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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
okay, not the bike's first, just mine. picked up my '01 ST with 14,500 miles on it and picked up the mobil one, filter, and plugs yesterday with around 15,100 total miles on the bike. are there any tips out there for me? will i have to pull fairings? how long should i warm it up prior to draining? torque on the drainplug/filter/plugs? i inquired with the dealer about a maintenance manual but they seemed more inclined to help me if i had a suzuki since that seemed to be their bread and butter.

also, the dealer where i bought it can't tell me if the 12k service has been accomplished. i do think i can hear a fair amount of valve tapping/clicking between 2000 and 3000 rpm...but as this is my first triumph i'm not sure what i should or should not be hearing. any thoughts?

thanks everyone - this site and the search button has been a godsend thus far!
 

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Hi and welcome to the forum quadna71:)

I have moved this to the general Sprint forum where you are more likely to get an answer.

Don and I also ask all our noobs to please read our forum stickies:)

cheers,
DaveM
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks dave. i did check out the noob stickies when i joined last may, but i'll look at them again for anything more recent. anyone have pointers for oil change and general tuneups that can tide me over until i can come up with a manual?
thanks!
 

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I just change the oil yesterday on a 1050 but I don't think the configuration of the engine is much different.

First thing is go to your local Napa or any other auto parts store with your filter in hand and buy the right size filter wrench ( about $5)

Second warm the engine til the fan comes on shut off and let it sit for a few minutes. The oill will be warm enough to drain but won't burn you as you remove the drain plug.

Third remove filter with new wrench and let everything drip dry

4 lube filter o ring and install

5 install drain plug.

The Triump oil jug is 4 L My bike (1050) takes 3.5 L dry. I pour 500cc into a measuring cup and dump the rest into the engine thru a long neck funnel. Save the remaining oil as after your 7th change you have enough for 1 free change less filter.

As for torque specs for 1050

Filter 10nm 7.4 ft/lb
Drain plug 25 nm 18.4 ft/lb
Spark Plugs 18nm 13.3 ft/lb

Spark plugs

While at the auto parts store buy a 1 ft length of fuel line that fits snuggly over the end of the plug.

I suspect as on the 1050 you have to remove the tank, airbox etc. Just remember where all the little hoses and connectors go.

Remove plugs with tool box supplied wrench.
To install new plugs use the fuel line over the plug to get them started. This will virtually eliminate the chance of cross threading the plugs. If you do cross thread the plugs your F*cked.

Put everything back together and ride.

Remember these specs are for a 1050 but I would think the 995 would be the same.
 

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Get a factory service manual if you intend to do something with the valves. It has lots of good info. 955 engines generally do not require a lot of valve adjustment IME.

Before you install the new sparkies, check the gap and make sure it is set to spec. This can be accomplished with a 99 cent gap tool from any auto parts store. Be sure to use the right scale (metric, in mm) of course. Plugs can get dropped in transit and close the gap which will cause grief and poor running. Also look for other damage on the new plugs like cracked porcelain, which is rare but does happen once in a blue moon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks for all the advice - especially the torque values. i messed up my back yesterday playing around in the yard so the oil change will most likely be pushed off until saturday. i'll keep my eye open for a manual and in the meantime keep hitting the search button on here.
thanks again!
 

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quadna71,

I'm not a big fan of the 'run the engine until the fan comes on', because the temperatures under the fairing can get really hot unless you have a good amount of air flow.

So, either take it 'round the block and rev it once or twice to heat up and circulate the oil; or warm it up in the garage, but direct a good amount of air at the front of the bike with a decent fan or two so you don't cook or melt anything.

There is a crush washer on the oil drain plug. Check the pieces/parts 'sticky'. Murphy dictates that you won't need a new one, unless you do not have a new one. And, DO NOT overtorque the drain plug when you re-install it.

