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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My name is Chris, I'm just dropping in to introduce myself and my bike to to everyone! I recently purchased my first triumph, a 2005 Speed Triple. I bought her at a lien auction and she needs a lot of work to be road worthy, but for the price I couldn't pass her up. Hopefully I learn a lot here! First order of business is to get a key, on this bike is there a location with the keycode? On my EX250 it was behind the helmet lock.



Today I purchased my second street bike ever, A 2005 Triumph Speed triple. I got her at a Lien auction for the price of 950 USD, with a supposed odometer reading of 17,000 and supposedly running and driving.



Is this factory wiring? I assume this is the starter solenoid?



She seems a little beat on, but nothing that can't be fixed, I hope.



A switch was installed to manually control the fan, it turns on and the battery has enough power to run the fan. There's an unplugged connector underneath the tank that I have to go in and figure out what it does, and another white connector with two jumper wires. I have a feeling this project is going to be "interesting".



A two brothers exhaust was installed but doesn't seemed to be made for the bike, some holes in the pipe.
 

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Welcome aboard, Sir, you've come to the right place. The solenoid appears to be stock, but it looks like it has come out of the rubber retaining strap. Those are not the stock rear footrest mounts, they should be curved.

I'd say your first order of business should be to buy a manual.

Then return that switched fan back to stock!

Good luck,

Flash
 

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Can't complain at that price, with a bit of time and money you'll have a great bike there. Fingers crossed it starts up when you get the key sorted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I can't seem to find any info on the key code on this bike, I assume my best bet will be to take off the ignition switch or gas cap and try and have a locksmith make a new impression?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I couldn't figure out how to get the gas cap off, but I did get the ignition switch off. Is there another bolt hidden besides the hex bolts to get it off? I also jumped the wires from the ignition to allow me to attempt to start the bike, it cranked for about 3 seconds but now it will only spin the motor. Has my sprag clutch gone out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It appears that the sprag clutch is okay for now, after rolling her around in gear I got the bike to crank. No tank on to see if it would fire up, I think I might have even heard spark!



How I'll be turning her on for testing until I get my key in.

 

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I couldn't figure out how to get the gas cap off, but I did get the ignition switch off. Is there another bolt hidden besides the hex bolts to get it off?
Yes - there's one final bolt under the cap.


I also jumped the wires from the ignition to allow me to attempt to start the bike, it cranked for about 3 seconds but now it will only spin the motor. Has my sprag clutch gone out?
You need a well-charged battery, preferably new, to get it to spin over properly. Lugging it on an old, poorly charged battery will damage the sprag clutch.

Try jump-starting it off a known good battery, the one off your truck or RV if you have one :)

If it still doesn't 'catch' you're likely looking at a new sprag clutch. Sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The next installment of our build.

Anyone have any idea why there would be, what appears to be two shrink wrapped resistors in this connector? It goes into a loom along the right side of the frame.



I also found this disconnected connector, but can't seem to find the connection point. Is it in use on this year of the bike?



Do you guys recommend any products for cleaning the bike up that won't harm the finish of the engine or the wiring?

When I took the airbox off there was not a filter inside. Lets hope nothing too damaging occurred.

Is the gas tank supposed to leak from the two hose attachment points? I had to store it propped up otherwise gas would flow pretty freely from them.

I think I'm going to start ordering the parts I'll need to get her street legal for when the title comes in, as well as some other parts.

On the buy list -

-Air Filter
-Oil & Oil filter
- New Levers
- New pegs, as they don't grip my boots well and are bent
 

