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The bikes are dry sump.
Ie there is very little oil in the engine- about a cup full if everything is ok.

The first image shows the bottom of the oil tank. So long as you have a gasket set you can drop the tank bottom into a (white?) bowl and check for metal particles. There is a very crude wire "top hat" strainer in there. Don't undo anything on the engine. Clean the filter and refit

Check oil level before you drain, and once buttoned up, add roughly the same . You can always add more, if needed.
I would remove the rockers and use an oil can to oil the valve gear and allow the oil to drain down the push rod tubes.

If the rubber is split , you'll have issues.

You can buy IV type temp fuel bottles or make something using a plastic bottle. But test the bottle in case it melts with the fuel.

Kick starting is a knack but IMHO safer than the e start

A lot of owners would only use e start on a warm bike. You may be kicking a long time.

Car battery is fine, watch for polarity
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Wwll is been sitting for a long time and the dip stick on the oil cap shows nothing. In assuming it's all settled in the sump.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Ok so remove the sump strainer plug, drain oil and check for chunks, replace plug, replace drained oil with new (the amount the same), remove rockers, oil valves, replace rockers, flood the carbs, hook up battery (+ to +, - to -), turn key, coke open, Kickstart and pray?

Sound about right?
 

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It's hard to read your posting 100% accurately but yes.

My only proviso is that although I would normally advise leaving the engine drain alone, if there is a risk that the oil has drained into the engine, it may be wise as GPZ says to remove the plug and take a look.

You need to surgically clean everything before opening it up.

having too much oil in there is almost as bad as not enough . There should only be a cupful of oil inside the engine.
These engaines don't drain the tank like some other british bikes can, if left, although there are exceptions.

wear a pair of boots if kicking is new to you.
Don't be scared. Kicking through is the important part, you are not trying to bury the bike into the tarmac.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
It's hard to read your posting 100% accurately but yes.

My only proviso is that although I would normally advise leaving the engine drain alone, if there is a risk that the oil has drained into the engine, it may be wise as GPZ says to remove the plug and take a look.

You need to surgically clean everything before opening it up.

having too much oil in there is almost as bad as not enough . There should only be a cupful of oil inside the engine.
These engaines don't drain the tank like some other british bikes can, if left, although there are exceptions.

wear a pair of boots if kicking is new to you.
Don't be scared. Kicking through is the important part, you are not trying to bury the bike into the tarmac.
Sorry I sometimes post from my phone at work and it’s hard for me to proof read and fix an entire post.

I think I am going to try and get her running sometime tomorrow. I will try and record it but might not have an extra hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Well spent the day getting the bike ready to start removed the rocker boxes lubed everything up drained and replaced the oil (no metal pieces at all), and gave her new plugs,

I set up a surgical room with an IV fuel drip and a car battery defibrillator but after several attempts she is failing to produce a spark.

I am suspecting the leads and possibly the coils are no good. The leads don’t snap like they should and aren’t connected to the coils well either (however they are easy to test with a voltmeter). I am not sure how to test the coils so any suggestions would be great.

The bike with startup green light for neutral and red oil warning light both come on. I tried kicking it a few times and nothing, then I tried the electric start (which worked) but still no fire.

Pulled a plug tried the e-start and the plug had no spark.

FYI
Leave it to me to think Triumph was silly for putting slots for the push rods on the gaskets.

The old gaskets were really worse for wear so I snipped the part where the push rods go off the gasket was stuck to the top of the rocker box and I couldn’t get them off. I made several attempts at trying to get the push rods and rockers to attach while putting the rocker box back on. I was about to give up an just order new gaskets (because I now knew those slots were put there for a reason) when I realized I had a gasket kit and it likely had the right gaskets (which it did)

Having the gaskets made it a half hour job not a 3 hours long job.



[imf]http://i325.photobucket.com/albums/k381/loco_ojos/Triumph/20150917_184620.jpg[/img]
 

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I am not too familiar with the TSX but do't recognise that box in your last picture.

On my bike, that is the location of the Indicator flasher, the EI box is on the other side.

I assume that the box is the EI brain.

There should be an ignition testing section in the Workshop manual.
On a RITA switching the kill switch on/off makes a spark.

Hopefully you adjusted the valves having taken the rocker boxes off - I would have just used an oil can to lube the moving parts.
It doesn't matter.