When you change the plugs (not that they need it at 14,500 miles), it is usually a good idea, after you pull the boots, to blow out any dirt/mung/small animals that have collected in the wells, so that when you pull the plugs, dirt doesn't fall in.

Lastly, (and this goes for any oil filter) make sure the old seal comes off with the old filter. And the new one will go on like most- seal contact, plus three quarters of a turn.
 

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Just to be a bit contrary.

I haven't used a torque wrench on any of those items in the last 20 years. Don't get all bent out of shape if you don't happen to have one.

Oil filter, spin on till gasket touches and then tighten a little more than 1/2 turn.

Spark plugs, spin plug in with fingers till you feel the gasket touch, turn with the wrench and feel the gasket crush. There will come a point where all of a sudden it will require a substantial increase in torque to turn the wrench even a little more. STOP, you are done.

Drain plug, with new crush washer is pretty much the same as a plug just gets to that max point a little quicker. With an old crush washer, and I reuse mine about 5x before getting a new one, just spin it in finger tight and then tighten one flat.

Yeah, I know, I know, but I do about 8 oil changes a year on my primary distance bike and a few more on others and I've been doing that for 50 years, never had anything fall off, strip or leak.

Given that you were asking for tips, ignore me and follow the advise above.
 

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Yup I'll back up shovelstroked on the no torque wrench for oil changes.

Filter by hand and just a 1/2" drive socket on the plug, finger tight first then a short nip.

I haven't been doing it for 50yrs but I have for 33 yrs and have never had a problem.

DaveM:cool:
 

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About running the engine till hot/fan comes on for draining oil:

As an extra precaution against burning yourself if you're unsure just wear a pair of rubber gloves when you remove the plug. Something like marigolds (like women use to wash dishes) are fine.
My T5 was proper hot when I did the oil last. I left it about 5 or 10 mins before removing the plug. No worries with the gloves on.
 

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I'm with you guys. I have never used a torque wrench to change oil or plugs in 40 yrs but the guy asked for specs and I had the book. It was a revelation to me, whud of thunk a spark plug wuz 13.3 ft/lbs. My wrench isn't even calibrated in .3s. I usually use grunt pounds and my arm has been finely calibrated over the years. I can tell between 1/4 grunt/lbs and 1 g/lb. I know the rear axel nut is 8 g/lbs. The only time i really use a torque wrench is for head gaskets and big end bearings. I grew up wrenching Brit bikes and no matter what you did they leaked. My Norton now leaks only when there is oil present.

I think we've sent quadna71 off in the right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
haha - yeah, definitely sent me in the right direction! just as a little background, i'm not new to the use of tools. i'm just hitting my 18 year mark as an active duty aircraft mechanic (hydraulics) for the air force and my main hobby over the past 7 years has been building my jeep (and wife's) for rock crawling. so i have an extensive collection of tools to include torque wrenches, filter wrenches, and the likes. that being said, my ST is only my second bike and is completely different from my first ('83 virago). i just wasn't too sure if triumph's were pickier about having things torqued. thanks again for all the input - i'll be taking it all in and i'm sure my first tune-up will come out alright.

here's a shot of my last ride and my current jeep.

 

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Triumph's can be picky about torque values, and resultant problems may surface many miles later. Most forum members know I am a stickler about using a calibrated torque wrench. But having said that, I have to agree with the previous posters that state they do not use one for the mentioned tasks.......with a caveat. They are experienced. You also are experienced, so you should have no problems.

As for others just now trying to do their own maintenance with no previous training, get a torque wrench, use it correctly (not for loosening fasteners), and take care of it. One exception, do not use the torque wrench for the drain plug. Just tighten until you start to crush the washer (they are cheap, use a new one). Start up and check for leaks. If you are a miser you can anneal the washers for reuse. :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
thanks for all the replies. i managed to get the oil changed out today. had to pick up the filter socket at local napa but other than that no issues. adjusted/lubed the chain and then washed and waxed it. now if only the rain would quit!
 
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