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The forks are fairly simple. I've got a lengthy post somewhere in the past. I'll see if I can find it.

Most important tip is to loosen the caps before you pull the tubes out of the trees.

Go with NOK seals. The dust caps usually last forever.
 

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Discussion Starter #62 (Edited)
The wires are colour coded for people like us. Cut, solder, heat-shrink, repeat. Just take it slowly.
:agree

@DaveGPz.... I know roughly what I'm doing and will need to get an assortment of different coloured wires from somewhere..I don't know if I should move the connectors further back and hide them around the air filter or if I should just do away with them completely...
I can only speak for myself, but I end up doing enough assembly/disassembly of my front end that I would definitely keep them. Whether it's swapping bars, tearing down for paint, swapping out a harness or switch set because I've found issues with chafing in one area, it seems like there's always some reason to have it back apart.

However before I start that job I shall be attempting to strip down the forks and replace the inner workings of those tomorrow...
The forks are fairly simple. I think the most difficult part for me was figuring out how to support the bike with the forks off. I ended up using a ratchet strap run through the frame behind the neck to lash the front of the bike to the rafters in my garage. After that...

...Most important tip is to loosen the caps before you pull the tubes out of the trees...
...what he said. There's also a bolt in the very bottom of the slider that takes something like a 6 or 8mm hex (maybe even bigger than that, like a 10mm) that can be a pain if you don't have good leverage and/or an impact driver to break it free initially.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
What I hadn't counted on was that the Rs switch gear doesn't incorporate a throttle cable housing so I have just ordered a pair of handle grips which hopefully will allow me to connect up the throttle cable...
If you decide you'd rather have a stock throttle cable housing, the new bars I've fitted require longer throttle and clutch cables, so I'm getting some Tiger cables off ebay. The set I bought have the Tiger's stock housing and throttle grip included, so I should have an extra set if you end up needing one.
 

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@jaewastooshort....thanks for the offer mate..you never know...

Bit of a dodgey day for my bike today...getting my front wheel off was looking a bit naughty from the start as the hex spindle bolt looked a bit rough and is now knackered and needs replacing...

Not only that but bought a triple tree headstock paddock stand as I was advised it was a good thing to have..no one told me you needed a rear paddock stand as well for it to work properly so it all went a bit pear shaped....

Bikes supported by some wooden blocks at the moment and I've no idea how I shall remove the forks tomorrow.

Not my best day but it could have been avoided....
 

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.... bought a triple tree headstock paddock stand as I was advised it was a good thing to have..no one told me you needed a rear paddock stand as well for it to work properly ....
Well you have a centre stand, so you don't really need the rear paddock stand to work in conjunction with the front stand - the front stand may lift the bike off the centre stand however, and pivot on the rear wheel - if so you can circumvent that by removing the rear wheel first - that should make it stable with the centre stand supporting the rear (& left/right); but as long as the rear wheel is still of the ground when you raise the front end then the stand should give you plenty stability. (the centre stand gives you three points of contact - two rear, one front - whereas if the rear wheel makes contact again, you are back to two - three is stable, two is not! :D )
Another trick for the rear end is to flip the pillion pegs over (so they can't fold) and put blocks (or axle stands) under those.

The biggest detractor for a headstock lift is that you can't remove the bottom triple/steering stem - but you can of course remove the fork legs and I think that was your intended purpose, to service the forks. You won't be able to do the steering bearings however with that lift.

Advance forewarning on the speedo drive when it comes to re-assembly - you need to carefully align the drive oin the drive-plate on the wheel and hold in position while you install wheel into place and put the axle through (get the mrs to help you there to provide an extra pair of hands) - countless people have broken the ceramic rotor magnet when re-installing the wheel.
 

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Since you have a center stand you can raise the front end by placing a floor jack under the headers and raising it just enough to clear the front wheel off the ground. If you use this method it's good insurance to place a strap around the headstock just forward of the fuel tank and sling above to a rafter or like.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Good times... got to take the bike to church yesterday morning as my kids were staying overnight with my parents so my wife and I could go to my British motorcycle club Christmas party Sunday afternoon. I'd been planning on riding the Sprint up to the party, but on my way home from church I managed to lose my bike key. I rode into the garage and went to turn off the bike to find the ignition (still in the "on" position) without a key. Backtracking my path home I was able to locate my key in the road where it had fallen, but I'm pretty annoyed. Guess I'll be pulling the ignition switch after Christmas to try and figure out what's wrong.

I've got to finish the guitar I'm building for my dad for Christmas before I can mess with the Sprint again, so while it's definitely off (this) topic, I'll go ahead and share some pics, in case anyone is interested.

Finally started routing pockets. Approximate locations for the pickups were based on a Fender pickguard.


Making my routing template for the neck pocket based on the pickup locations on the (import) Fender body.


Approximate component locations during test layout
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Finally got out and checked out the stator and changed the oil this weekend. Decided to do the charging system tests since I was warming up the bike anyway. Resistance and continuity tests across the three poles all looked good. Couldn't get an AC reading across them with the bike running, but that may have been user error. I'm getting nothing out of the regulator, so I just ordered an SH847 regulator (OEM part for '15 Suzuki DL1000, part no. 32800-31J00). I am planning on direct-wiring everything once it comes in and tests good. If I've still got an issue I'll address the stator later.
 
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