Try removing the spark plug to see if the bare end will spark when offered an earth.
 

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Discussion Starter #30


I found this in the workshop not long after I made the post but before I went to bed so when I got home from work I went and did a few tests here are the results. (If I did them correctley)

• Battery Voltage: 12.15
o Battery is a car battery connected with jumpers
• Voltage at jumpers and Bike leads: 12.04
• Test A Voltage: 11.22
• Test B Voltage: 11.25
• Test C Voltage: 11.22
• Test D Voltage: 11.25
I am guessing the voltage loss is due to the distance to the battery (12’ jumpers)

I then checked the HT leads for continuity and after finagling them I am able to say yes they are good, however, the clamp on one lead to the ignition coil is broken and the clamps for the spark plugs seem loose.

I even checked the plugs for continuity even though they are new and of course they are good as well. I also verified the gap on the plugs

I also checked each lead with a plug attached and they both came out ok but it’s difficult because the plug clamps are so loose.

I am going to try and fix the leads a little tonight and test again tomorrow for spark.
 

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I wanted to thank Stuart for all the time he put into helping me.

For now the bike has spark and all electrical components seem to be working.

The carbs are pretty gunked up and ill be ordering a seal kit and cleaning the snot out of the carbs before to long and maybe then i can get the bike running.



Did any of you know that the Bing carbs still have Amal engraved on them?

 

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Discussion Starter #32
Haven't posted much in this thread since i mostly update via BritBike but figured i would post here as well and try to continue to update both threads.

Finally had a chance to work on the bike. Managed the check the valve clearance a week or so ago so today I pulled the bike out checked over everything and tried to get it to fire.

Gave it a good 20-30 kicks w/plugs removed, checked that oil was returning then gave the cylinders a spray with some starter fluid (yes I know terrible me).

Re-installed the plugs hooked up the battery and my soda bottle fuel tank, grabbed the handy fire extinguisher and give the bike a good kick.

After about two kicks the bike fired for about 5-10 seconds (thank you starter fluid).

I tried to get it running w/out starter fluid but no go. Gave it a few more squirts of fluid and get it to start and run a few more times before calling it quits. I managed to get it to run for about 15 seconds tops.

I think the carbs need to be torn back apart and looked at once again but I think its time to start tearing things down.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Now that the bike is almost completely torn down I am beginning to process the parts I have and entering them into an Excel document.

I figured I would share this doc so others can se what i am doing.

Parts Book

Parts that i don't have or that need replaced get flagged in red and i go back and search the many different suppliers to see what they have and how much they cost. Many suppliers are over seas and have different currencies so the document converts that into USD so i can search and find who offers the cheapest parts and i can create a order list from the different suppliers.

I am flagging almost all of the nuts, bolts, washers, and rubber parts due to the fact its going to be worth having extras while doing the rebuild (in my opinion). I know many of the fasteners can be found for cheaper but i haven't decided if i want to simply replace them by part number or if i want to replace them by searching for the proper size and thread. (i do have the BSA, Norton, Triumph thread chart saved as well).

As of right now I only have about 289 different part numbers entered out of 1013 parts and i only have 4 of the 8 different companies im searching entered and the total price for parts not including shipping is 1,737.03 USD.

I know the prices will change and this may all be for nothing later on but at least i have an idea of what all the parts are going to cost me.

Still debating if i go ahead and purchase all the parts before i start getting things re-painted and such. The engine parts are another story all together. I plan on rebuilding the engine and only replacing the consumables that should be replaced while the engine is torn apart but i haven't even looked into those yet.

If someone who has more knowledge than I on engines wants to take a peak and tell em what parts i should replace while the thing is torn apart i would be extremley thankful other wise ill look it all over at a later time.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
What's the latest on this one?
Well a lot of progress has been made but currently things are slowing down due to the fact we are expecting a little one in February.

As of right now the entire bike is torn down. I have built a crate for the engine and its currentley crated waiting its turn.

I sent a few parts off the powder coat (handle car controls, calipers, sprocket, rear master cylinder, shock absorber tubes, etc.)

I now have the handlebar controls at a friends and will have him paint the lettering back on since the powder coating was a little thick in some spots,

I have rebuilt the rear master cylinder with all new internals, reservoir, cap and bellows. (the rear master cylinder cost me about $400 because of its rarity and I’m still missing the pushrod lever)

The rear shock absorbers (rare Paioli) are rebuilt and all I need to do is compress the spring and get them back together.

