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Discussion Starter #1
This is my second '06 Sprint ST. Lost the first one in the flooding from Harvey in '17 and picked this one up as a replacement back in '18. Since I've been documenting this one since day one, I figured I would make a build thread to share what I've been up to.

First off, the permanent (I hope) album link where all the pics will end up. Go here to see things full-size, as I'm not doing all the url tagging to just click the pic. https://imgur.com/a/SZcaAPr

The bike when I got it:


Wasn't planning on repairing the damaged fairings, I liked my other one naked, and it's not too difficult to make the mods necessary.


Got the Two Brothers exhaust on that I'd pulled off the old Sprint... had to do something to replace that stupid GP-style tip they put on the end of the mid pipe under the tail.


There was a lot of wiring, normally tucked into the front fairing, that I had to deal with once I got the headlight and mini-fairing placement sorted...


...quite a bit. It all tucks inside the frame around the air box nice enough though.


While scared up, the stator cover at least did not need to be replaced. I sanded it out and added some R&G sliders on both sides.


With everything back together it was ready for road-worthy inspection and registration.
[/QUOTE]
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Next thing to address was the coolant overflow reservoir. I really liked having the Lone Star beer can as the overflow on my Venture, but wanted something a little more professional. Enter the aluminum water bottle. Shaved the lid and drilled it to run a hose through to the bottom of the can, then put another toward the top on the side as an overflow vent. The few of you who saw my thread on my old Sprint from 2015 may remember this mod from that bike. Eventually (hopefully soon) I'll do these a little more correctly using some threaded brass fittings. Anyway, mounted the bicycle bottle cage, cut up a Lone Star can, and this was the result.


Bike badly needed a front tire and the forks felt awful. I decided to tackle both while the front wheel was off anyway. Progressive fork springs were added along with new fork oil (once everything was cleaned out), and tapered steering stem bearings were installed to replace the original ball bearings.






 

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Discussion Starter #3
While rebuilding the forks I found out one of the tubes was slightly bent. Very annoying, and helps explain why the forks felt like they were binding a bit occasionally, so I did the prudent thing and just put them back together with the new sliders and seals, then back on the bike to continue riding on them for another year. You can see the bend here, on the far right. Not too drastic, but definitely there.


Needless to say, it wasn't confidence-inspiring, so I recently set about locating a set of Hayabusa forks to swap in. Whoops, spoiled it in the previous pic. Triple tree clamps were from a TL-S. Another new set of tapered head bearings (no way I was getting the lower bearing off the Triumph stem without destroying it).

When I started receiving parts


Comparing length, as guys do


Bike seems supported well enough...


Hmm... that tab on the neck might be useful.


Stock front end coming apart for the last time


Snap of the fingers, and ALL DONE! (I wish)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Had to drill the TL-S top clamp in order to run a standard bar setup.


I pulled these risers and bars off another bike that's partially disassembled, but they won't be used in the long run...


I had to do a little work to get the front wheel spaced properly. The Sprint used offset spacers on the front axle (to accommodate the ABS ring on models so-equipped), but the Busa front end was set up to have the front wheel centered. Cutting down the Sprint spacers to the right width worked out just right.


Testing fit and measuring before cutting the second spacer


How did I trim them without a lathe? Made my own out of a cordless drill, a bench vise, and the wheel balancing setup for the triumph's rear wheel. Just press the two tapered spacers into the wheel spacer as tight as I can, tighten the set screw, and cut along the Triumph-supplied groove with a hacksaw held stationary while the drill turns the shaft. The fitting held in the vise has bearings to support the shaft.


Onto the finer details...
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I wanted to be able to use the steering damper in its stock location, so I decided to make a bracket to attach it to that tab on the steering neck. Yes, it looks really bad, but don't worry, we're far from done. Consider this just "proof of concept".


Looks like it'll work to me.


What other details do we need to address? Ignition switch doesn't really get close to fitting the TL-S upper. Had to trim the mounting posts on the top clamp by about 15mm and take another 15mm or so off the steering lock and ignition switch housing because it sits so much closer to the neck now. Those numbers may be off a bit, I honestly can't remember the original length of the parts I cut down. I started with the measurements listed in the fork swap thread, or as near as I could approximate by marking with a Sharpie and using a dremel and file, but ended up doing the measure/cut/test fit cycle 3 or 4 times over two evenings before everything fit as it should.


Got it pretty damn close.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
The ears I had for the 7" round headlight were designed for 35-39mm fork tubes and are not going to fit the 50mm Busa uppers. I decided to try out a fixed headlight setup that would tie in with the steering damper. Figured the more I can kind of tie in together, the stronger it would all be.

