair on my 66 with a replacement lug from Mitch Klempf. I did this before powdercoating.
www.klempfsbritishparts.com
My repair was similar to what Snakeoil describes in his 66 restoration thread. We cut the lug in half brazed in place, welded it back together, and cleaned up the welds with a dremel. There's a pdf of his thread at the end so you can see the photos. The description of the repair starts on page 128.
The repair ended up looking pretty good, and I'm confident it's strong, but I'd caution whichever lug you choose to make sure the tab on the lug is the same thickness as the opening in your side stand. The opening on my 82-6940 was about 1/8" wider than the tab on the lug. I ended up using a thick washer/spacer to fill the gap. It seems to be working fine, but it was nonetheless annoying after all that work.
Whichever route you take, personally I'd want a side stand.
BTW, I'm the guy over in Ames. I still need to make it over to your place. You do really nice work.
Best - Scot
![Crankset Bicycle frame Bicycle tire Automotive tire Bicycle wheel]()
Klempf's British Parts. LUG, SIDESTAND, 67 & EARLIE
Vintage British Motorcycle Parts
My repair was similar to what Snakeoil describes in his 66 restoration thread. We cut the lug in half
brazed in place, welded it back together, and cleaned up the welds with a dremel. There's a pdf of his thread at the end so you can see the photos. The description of the repair starts on page 128.The repair ended up looking pretty good, and I'm confident it's strong, but I'd caution whichever lug you choose to make sure the tab on the lug is the same thickness as the opening in your side stand. The opening on my 82-6940 was about 1/8" wider than the tab on the lug. I ended up using a thick washer/spacer to fill the gap. It seems to be working fine, but it was nonetheless annoying after all that work.
Whichever route you take, personally I'd want a side stand.
BTW, I'm the guy over in Ames. I still need to make it over to your place. You do really nice work.
Best - Scot
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609 Posts
A lesson learned..... the owner and I got a bit cocky on this project and started in buying parts and powder coating etc before stripping the engine to see what we were REALLY looking at.
![Font Auto part Sculpture Automotive wheel system Helmet]()
Newbie mistake....When starting this project, we found new pistons and a half arsed hone job and figured the rest of the engine would check out. WRONG!!! I always told my kids that the only bad mistake is the one you don't learn from. There's always the chance with any old bike purchase or project, that you'll be unpleasantly surprised . The lesson here is if you have an engine rebuild in the plans for a restoration/refresh, strip the engine first. This happens quite often to we who love old bikes, too often. The only pain in this experience is that the owner will probably be a bit upside down in the investment vs value and I am partially responsible. The rest of the engine is in dire straits, cams are both shot etc, so the rebuild is going to cost WAY more than anticipated. He had been purchasing new parts over the years for this restoration without knowing what condition the engine was in and I jumped right in with both feet and helped him spend more money. The engine will be professionally built and assembled and we will finish the install. For me personally, I have since graduated to doing my own rebuilds going forward, but the owner wants the machine shop to go ahead and finish the build in this case and I will put everything else on the bike, wiring etc...
Newbie mistake....When starting this project, we found new pistons and a half arsed hone job and figured the rest of the engine would check out. WRONG!!! I always told my kids that the only bad mistake is the one you don't learn from. There's always the chance with any old bike purchase or project, that you'll be unpleasantly surprised . The lesson here is if you have an engine rebuild in the plans for a restoration/refresh, strip the engine first. This happens quite often to we who love old bikes, too often. The only pain in this experience is that the owner will probably be a bit upside down in the investment vs value and I am partially responsible. The rest of the engine is in dire straits, cams are both shot etc, so the rebuild is going to cost WAY more than anticipated. He had been purchasing new parts over the years for this restoration without knowing what condition the engine was in and I jumped right in with both feet and helped him spend more money
. The engine will be professionally built and assembled and we will finish the install. For me personally, I have since graduated to doing my own rebuilds going forward, but the owner wants the machine shop to go ahead and finish the build in this case and I will put everything else on the bike, wiring etc...
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609 Posts
An update to this slow rebuild... I purchased a replacement side stand lug from a seller on eBay. He had purchased a piece that Baxter Cycle has for sale and then didn't use it. It is a cast replica that Randy Baxter has a company manufacture for him. It looks just like what is on the bike from Meriden. This bike will not be a show stopper but I was able to get a good price from the eBay deal, much less than thru Baxter. I went down to Baxter and looked over the piece and another option he had for sale. The exact replica looks great and with the larger diameter hole to surround the frame, it looked like the way to go. I will have to drill my own bolt hole but that will be the simple part of the process!