I spent some time and separated items out and have them all in boxes.

On top of all of this I just interviewed for a job that would require us to move about 8 hours (closer to you Z) but it also comes with about double the income so the bike is at somewhat of a standstill for a little while longer.

I wish I had the time/money to work on it every day but I just don’t.

Next few steps for me is to save enough to get the wheels refinished (chrome/powder coat) because I already have the new bearings and other parts needed to put them back together without the tire.

I also would like to get working on the wire harness tearing all the old tape off and checking all the connections.

Ill attach some pictures so yall can see some of the progress made.
 

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Hi Chase,

wheels refinished (chrome/powder coat)
I suspect this'll be either impossible or more trouble than it's worth. The Co-op (or their supplier) simply painted the unpolished bits and polished the disc mounting, the edges of the spokes and the visible edges of the rims. You can't chrome just bits of a part, having both wheels polished for chroming will cost you a fortune, then you'd paint/powder-coat over most of it, then you'd muller the chrome on the rims every time you put on or took off tyres. :cry

I also would like to get working on the wire harness tearing all the old tape off and checking all the connections.
Risking stating the obvious, the tape keeps the wires together and in the connections in (roughly) the right orientation. Unless you're planning to rewire the bike one wire at a time from a tangled heap, only cut off small lengths of tape at a time, tying each short length of exposed wires together with one or more cable ties.

Hth; luck for February. :thumb

Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Thanks for the quick replies guys ill try to keep things updated.

Ill attach some images of the rims currently and while i went to get those ill attach a picture of the finished rear suspension i just need to put the spring back on as mentioned earlier.

I suspect this'll be either impossible or more trouble than it's worth. The Co-op (or their supplier) simply painted the unpolished bits and polished the disc mounting, the edges of the spokes and the visible edges of the rims. You can't chrome just bits of a part, having both wheels polished for chroming will cost you a fortune, then you'd paint/powder-coat over most of it, then you'd muller the chrome on the rims every time you put on or took off tyres. :cry
i am still not sure what i want to do. I do have a few parts that will likely need to be chromed like the fork cover that has the bracket for the front turn signals since its broken it need welded and preferably beefed up since they have a tendency to break.

I was orgignaly just going to have the powder coated do a two part coat on the rims. they can do a chrome powder coat but im still not sure yet. I could possibly also see if my powder coated will at the least let the rims soak in his chem bath and i can polish and paint the rims on my own time im just not sure yet.

Risking stating the obvious, the tape keeps the wires together and in the connections in (roughly) the right orientation. Unless you're planning to rewire the bike one wire at a time from a tangled heap, only cut off small lengths of tape at a time, tying each short length of exposed wires together with one or more cable ties.
I have been looking into different styles of approach and i understand where you are coming from.

I think what i might end up doing is getting a piece of plywood and laying the harness out on it. ill then trace out the harness and using nails ill pin the harness in place (a nail on either side of the wire so i can still slip the strands of wire out to work on them). i can then label all the connectors and begin working one end to another.

I do intend to work on a small section like you said but by doing this if i find a spot where i am having trouble or can no longer work on it i can tape the harness to the plywood and set it aside for the time being. Ill be posting more once i am ready for that considering i may/may not need to find some original connectors or ask more detailed questions about what should be done.

Being you seem to be the electrical guru on the forums ill be PMing you if your mailbox is empty when that time comes :grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)
The boy with the TSX is still alive and well.

Sorry not much in terms of updates since my last post just wanted to touch base and get the ball rolling again very soon.

In the stretch of time since my last post my wife and i have had a daughter,moved out of state, purchased out first "real adult house", and have changes work locations twice and getting ready for the next location in about a week or so. All while fixing the pld home for sale and now renovating the new home to fit our wants/needs.

I am finally to the point where i can make my new garage mine (no more working in the dungeon of a basement) and once i am to a point where i am happy i fully intend on starting work on the bike again.

Until then I will continue to order parts and do more researching. I just recently placed a large order for a good majority of what i am missing and still needed to buy but before i post much about that i will awaite for the shipments to arrive to my home.

I leave you with a photo of my garage in its current state. If any of you have suggestions or ideas as to what i might want to add to assist in the bike building process please feel free to make suggestions.

 
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