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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was out and about today, stopped by my brother's place to show him the bike (2008 Bonnie Black that I bought used with 17 miles on the clock), the first thing he does is point to the tire and ask, "What's that?" about a bolt that's sticking out of the front wheel!

:(

Luckily the tire still had pressure and I was able to drive it to the dealership. $75 later I was back on the road.

I'll use this as an opportunity to ask some noob questions. I've used the search function on this site to answer some of them, but others keep cropping up.

1. Regarding break in, at what point can I ride at the same speed for an "extended period"? And what constitutes an "extended period" anyway? I want to take a short (90 mile) trip up highways 30 and 4. Can I do 90 miles at speeds ranging between 40 and 60, or do I need to wait until after the first service? I have 200 miles on my bike.

2. How the F do you remove the seat?

3. Regarding bafflectomies. Honestly, how doable are they for someone who is only marginally mechanically inclined? I've read a few of the threads and it appears somewhat daunting. Secondly, does one need to re-jet after performing one?

4. How often do you lube the chain? The manual says every 200 miles. That seems like a lot. And what kind of lube do you use?

5. How do you adjust the chain tension without a centerstand or sidestand of some sort?

I'm loving the bike a lot. I find myself missing the tachometer, and I just found out from newbonneville that I'll need to wait at least 2 weeks for the renntech grab rail/rack unit, but other than that, it's perfect.

Thanks in advance for any help.
 

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1. Regarding break in, at what point can I ride at the same speed for an "extended period"? And what constitutes an "extended period" anyway? I want to take a short (90 mile) trip up highways 30 and 4. Can I do 90 miles at speeds ranging between 40 and 60, or do I need to wait until after the first service? I have 200 miles on my bike.

2. How the F do you remove the seat?

3. Regarding bafflectomies. Honestly, how doable are they for someone who is only marginally mechanically inclined? I've read a few of the threads and it appears somewhat daunting. Secondly, does one need to re-jet after performing one?

4. How often do you lube the chain? The manual says every 200 miles. That seems like a lot. And what kind of lube do you use?

5. How do you adjust the chain tension without a centerstand or sidestand of some sort?

I'm loving the bike a lot. I find myself missing the tachometer, and I just found out from newbonneville that I'll need to wait at least 2 weeks for the renntech grab rail/rack unit, but other than that, it's perfect.

Thanks in advance for any help.
#2 - look under the tail of the seat for two bolt - they are allen heads

#3 - Word is that 2007/2008 mufflers are not canidates for bafflectomys as I understand, the mufflers are constructed differently.

#4 - 500 miles or so, 200 miles seems paranoid. See also: scottoiler

#5 - You can do it with a canyon dancer and some ratchet straps if you have a frame such as a garage door track.

Welcome!!
 

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Breaking in modern engines is largely a thing of the past. ride it as you intend to ride it in the future. I wouldnt flog it, or baby it, 60mph is not at all loading the engine just dont sit at one speed for the whole trip. Of course opinions on this subject vairy but in 35 years of riding and breaking in 10 new bikes Ive never had a bike with a premature failure or high oil consumption. What ever makes you feel good I guess.
 

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I clean my chain about every 300 miles with a rag soaked in kerosene, then I lube it with this stuff...

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/dupont-teflon-chain-saver/

You can buy it at Lowes for about four bucks a can and it doesn't fling off onto your rear wheel like some of the other lubes I've tried. You would probably be OK stretching the interval out to 500 miles or so, but these bikes are fun to be around and they call to you from the garage. Mine says "you know theres nothing good on TV, come to me and clean my chain". My wife never hears it which I find odd, because it's usually quite loud.:suspicious:
 

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Running-in

Running-in any motor properly makes all the difference to long term performance and smoothness, even with modern machining methods. You can rev it high, but never with full throttle or for prolonged periods, also never lug them up hills, get into a lower gear and keep revs up using low throttle.

The ideal running in regime - You need the revs to free things up and make sure there are no high spots but not loading the engine by giving it too much throttle.

It was always suggested to me that the actual revs are not a problem within reason as long as the load on the engine is not high, so running along on half throttle down hill at near max speed is better than lugging up a hill in top "keeping the revs down" !

Heat build up is the enemy when running in. If you do a long run while running-in, vary your speeds and stop once in a while to let things cool down.

There's a school of thought that recommends full throttle occasionally for short bursts during the initial period of running-in. This is to ensure that combustion gasses get well behind the piston rings and force them onto the cylinder. This removes the last of the machining roughness and beds the cylinder and piston rings in properly.
Failure to do this means that the cylinder walls will glaze over and cylinder pressures and therefore compression will be lost in the future. No real damage, but lower performance.

Make the engine work, but don't let it slog and don't hold full throttle for too long. Increase the work load gradually and let the engine rev or even reach high speeds on downhill stretches and light throttle openings.
The art of running-in is to keep the motor "happy". To do this, free use must be made of the gears.
The accent should be on gradually increased work loads until full throttle is obtained.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Another question that has cropped up.

I read somewhere (the manual, perhaps?) that I should be using 89 octane gas. Other than an absentminded half tank of 87, I have been doing so.

Where I live, 87 is regular, 89 is medium and 91 is premium. Has anyone switched to the cheap stuff after a few thousand miles? Or after re-jetting to a richer mixture? If so, results?

Secondly, my bike seems to make a very quiet clicking noise... a bit like a fingernail tapping on something lightly... in rhythm with the engine. That's not knocking, is it? Is it just a part of the knitting needle/sewing machine noise of a stock bike that I should expect? Is it the valves clicking? Or something else out of the ordinary?

Just want to make sure it's normal and not anything I should be worried about.
 

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Another question that has cropped up.

I read somewhere (the manual, perhaps?) that I should be using 89 octane gas. Other than an absentminded half tank of 87, I have been doing so.

Where I live, 87 is regular, 89 is medium and 91 is premium. Has anyone switched to the cheap stuff after a few thousand miles? Or after re-jetting to a richer mixture? If so, results?

Secondly, my bike seems to make a very quiet clicking noise... a bit like a fingernail tapping on something lightly... in rhythm with the engine. That's not knocking, is it? Is it just a part of the knitting needle/sewing machine noise of a stock bike that I should expect? Is it the valves clicking? Or something else out of the ordinary?

Just want to make sure it's normal and not anything I should be worried about.
'09 EFI here, and mine 'clicks' a touch too. just hit 800 miles, but I wouldn't worry about it. If you notice that when you hold your legs to the tank it stops... =)
 
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