Making the base flanges for the headlight ears. You can also see here how the steering lock was rubbing while I was test fitting to see if I'd cut it down enough.


Oh yeah, also decided that I wanted to do some ProTaper style bars, so I got myself some 1-1/8" bar risers and a set of bars that looked like they might land about where I want them. We'll see how they fit me once I get the bike back on the road.


A little cardboard-aided-design to help me out with placing the headlight bucket in relation to the forks and mounts




Coat hangers are easier to bend than 3/8" solid rod
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I took a short break from the headlight to do the mount for the auxiliary LED light bar when it came in. I was never particularly happy with the light output from the stock halogen bulb in that 7" housing, but until I decide on what to replace it with, I figured I'd add an auxiliary light.




Pretty happy with this fitment.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Back to mounting the headlight... ended up reusing part of the bracket I'd made to mount the stock gauges on the old setup. I'm not going to provide too much other commentary here, pictures should speak for themselves.















Ok, I lied, I can't stop commenting. Was really happy with the headlight bucket placement, but it needed a third point of contact to set the vertical light cut off, which means it'd also better be adjustable.


I don't have a clue where that spring came from, but it ended up being the perfect size to provide a firm, yet compliant force on the headlight without having to use double nuts at each contact point on the adjustment bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I got the headlight mounts wrapped up and installed back on the bike this weekend. Got the mounting nuts tacked on, sharp corners rounded off on a grinder wheel, and cleaned up the remaining welding slag/spatter and edges with a flapper wheel and then primed/painted all the pieces.







About time to start body work so I can get the tank, belly pan and tail plastics painted.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
One more minor bracket down. Needed something to support the brake fluid reservoir on the handlebars, as the original mount was secured on the stock clip on.












Anyway, here's the bike as she sits this morning.


Got that bracket painted last night, but forgot to get a pic. I also ordered a set of Speed Triple gauges this morning that I'll be mounting as soon as they come in (and I verify they work with this setup). I've been watching ebay and waiting for a set to pop up for sale for several weeks and this is the first one that's been relatively clean and under $500.



Oh yeah, finally skinned my coolant reservoir as well.
 

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I also ordered a set of Speed Triple gauges this morning that I'll be mounting as soon as they come in (and I verify they work with this setup). I've been watching ebay and waiting for a set to pop up for sale for several weeks and this is the first one that's been relatively clean and under $500.
Similar road to the one I'm travelling! Hopefully your ST is early enough that the dash and ECU aren't doing the canbus handshake that caused me so much grief. I needed the Speed Triple ECU as well.

Nice work!
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Similar road to the one I'm travelling! Hopefully your ST is early enough that the dash and ECU aren't doing the canbus handshake that caused me so much grief. I needed the Speed Triple ECU as well.

Nice work!
Thanks! I saw your post earlier about using an S3 ECU with a Sprint, but I have no knowledge regarding internal component differences between the two engines and what exactly might affect the tune each receives. This is one of the first sport-style bikes I've had on which I seem to find NO information on people stripping them down to naked configuration, which surprises me considering how many seem to be out there.

The first '06 I bought came to me without any gauges hooked up and ran fine. I seem to recall having started this one (also an '06) before without gauges hooked up, so I figure if it will run with no gauges it should run with the wrong one as well.

I found a thread on the S3 sub-forum where they were talking about using gauges from the newer 1050 S3's on the old (pre-'07) 1050 S3's and it sounds like they found them to be backward-compatible with the non-handshake ECU. I was really hoping that was the case, but I was nervous about it and passed on some of the cheaper (damaged, but functional) ~2012 S3 gauge sets I found and waited for something from a much closer year.

It's still a waiting game at this point, the gauge should be in my hands by Monday evening.
 

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If it ran without the dash, you'll be fine I think. Slightly jealous, given the hassles I've had :faceplant
 

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Nice work so far! :thumb

.... I had to do a little work to get the front wheel spaced properly. The Sprint used offset spacers on the front axle (to accommodate the ABS ring on models so-equipped), but the Busa front end was set up to have the front wheel centered. Cutting down the Sprint spacers to the right width worked out just right..
... Ignition switch doesn't really get close to fitting the TL-S upper. Had to trim the mounting posts on the top clamp by about 15mm and take another 15mm or so off the steering lock and ignition switch housing because it sits so much closer to the neck now. Those numbers may be off a bit, I honestly can't remember the original length of the parts I cut down.
All of that info is in the sticky thread .......
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Nice work so far! :thumb

All of that info is in the sticky thread .......
Indeed it is. I would say that "the numbers didn't work out exactly right" for me, but it's more likely my use of a ruler to measure, sharpie to mark, and angle grinder and file to make the necessary cuts (instead of calipers and end mill or lathe) that led to my initial cuts not being quite right.

