Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums banner

New 2010 t bird owner, any advice?

3K views 22 replies 12 participants last post by  HomerSimpson 
#1 ·
just bought a 2010 t bird that is beautiful cond has 7,500 miles , alittle concered about thhis knocking noise others are talking about . my old bike was a evo sporty that sounded like a sewing machine at idle. so i am used 2 a noisey engine , can someone tell me when would the valves need adjusted and anyoher maintence issues i need 2 know of , this bike is all stock and is very clean . been looking for this bike for yrs and paid $4300 with tax for it it was nicer than any used hd on the dealers floor. thks 4 any help
 
#2 ·
I bought a 2010 T-bird 1600 brand new as my first bike so I didn't have comparisons to make. I currently have 30K miles on it. It clatters and clanks on a cold start but smooths out in 30 seconds or less. I've never been too concerned, it runs and rides perfectly. Halfway thru the years I picked up a 650 V-storm which is the ultimate little purr machine, but much prefer the rough old sound of the Triumph. I would ask, does it clunk as you run the rpm's up to cruise speed...2-3k rpm? Mine does not...all the noise comes out of the Hoglsayer pipes...up front is just the beautiful sound of those giant pistons gliding in the sleeves. Maybe try putting a high quality oil like Motul in it and see what it sounds like.
 
#4 ·
At the first 2 to 5 seconds you will hear a ticking sound, that's the exhaust decompressors. The valves " should " be checked at 12,000 mile intervals, and they are the shim over bucket type. If the clearance has to be changed you remove the cams and change the shims. It is no way an easy job. Most of the noise many complain about is piston slap an inherit feature on the 1600 and more so on the 1700, apparently it's not harmful just annoying. 20w-50 full synthetic oil helps.
 
#5 ·
Maintenance intervals for Valve checks is 12K miles. I had mine checked at 12 and they were good, no changes, they are due now as I ran it past it's 24K checkup, but it's running smooth and still getting great mileage...on a putt putt ride with a group the other day I got 48 mpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: besty007
#6 ·
My bike has JE pistons and it still does the knock when cold. Nothing to worry about really.
I've never known one to require the valve clearances to be actually adjusted.
Very temperamental with belt adjustment, any skew and it chirps. Triumph dealers usually adjust it too taught putting unnecessary stress on the weak rear hub bearings and transmission output shaft.
A bit of belt slack will also increase the chance of spitting out an ingested stone without major damage.
 
#10 ·
First, congrats on picking up a truly great bike. I'll second linkdog's recommendation for a good quality 20w50 oil; I won't recommend one for fear of starting yet another oil thread. Not only did 20w50 smooth out my engine but my clutch likes it a lot better, too. A bike that age with so little mileage is definitely in need of a complete fluids replacement: brake fluid, coolant and fork oil.
  • The coolant gets replaced at the 12000 mile interval valve clearance check (because you have to drain the coolant to remove tubing to get at the head) but if you're not going to put 5000 miles on it this summer it wouldn't hurt to do it as soon as practical.
  • When you do the first brake fluid replacement, I highly recommend replacing the brake bleed valves with Speed Bleeders; it's a cheap improvement (about $8/each) and really simplifies unassisted fluid replacement. You can get them from a lot of places but if you buy them from fasteddysports.com, you'll get the right ones the first time.
  • Speaking of fasteddysports, Eddy is a TBird rider and came out with an excellent raised oil cap. If yours has the stock oil cap/dipstick, you'll notice that it's a trap for dirt that will fall into the sump if you don't thoroughly clean around the cap before removing it. Eddy's is a two-piece cap that elevates the opening so crap can't fall in when you take the cap off. It's a handsome piece of machining, too.
  • I replaced the factory fork oil after 2 years and it came out like mud. Don't know what they were using but it was pretty awful. Replaced it every 4 years since then and never had that problem again. If yours comes out looking like mud, you'll want to flush the forks with some cheap lightweight fork oil and drain thoroughly before refilling with the good stuff.
  • The two most recurring issues with the Bird are (1) MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) tubes come loose and (2) Belt squeak.
    • Some Birders have just replaced the old two-piece MAP tubing with the newer part from Triumph, some with tubing off the roll at an auto store, some just super-glue and zip tie the tubes to the MAP sensors. If you every experience severe rough idle and/or stalling, check the MAP tubes first.
    • Belt out of alignment causes belt squeak. Some TBirds seem to have this issue more than others. Besides at rear tire changes, I've only ever had to do an extra realignment once (since 2013!). There are lots of ways to do the alignment. I use a laser alignment tool and don't do any measuring; it works for me. Others use calipers and the Triumph alignment tool. All depends on what you're comfortable with. Most of us run with a little more belt slack than specified in the Service Manual.
  • Get a Service Manual. I got mine here: Service Shop Repair Manual It's the Triumph manual at half the Triumph cost.
  • Your bike must have gotten a replacement battery at least once, since 2010. If the battery is more than 4 years old, get it load-tested and/or consider replacing it. Beats getting stuck.
Best of luck with it!
 