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You'll really gunna need a shop manual for now & later .....best get it now as it'll be invaluable ! It contains a wiring diagram and your in need of that now too ! The white plug you show could be the o2 sensor line with an after market O2 bypass plug in it. You'll need a wiring diagram to see/ comfirm if the harness wires to the O2 sensor are the one's with that White plug attached & if there not the wire colour coding & a wiring diagram will give you the answer your seeking . In relation to your other question .......there is a Grey Plug exactly where your one is found & from the factory it is to be found open & un-connected as yours is ! I suspect it's a connector for maybe a factory fitted extra or future addition of some description....but I'm only guessing that. Good luck ....thats a lot of bike for just $950 US . Even if you have to spend another $1500. to get it sorted, it will still be a cheap S-3 . Hope it runs alright for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah I got the manual and got it all figured out, I tried to crank it over today and it seemed like it wanted to start, but then the battery started dipping so I let off, don't want to kill the sprag clutch, I don't hear any strange noises I hope it doesn't give out. For some reason there was no air filter, which is concerning. Should I switch to a K&N or just buy the OEM? There's a jerry rigged two brothers on the bike. I want to drain the tank but it doesn't seem like there is any other way to take off the gas cap until I get a key unfortunately.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Definitely! I had a key made that makes the ignition switch go from off to on, but the lock is destroyed. The gas cap lock was completely inoperable, i drilled it and got the screw out from underneath it. some plastic crud fell in the tank which will be a pain to clean up. I think the battery is no good, going to take it to the auto shop and see if they can tell me. The starter is just spinning again, it was cranking for a while but I gave up after it started doing that. No strange noises, so hopefully just a bad battery. I ordered a keyless cap and new levers.
 

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I saw some keyed ignition and seat releases going for around 150$ on ebay, could be a good buy. Your white connector with shrink tubed resistors look exactly like the o2 sensor bypass on my bike. Like previously said, the gray loose connector is meant to be unplugged. When I bought my k&n air filter it was cheaper than OEM, so might be worth looking for it.

Welcome aboard, you got yourself a nice bike!
 

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The gray connector looks like the evap cannister, which your bike may not have had if not a California model. The other I'm also guessing is O2 sensor, which I'd either leave unplugged with no resistor and tune out the code with TuneECU or reinstall the actual O2 sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
So my sprag clutch is toast I think. tried jumping it off of a car and the only thing that happens is the starter motor spins without engaging anything. I've tried moving it in gear like i did last time to no avail. I've tried to bump start it, i get some spark and a few cycles but I can't get the bike rolling fast enough with one person to start it. What's the difference between these two items?

http://triumph.goaz.com/p/Triumph_2...ml?partner=googlebase_adwords&kwd=&origin=pla


http://triumph.goaz.com/p/Triumph_2...ml?partner=googlebase_adwords&kwd=&origin=pla

Which one will I need to replace my sprag clutch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Starting to do body work on the side fairings, tank, and front fender. Put some new levers on, ran the bike a little and discovered some new issues. It looks like the alternator cover has been broken and repaired, numerous times. It's leaking again and I can't for the life of me find the leak, going to let it sit with some water upside down and see if i can find the issue and repair it, if it isn't coming from a bolt hole. There is a leak from behind the sprocket cover, from the research I've done I'm hoping it's just the output shaft seal. Would anyone here happen to have a used alternator cover that they'd be willing to part with? Thanks guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So I've been away on a long hiatus, and managed to finally get back onto working on this thing. I had a bad accident, (mandibular fracture, ribs, femur, but not bike related!) and the weather has cooled enough to finally start putting in some work. The sprag kit I received definitely seemed even larger than pics of the old style and new style seemed to show. A good bit of grinding had to be done to the right engine cover to get it to fit, but she starts under her own power! I took tons of pictures of each step of the process, and dimensions for the two sprag holding tools I made, if anyone is interested in a step-by-step. The stator cover still leaks, so I'm on the hunt for a cheap replacement.

After startup, bike felt a bit odd, like it had a vacuum leak. Saw this guy sticking out from underneath the airbox. Can anyone help my identify where it's supposed to connect?



I plan to get tuneECU setup with my android phone, to try and sort the issue with the fan. The PO had wired the fan directly to the 12v. I'm going to have to go through the wiring diagrams and figure out what could cause the fan system to fail, besides the relay and the temp sensor.
Previous owner had also hacked up the undertray a ton to fit....A boat battery? I removed the battery and all the relays/fuse block/R/R and plan on building a flat undertray to clean up the rear a little more, and a new box for the batteries and electronics. Whatever kind of battery it was, it's huge and weighs quite a lot. Is there any reason to run a battery larger than stock? Thanks.
 

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That hose should be connected to the map sensor on the upper left side of the air box.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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