I tried StuartMac's suggestion of furniture stripper to remove powder coat and it worked great. I haven't stripped the frame area of the side stand lug yet but will soon. I got the center stand mounted and put the wheels and handle bars on. It's so much easier having a rolling project even if I decide to remove some components during the side stand lug repair. Honestly I don't think I will have to, just take precautions to protect everything. I'm going to try and just spray can the welded area rather than going thru another powder coat process. I'm anxious to see how the lug install turns out. Fingers crossed!
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I'm hoping the engine will be completed by mid March or sooner. The owner and I have AJ Richter of Richter Machining doing the rebuild. AJ has recently expanded his shop to accommodate 3 large work tables. He can now tear down several "same brand, same displacement" motors to rebuild simultaneously. Prior to his building expansion, he didn't have working space to do this. He can now set up his machine tools and have several of the same engine components to grind and finish etc. I highly recommend him, check him out on YouTube.
I actually have a second bike in pieces right now as well as this 65 Bonne. I am going to do the engine rebuild myself, but why I decided it would be a 1969 Trident is something of a mystery to me! That's its "Spring Gold" fender in the 2nd picture. Having two rebuilds going at once is not what I planned but it's what I ended up doing. It's all just fun anyway so why not go for it all!! I have been photo documenting the rebuild of the Trident so maybe when I start the reassembly I will start a thread for it too. That's all for now....
I tried StuartMac's suggestion of furniture stripper to remove powder coat and it worked great. I haven't stripped the frame area of the side stand lug yet but will soon. I got the center stand mounted and put the wheels and handle bars on. It's so much easier having a rolling project even if I decide to remove some components during the side stand lug repair. Honestly I don't think I will have to, just take precautions to protect everything. I'm going to try and just spray can the welded area rather than going thru another powder coat process. I'm anxious to see how the lug install turns out. Fingers crossed!
I'm hoping the engine will be completed by mid March or sooner. The owner and I have AJ Richter of Richter Machining doing the rebuild. AJ has recently expanded his shop to accommodate 3 large work tables. He can now tear down several "same brand, same displacement" motors to rebuild simultaneously. Prior to his building expansion, he didn't have working space to do this. He can now set up his machine tools and have several of the same engine components to grind and finish etc. I highly recommend him, check him out on YouTube.
I actually have a second bike in pieces right now as well as this 65 Bonne. I am going to do the engine rebuild myself, but why I decided it would be a 1969 Trident is something of a mystery to me! That's its "Spring Gold" fender in the 2nd picture. Having two rebuilds going at once is not what I planned but it's what I ended up doing. It's all just fun anyway so why not go for it all!! I have been photo documenting the rebuild of the Trident so maybe when I start the reassembly I will start a thread for it too. That's all for now....
Joined
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609 Posts
I stripped the powder coat off the side stand lug so I can get a good look at what I will be dealing with. I've been reading @Snakeoil's 66 rebuild to get an idea of what this will entail. Took a measurement from the rear joint of the down tube. The real trick will be the angle for the side stand placement. I don't have any intention of doing anything until I have the new replacement lug in hand. Luckily, I own a 66 Bonne so I can refer to it when needed.
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I thought I would see more evidence of brazing around the collar when I stripped it but all I found were these two tack welds. I am not a welder or metallurgist so if anyone can chime in on how these lugs were secured at the factory, let me know! As I said before, I'm not going to rush in with a grinder or any aggressive action. When I get the replacement lug I will be able to formulate a plan. I do have a very good friend who runs a welding shop specializing in cast iron repair, namely diesel tractor cylinder heads. His shop is about 30 minutes from me so I plan to load the bike up and pay him a visit. This is just not something I have talent or equipment to do. More later...
I thought I would see more evidence of brazing around the collar when I stripped it but all I found were these two tack welds. I am not a welder or metallurgist so if anyone can chime in on how these lugs were secured at the factory, let me know! As I said before, I'm not going to rush in with a grinder or any aggressive action. When I get the replacement lug I will be able to formulate a plan. I do have a very good friend who runs a welding shop specializing in cast iron repair, namely diesel tractor cylinder heads. His shop is about 30 minutes from me so I plan to load the bike up and pay him a visit. This is just not something I have talent or equipment to do. More later...
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