#11 ·
First, congrats on picking up a truly great bike. I'll second linkdog's recommendation for a good quality 20w50 oil; I won't recommend one for fear of starting yet another oil thread. Not only did 20w50 smooth out my engine but my clutch likes it a lot better, too. A bike that age with so little mileage is definitely in need of a complete fluids replacement: brake fluid, coolant and fork oil.
  • The coolant gets replaced at the 12000 mile interval valve clearance check (because you have to drain the coolant to remove tubing to get at the head) but if you're not going to put 5000 miles on it this summer it wouldn't hurt to do it as soon as practical.
  • When you do the first brake fluid replacement, I highly recommend replacing the brake bleed valves with Speed Bleeders; it's a cheap improvement (about $8/each) and really simplifies unassisted fluid replacement. You can get them from a lot of places but if you buy them from fasteddysports.com, you'll get the right ones the first time.
  • Speaking of fasteddysports, Eddy is a TBird rider and came out with an excellent raised oil cap. If yours has the stock oil cap/dipstick, you'll notice that it's a trap for dirt that will fall into the sump if you don't thoroughly clean around the cap before removing it. Eddy's is a two-piece cap that elevates the opening so crap can't fall in when you take the cap off. It's a handsome piece of machining, too.
  • I replaced the factory fork oil after 2 years and it came out like mud. Don't know what they were using but it was pretty awful. Replaced it every 4 years since then and never had that problem again. If yours comes out looking like mud, you'll want to flush the forks with some cheap lightweight fork oil and drain thoroughly before refilling with the good stuff.
  • The two most recurring issues with the Bird are (1) MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) tubes come loose and (2) Belt squeak.
    • Some Birders have just replaced the old two-piece MAP tubing with the newer part from Triumph, some with tubing off the roll at an auto store, some just super-glue and zip tie the tubes to the MAP sensors. If you every experience severe rough idle and/or stalling, check the MAP tubes first.
    • Belt out of alignment causes belt squeak. Some TBirds seem to have this issue more than others. Besides at rear tire changes, I've only ever had to do an extra realignment once (since 2013!). There are lots of ways to do the alignment. I use a laser alignment tool and don't do any measuring; it works for me. Others use calipers and the Triumph alignment tool. All depends on what you're comfortable with. Most of us run with a little more belt slack than specified in the Service Manual.
  • Get a Service Manual. I got mine here: Service Shop Repair Manual It's the Triumph manual at half the Triumph cost.
  • Your bike must have gotten a replacement battery at least once, since 2010. If the battery is more than 4 years old, get it load-tested and/or consider replacing it. Beats getting stuck.
Best of luck with it!
First, congrats on picking up a truly great bike. I'll second linkdog's recommendation for a good quality 20w50 oil; I won't recommend one for fear of starting yet another oil thread. Not only did 20w50 smooth out my engine but my clutch likes it a lot better, too. A bike that age with so little mileage is definitely in need of a complete fluids replacement: brake fluid, coolant and fork oil.
  • The coolant gets replaced at the 12000 mile interval valve clearance check (because you have to drain the coolant to remove tubing to get at the head) but if you're not going to put 5000 miles on it this summer it wouldn't hurt to do it as soon as practical.
  • When you do the first brake fluid replacement, I highly recommend replacing the brake bleed valves with Speed Bleeders; it's a cheap improvement (about $8/each) and really simplifies unassisted fluid replacement. You can get them from a lot of places but if you buy them from fasteddysports.com, you'll get the right ones the first time.
  • Speaking of fasteddysports, Eddy is a TBird rider and came out with an excellent raised oil cap. If yours has the stock oil cap/dipstick, you'll notice that it's a trap for dirt that will fall into the sump if you don't thoroughly clean around the cap before removing it. Eddy's is a two-piece cap that elevates the opening so crap can't fall in when you take the cap off. It's a handsome piece of machining, too.
  • I replaced the factory fork oil after 2 years and it came out like mud. Don't know what they were using but it was pretty awful. Replaced it every 4 years since then and never had that problem again. If yours comes out looking like mud, you'll want to flush the forks with some cheap lightweight fork oil and drain thoroughly before refilling with the good stuff.
  • The two most recurring issues with the Bird are (1) MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) tubes come loose and (2) Belt squeak.
    • Some Birders have just replaced the old two-piece MAP tubing with the newer part from Triumph, some with tubing off the roll at an auto store, some just super-glue and zip tie the tubes to the MAP sensors. If you every experience severe rough idle and/or stalling, check the MAP tubes first.
    • Belt out of alignment causes belt squeak. Some TBirds seem to have this issue more than others. Besides at rear tire changes, I've only ever had to do an extra realignment once (since 2013!). There are lots of ways to do the alignment. I use a laser alignment tool and don't do any measuring; it works for me. Others use calipers and the Triumph alignment tool. All depends on what you're comfortable with. Most of us run with a little more belt slack than specified in the Service Manual.
  • Get a Service Manual. I got mine here: Service Shop Repair Manual It's the Triumph manual at half the Triumph cost.
  • Your bike must have gotten a replacement battery at least once, since 2010. If the battery is more than 4 years old, get it load-tested and/or consider replacing it. Beats getting stuck.
Best of luck with it!
First, congrats on picking up a truly great bike. I'll second linkdog's recommendation for a good quality 20w50 oil; I won't recommend one for fear of starting yet another oil thread. Not only did 20w50 smooth out my engine but my clutch likes it a lot better, too. A bike that age with so little mileage is definitely in need of a complete fluids replacement: brake fluid, coolant and fork oil.
  • The coolant gets replaced at the 12000 mile interval valve clearance check (because you have to drain the coolant to remove tubing to get at the head) but if you're not going to put 5000 miles on it this summer it wouldn't hurt to do it as soon as practical.
  • When you do the first brake fluid replacement, I highly recommend replacing the brake bleed valves with Speed Bleeders; it's a cheap improvement (about $8/each) and really simplifies unassisted fluid replacement. You can get them from a lot of places but if you buy them from fasteddysports.com, you'll get the right ones the first time.
  • Speaking of fasteddysports, Eddy is a TBird rider and came out with an excellent raised oil cap. If yours has the stock oil cap/dipstick, you'll notice that it's a trap for dirt that will fall into the sump if you don't thoroughly clean around the cap before removing it. Eddy's is a two-piece cap that elevates the opening so crap can't fall in when you take the cap off. It's a handsome piece of machining, too.
  • I replaced the factory fork oil after 2 years and it came out like mud. Don't know what they were using but it was pretty awful. Replaced it every 4 years since then and never had that problem again. If yours comes out looking like mud, you'll want to flush the forks with some cheap lightweight fork oil and drain thoroughly before refilling with the good stuff.
  • The two most recurring issues with the Bird are (1) MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) tubes come loose and (2) Belt squeak.
    • Some Birders have just replaced the old two-piece MAP tubing with the newer part from Triumph, some with tubing off the roll at an auto store, some just super-glue and zip tie the tubes to the MAP sensors. If you every experience severe rough idle and/or stalling, check the MAP tubes first.
    • Belt out of alignment causes belt squeak. Some TBirds seem to have this issue more than others. Besides at rear tire changes, I've only ever had to do an extra realignment once (since 2013!). There are lots of ways to do the alignment. I use a laser alignment tool and don't do any measuring; it works for me. Others use calipers and the Triumph alignment tool. All depends on what you're comfortable with. Most of us run with a little more belt slack than specified in the Service Manual.
  • Get a Service Manual. I got mine here: Service Shop Repair Manual It's the Triumph manual at half the Triumph cost.
  • Your bike must have gotten a replacement battery at least once, since 2010. If the battery is more than 4 years old, get it load-tested and/or consider replacing it. Beats getting stuck.
Best of luck with it!
thks 4 all the great info , good 2 know about those map sensors , my dad was a USAF helicopter mech all his life , so i picked up a little mech knowledge (lol) . this tbird was hands down better bike then any used HD at the dealer. most uf my friends ride HD. and they love this bike , not many around in my area , i like having something no one else has.
 
