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Speed Triple 1200 RS
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Ok, so I just RTFM again.
Looks like I was misled by the dealer when I picked up the bike. I was told that the button on the key was a security thing to prevent someone riding off on the bike while you are paying for fuel. So I assumed that other than that it wormlike my wife’s car’s keys and you never needed to touch it.
Having now read the relevant page of the manual, I have realised that the key needs to be turned “on” when you want to ride the bike and turned “off” when you have finished.
I guess me leaving it “on” all the time has flattened the battery and made it erratic.
So I guess I need to keep it in an outside pocket where it is handy to turn on/off, rather than burying it in an internal pocket.
 

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Ok, so I just RTFM again.
Looks like I was misled by the dealer when I picked up the bike. I was told that the button on the key was a security thing to prevent someone riding off on the bike while you are paying for fuel. So I assumed that other than that it wormlike my wife’s car’s keys and you never needed to touch it.
Having now read the relevant page of the manual, I have realised that the key needs to be turned “on” when you want to ride the bike and turned “off” when you have finished.
I guess me leaving it “on” all the time has flattened the battery and made it erratic.
So I guess I need to keep it in an outside pocket where it is handy to turn on/off, rather than burying it in an internal pocket.
I keep forgetting to turn my key fob off.
Haven't changed the battery and no issues for me.

I would think it wouldn't affect the battery on the fob leaving it on the "on" position.
But could be wrong?


Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk
 

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Speed Triple 1200 RS
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Dead key battery, or faulty key. Probably the former. Triumph USA has instructed dealers to change the key fob battery with the first 600 mile service.
Interesting. I only started having issues since I picked the bike up from its first service.
 

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Speed Triple 1200 RS
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Ok, so I replaced the battery last night, and the key worked fine this morning. Had a great ride in - dry roads for a change, and it’s school holidays, so not much traffic.
Right up to the traffic lights just down the road from work. Then the over temp warning came on, and when I stopped the bike, there were clouds of steam and coolant everywhere.
Pushed her in to the dealer, who, luckily were only about 300 metres down the road. They are doing a pressure test today to see where the leak is, but I have a nasty feeling it’s my fault.
I mounted the fog lights using one of the screws holding the little side fairing on, near the indicator. I thought I was screwing it into a mounting bracket that holds the radiator, but now I suspect it was the radiator itself and the vibration has stressed it and cracked it.
 

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2022 Speed Triple 1200 RS
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733 Posts
Oof, hope your engine is okay. I have just over 300 miles on mine, and I can see hint of oil sneaking out the left side cover seal ... same as my 765 did, lol.
 

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Oof, hope your engine is okay. I have just over 300 miles on mine, and I can see hint of oil sneaking out the left side cover seal ... same as my 765 did, lol.
Yeah, hope so. It gave out close to work, so I parked up, then wheeled it round to the dealer when they opened. Haven’t heard back from them yet.
I assume that any oil leaks are part of the heritage of the brand..
 

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Just heard back from the dealer. They are sending the radiator off to a specialist for repair, but no guarantees he can fix it or how long it will last if he does.
Apparently it will take 6 months to get a new radiator. I’ve emailed a parts specialist in the UK to see if they can supply one quicker.
If anyone hears of a ‘21 S3 being broken for spares already, please let me know!
 

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Gee, that was an expensive and inconvenient mistake. Whereabouts are you?
Yep, very expensive. Won’t be doing that again.
I think I might start a new thread to warn others not to copy it. $770 to get the radiator repaired, $1500 for the replacement.
I’m in Adelaide.
 

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Discussion Starter · #470 ·
Wow, $770 to repair a radiator! Faced with an expensive radiator replacement on the KTM 1290 SDGT I bought last year (previous owner fell down and had the steering damper punch through it) we isolated the 2 damaged rows in the core by tig welding either end. 20 bucks and a carton of beer. Someones having a lend of you mate.
 

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Yeah, Most of that is Peter Stevens labour to strip it down and put it back together again.
Too much hassle now to arrange to get it brought home to do it myself. Unfortunately I don’t have a trailer or even a tow bar on my wife’s car.
If the repair fails then I’ll get it taken home next time and fix it myself.
Still, it’s only money. I can’t take it with me!
🤔
I was just going to clock up 5,000 kms this week, too.
 

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^ Money's a bitch, but it'll be great to get the bike back and ride it. Here's hoping it returns fast with no further problems.
 
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2022 Speed Triple 1200 RS
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Yeah my '18 765 RS came with a faulty radiator (fins splitting both front and rear of the radiator) and the wait was like 4 months. One split started pissing coolant, and the rest were just starting to weep or barely moist. So I took the radiator off, cleaned it up really well, and epoxied all the splits (about 8). Rode it like that until the replacement arrived.

I don't think I could patch up a screw hole though, that's an entirely different repair game.
 

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I dug out the original screws to take in for when they put it back together. I hadn’t looked at them together before
759367

And then it became immediately obvious what I’d done wrong.
When I carefully measured the new screws through the light bracket to make sure it wasn’t too long, I didn’t realise there was a shorter screw waiting to pounce on the other side…
 

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Discussion Starter · #475 ·
Looks like the button heads that go into the threaded bosses on the radiator side to hold the shrouds in place. If you used the longer one in the short boss and punched through into the core it's an easy fix. Get a short grub screw (the same thread of course), coat liberally with 2-pack epoxy and screw in until its where it should normally bottom out.
Leave for 24 hours to cure. Then, cut an amount of thread equivalent to the length of the grub screw off the fixing bolt and reattach. Use washers if needed. Easypeasy.
easyfix.JPG
 

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Yeah, next time I’ll get it towed home.
Unfortunately it’s at the dealer now, and it’ll cost me almost as much to get a bike mover to bring it home as they are going to charge me to fix it.
It wasn’t the screws swapped - I had removed them to mount some fog lights, and measured the new screws against the first one I took out, didn’t notice they were different.
 

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Good thinking @Terry Colley ... I was thinking a DIY fix wouldn't be hard - you got it.
Note to bike designers/engineers (whoever deals with these details): Make the related bolts the same length so little screw-ups like this can't happen.
 
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I was faced with a similar problem on my 2016 sdr around 10,000 miles the top rail split and I couldn't find a radiator repair shop anywhere, m,a replacement was $6-700 and several weeks out so I bought hi temp marine epoxy. The bike has 27,000 miles now and still holding its water
 
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