I have to admit, I copied/pasted previous posts that I had made on a different not-Triumph-specific motorcycle forum to make it a little quicker to get up-to-speed on this thread.


Anyway, I got a little discouraged last night. Couldn't get the bike to start. I'd gotten the battery back in on Tuesday night and hooked up the tender so it would be ready to fire up on Wednesday. Got about 2 gal of gas back in the tank. Cycled the fuel pump several times, and getting crank/no start. Thinking maybe it was the handshake issue with the cluster, I hooked the original gauges back up and still no start. :| Oh well, guess I'll mess with it again tonight. It's probably time for new plugs anyway, so if I can find my stash of new plugs and still happen to have the right ones I may go ahead and swap those out.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Got the bike running on Saturday night. Seemed likely that it was a fuel problem, so I pulled the pump assembly to double check everything since I'd had it apart since it last ran. Sure enough, I had one o-ring that got distorted during reassembly and it appears that I just wasn't getting any fuel pressure. Re-assembled correctly and the bike fired right up.

I also verified that the bike starts fine with no gauges, so I did a quick test fit of some new parts that came in Friday and Saturday:

new micro-shield/windscreen:


S3 gauges need a bit of attention and polish:


bar end mirrors:


Comparing the S3 gauge cluster size to the original Sprint gauges:


S3 gauges work, if a bit quirky. High beam indicator is always on, though dimmer when the low beam is on, and I'm not sure that all 3 buttons are working right now. Need to do a bit more reading about how they're supposed to work and verify that, but as of right now I can't seem to get it to change to a trip odometer.


I really like the feel of the Hayabusa forks, but I'm not a huge fan of these handlebars... as I figured, they're just too wide for my taste. I tried fitting some clubman bars I had sitting around as well last night, and aside from cable length issues, I don't think they're going to pull back nearly as far as I'd hoped. I'm debating between buying a set in a "superbike bend" or getting a Triumph OEM bar from a Speed or Street Triple or Tiger.
 
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Is your headlight LED module? that is probably why the light is glowing when on low beam - install a pull-down resistor to ground on the high beam indicator wire and should resolve that. I think about 1K should suffice
(You could alternatively fit a series diode on the feed to the high beam lamp input but would have to be high current rated for full operating current of the lamp)

The switches left to right should be Scroll Set & Trip respectively
The trip button toggles between total odometer miles and two different trip 1 & trip 2 records (the latter two being re-settable)
To reset the trips, select the one you want on the display then hold trip & set buttons at same time. You should be able to reset each trip independently.

Scroll toggles display through clock and fuel consumption modes etc

To reset the clock, select clock on display then scroll & set together, hour will flash then use scroll to increment the hour setting; then 'set' and repeat for min setting

You can also set the shift lights ........
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Is your headlight LED module?
nope, just a single H4 bulb in a 7" housing... but having only one bulb hooked up in a circuit that expects two halogen bulbs in stock form might still be enough to do it.

The trip button toggles between total odometer miles and two different trip 1 & trip 2 records (the latter two being re-settable)
To reset the trips, select the one you want on the display then hold trip & set buttons at same time. You should be able to reset each trip independently.
Same as on the Sprint cluster then. That was how I expected them to function but I get no change when pressing the trip button, just always the total odometer. I'll have to pop open the housing and see if there's any corrosion or anything that needs to be cleaned up.

That's really good to know about the programmable shift points as well. I don't know who set them previously but it went all the way to the first red light around 4,500-5k rpm when I revved it up the first time.
 

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nope, just a single H4 bulb in a 7" housing... but having only one bulb hooked up in a circuit that expects two halogen bulbs in stock form might still be enough to do it.... .
No - it happens with LED because there is some bleed-through back through the module; there shouldn't be any way to have that occur with your incandescent module as the only common connection is ground. The high signal should be totally isolated - only possibility is that the H4 connector is wired incorrectly.
(two bulbs vs one makes zero difference in that regard)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Wasn't an issue with the high beam indicator on the sprint gauges, so there may be an issue with the S3 gauges. Danger of buying 12 year old 2nd hand parts being sold off of wrecked bikes.
 
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