#12 ·
This is helpful if you are a diy'er.


As PapaSmurf mentioned, the MAP tubes are a common issue with all Thunderbirds. They are located under the right hand (starboard) side of the gas tank. Even if they look and feel tight, they can leak air and cause all sorts of misbehaviour. If your bike suddenly starts to run badly or is hard to start or dies or does anything weird, check those tubes first. They are the probable cause. The fix is simple--zip ties as hose clamps and you are set.
 
#14 ·
Gday mate just read your post, it’s a question I have asked a thousand times I have a 2015 thunderbird has never missed a beat 70,000 Klm on her rattles like a train goes hard, most of my mates all own Harley’s she has no problem keeping up or blowing them into the weeds but still I don’t know what causes her to rattle.
I am about to pull her apart to find out, my mechanic believed it might be a little end problem or piston slap hope this helps. You have made a great purchase very strong engine and very reliable enjoy I do.

Cheers mate
 
#15 ·
Thks, i look forward to riding this have looked for 1 for awhile, bought this from a harley dealer he didnt know much about triumphs . i didnt want another harley all my friends hav them , this form has a lot of great info on it thks again be safe friend.
 
#20 ·
Best advice i have is if you start thinking about having the big bore kit installed, DON'T ! The clacking issue is mostly if not all on the 1700s. Mine was a 1600 but i had the BB installed. Soon after it was installed the clacking started. If you must have the kit, just install the cams and the 1700 tube. Leave the 1600 jugs/pistons alone. Take it from someone who was plagued for about 60,000 with this curse.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top