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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Everyone,

My 2009 EFI Bonneville is having a starting issue.

Turn the key - you can here the fuel pump run up

Clutch in, press button - Just a click from the starter solenoid and nothing from the starter motor

Things ive done / checked.


1. Battery removed and fully charged - getting 12.5 volts before starting and around 14v on idle

2. Put a screwdriver across the solenoid terminals and the bike fires up fine.

I'm guessing its the solenoid not switching the power to the starter motor - am I wrong in assuming this?

I've ordered a replacement starter solenoid but wanted to see if anyone knows of any other reason you would get a "click" at the solenoid without start of the bike.

Any advice would be great.

Wayne.
 

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Another victim of the 'low battery voltage' syndrome it seems..

The ECU has a low battery voltage threshold, when the battery voltage falls below this, the ECU disables the starter. The headlight cutout relay diverts power away from the headlamp to the starter solenoid when you press the start button, and the ECU provides the ground connection for the relay. If the ECU deems that the battery voltage is too low it will deny the ground to the relay.

The threshold is only a few tenths of a volt below full battery charge so it doesn't take much to drag the battery voltage down. The headlamp being on before the start button is pressed can do this.

There are a couple of fixes, one is to drill a hole in the relay and put in an 'emergency' button so that the relay contacts can be forced together manually.

The other is to disconnect the ground to the relay and replace it with a new wire connected to ground, but in doing that you would lose the clutch safety interlock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Ripper,

When I place a screw driver between the terminals of the Starter solenoid the bike starts fine.

Would my actions above over ride the ECU?

I thought that if the ECU deems the battery too low it wouldn't start the bike when I bypassed the solenoid or am I wrong in thinking this?
 

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When I place a screw driver between the terminals of the Starter solenoid the bike starts fine.

Would my actions above over ride the ECU?
Yes. The headlight cutout relay supplies power to activate the starter solenoid, and the ECU supplies the ground to activate the headlight cutout relay. You just cut out the middle man.

I thought that if the ECU deems the battery too low it wouldn't start the bike when I bypassed the solenoid or am I wrong in thinking this?
That particular function of the ECU doesn't act on the ignition system at all, it only diasbles the starter relay (headlight cutout relay) circuit, so that the starter solenoid gets no power to activate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Ripper.

I get a loud "click" when trying to start.

Is this coming from the solenoid??

If it is, would that suggest the solenoid is getting power?
 

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The click is usually coming from the starter relay. That does activate but only for a split second until the ECU takes away its ground. Which gives me another thought - I have heard that the ECU will also disable starting if the crank position cannot be determined. I don't know much about this but it is said that if you just hold the starter button in, the ECU will make another attempt within a few seconds.
 

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Inspect the wiring harness near the steering tube. The left fork is known to rub the harness and cause wear to the wire. This can cause an intermittent starting issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks Ripper,

I've tried holding the starter button in - no joy I'm afraid.

One thing i didn't mention:

Sometimes the bike will fire up fine when pressing the starter button. Id say 1 in 20 attempts.

So this is intermittent failure.
 

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Thanks Ripper,

I've tried holding the starter button in - no joy I'm afraid.

One thing i didn't mention:

Sometimes the bike will fire up fine when pressing the starter button. Id say 1 in 20 attempts.

So this is intermittent failure.
In that case, it could be corrosion in the starter button. Not unknown on here. The starter relay is also well known for going bad, usually from water ingress. If you have to replace the starter relay, any £2, 5 pin automotive relay (of the same size) will do the job. Solenoids have been known to go bad but that's a rarity in comparison.
 

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Ripper,

Will this be ok??

And are the connections the same (like for like)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LUCAS-SRB...502176?hash=item33af8bbaa0:g:ROoAAOSwZG9WjqcI
Yes thats fine, though £7 seems a bit high. You could try nipping into any car parts shop locally, you might get one for half that price. All automotive relays (according to their size - standard, mini, micro etc.) have a standard pin configuration so yes, if the relay fits the base the connections are the same. I think the starter relay is a standard sized one, like the one in your link. A 4 pin relay will also fit, its just that not all pins are used, so make sure you get a 5 pin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Update:

TRIED TO START - no joy

I then placed a paper clip between pins 86 & 87 on the starter relay so to by pass it and the bike fired up.

Removed the starter relay and checked the connection - all looked good.

Since putting the relay back the bike fires up every time.

We have had biblical amounts of rain here over the last few weeks so I'm guessing there is some water in the relay causing intermittent non starting.

New relay ordered so will change as a precaution.

Thanks for the help Ripper, very helpful.

WAYNE.
 

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I'm having a slightly different starting problem with my 2009 Triumph T100 Bonneville EFI

The bike turns over just fin but does not fire. It seems the bike isn’t getting fuel. I’ve checked the following items:

  • Check the fuses.
  • Spark plugs are firing.
  • Ignition ON
  • Neutral light is ON
  • Head and tail lights come ON
  • Fuel pump whirrs for 3-4 seconds just after you turn the key.
  • Clutch lever pulled and kickstand tested in both positions deployed and in the up position
  • Confirm kill switch is in the run position
  • Battery is fully charged
  • Measured voltage with and without the key on.
  • While cranking the started the voltage drops to ~12 is volts but returns to 13+ volts post cranking.
  • Clutch safety switch – Tested by depressing and releasing while trying to start. The starter shuts off when the clutch is released.
  • Side stand switch – There are 4 connections at the wire connector coming off the switch. I measured a change in voltage across two of the connectors from 12v to 0v when deploying the kickstand and storing the kickstand and the switch seems to be functioning properly.
  • Replaced the crank position sensor and set the proper gap.
What am I missing? It sure seems like the bike isn't getting fuel and before I open the tank to check the fuel pump and tip over switch I'd like to get some advice from the group...

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

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The cause could be the injectors themselves, there are Youtube videos showing how to clean them and check their operation. Also, between the throttle bodies is the fuel pipe with a T connection. The T connection contains a filter which could be blocked. Fuel pressure to the injectors should be 46psi. Can't see the cause being the tip over sensor, unless the bike has been on its side just before it stopped running. These things do stick though, so you could take it off and give it a shake. The fuel pump will also be fine if its priming when ignition is turned on, but if you are in there, check the main fuel filter.
 
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