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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Numbers match, got pretty much all the parts, tinware etc. Many parts are chromed, some in good shape, some not, so it’s all coming off.
My buddy bought this bike in 1978 and heard it run but the wiring started smoking so it’s been parked ever since. He’s one of those guys that would find bargains and stash them away. He and I are now both retired and he’s been pulling these old heaps out of the sheds and letting me go to work on them.
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Took the bike down to the bare frame and began inventory of reusable parts. I gave the frame a good cleaning and inspection to see what shape it is in. No cracks or broken welds but I’m saddened by the fact that a PO had cut off the side stand lug. I read Snakeoil’s excellent account of his 66 T120R side stand repair. I won’t pretend to have those kind of skills or tools in my shop, plus I doubt that my buddy wants to go to the effort of having someone do that work. This bike is going to be a nice rider and a good car show bike, not a concourse restoration. If it was, I wouldn’t be the guy doing the job…. Half the fun of the project is deciding what to do! We will give it some thought….
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I really can't decide which way this bike should go. The owner and I originally thought it would be best to go back to original (as close as possible). He had the tin painted several years ago using Don Hutchison paint, Its not perfect but not terrible either. Our local powder coating business does everything from little bits to balcony rails and race car frames. They blasted a rusty chrome piece for us and seemed confident they could handle any chrome removal we wanted done.
My dilemma is that some of the chrome is in very good shape. My tastes lean heavily toward the "stock, factory original" look of these old bikes. All opinions welcomed!
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Numbers match, got pretty much all the parts, tinware etc. Many parts are chromed, some in good shape, some not, so it’s all coming off.
My buddy bought this bike in 1978 and heard it run but the wiring started smoking so it’s been parked ever since. He’s one of those guys that would find bargains and stash them away. He and I are now both retired and he’s been pulling these old heaps out of the sheds and letting me go to work on them. View attachment 786583
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Looks like a good start there Happyfeet. I see you're in Boone, I'm in Des Moines. Any recommendations for a vapor blaster around these parts? I'm in the teardown phase of a mechanical refurb on a 1970 TR6R.
-Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Looks like a good start there Happyfeet. I see you're in Boone, I'm in Des Moines. Any recommendations for a vapor blaster around these parts? I'm in the teardown phase of a mechanical refurb on a 1970 TR6R.
-Dave
No, I've never had anything vapor blasted. I tend toward original, unrestored bikes so never had an engine cleaned up to that extent. I do like the look when its used though! Let me know if you happen to find a place that you find satisfactory!
 

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No, I've never had anything vapor blasted. I tend toward original, unrestored bikes so never had an engine cleaned up to that extent. I do like the look when its used though! Let me know if you happen to find a place that you find satisfactory!
Yeah, I was hoping to just clean the cases and covers, but there is some corrosion that looks worse after soaking in the solvent tank, so I'm still debating with myself about whether or not to media blast the cases, head and rocker boxes. I'll let you know if I can find someone locally that can do the vapor blasting.
-Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I haven't posted for a while so here's a somewhat boring update.:) We decided to go for an original look, so all the chrome except for the steering damper knob is going away. We thought the knob would be a fun reminder of what the bike once was. I got all the new replacement and missing parts ordered that needed to go to the powder coat shop and they are now waiting their turn for coating. There will still be much hardware to order once the bike is ready for reassembly. I ordered the frame bolts that were needed to get started but so many incorrect nuts and bolts were found during tear down that I stopped trying to compile one huge order. I live less than 110 miles from Baxter Cycle and going there is always fun anyway. Richter Machining is a separate business within the Baxter Cycle compound. AJ Richter is giving the engine a thorough inspection. When I pulled the head, I found new pistons and an overbore of 20 thousandths but not I, nor my buddy, have any idea of what else may or may not have been done,( he bought this bike for peanuts in 1978), so best to have a professional opinion. My other basket case rebuild (69 Bonneville) came with a rebuilt engine. It scorched both pistons within 1000 miles due to a botched job on the new slug trap. Finding a new set of pistons in there don't mean squat! I don't own micrometers etc for looking over components, nor do I have a background in mechanics or machining. I'm just an old farm boy who tinkers and I know my limitations. Hopefully, I will have the frame back and assembled before the engine is ready so I can get all the hardware while I'm in the little town of Marne Iowa. I still have rims and hubs that need clean up and new tires to be mounted so still things I can be doing when I find the time. I must confess that I'm not as eager to spend long hot days in the shop, especially since its not my bike. My buddy and I have what amounts to a barter system going. He's not so interested in wrenching as he is in owning a few nice vintage bikes. He's a good carpenter, so we trade work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Time for a quick update on the 65 T120R project. I spent some time today cleaning the Monoblocs. I have really come to respect the Monoblocs. I suppose there are pros and cons to them verses the Concentrics, I’m really not that well read or experienced to say which one is better. I will say that to my eye they appear to be better in construction and serviceability. I was thinking that these carbs were probably worn out and scored but they seem to be cleaning up nicely. I’ve decided to rebuild them and just put in new slides. For the money of a new set of carbs, it’s worth the gamble. I thought about buying the carb soak can for $35-40 but didn’t. Guy at the parts store recommended CLR. I tried CLR on an old concentric body. I didn’t like the result even though it got rid of the grime. I think it harmed the finish by the way my fingers were turning gray and it most certainly would be doing the same to the inside. I don’t recommend CLR for carb cleaning. I also tried a 50/50 mix of Simple Green and water in an Ultra-Sonic, I didn't like the look it gave either, although I think it was less harmful to the metal. I opted for the good old fashioned method of kerosene soak ,carb cleaning spray and a brass brush. All the effort will be worth it if I can save a matched set of 58 year old Monoblocs! I'll post some "after" pics shortly...
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I cleaned up one carb with an overnight soak in kerosene and a bit of work with a brass brush . I just happened to get a $10.00 off coupon from an auto parts store so I’m going ahead and try the Berrymans as per GrandPaulZ. More pictures to follow…
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Here’s another picture of the carbs with the right one having soaked 30 minutes in the Berrymans. Again, to be fair, the left one was given the brass brush after an overnight soak in kerosene and using carb spray on the tough carbon deposits. I think the Berrymans is worth the money. It makes fast work of breaking down the grime and deposits, plus it cleans up with a water rinse. Much less caustic than the carb cleaner in a can. I will be working over both carbs more and post more pictures. I’m not sure about sleeves for these carbs, I purchased new slides and they fit nicely. There’s no deep scoring inside the throats. They look as good as my 66 Bonneville’s Monoblocs and it runs great.
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