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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone tell me if the fiberglass used in muffler packing is special, or would ordinary home insulation (ie. the pink or yellow stuff) fiberglass work equally as well?

I receintly got Norman Hyde Togas and want to put the "mute" in the end of the pipe. It looks like adding a little fiberglass to the "mute" might make it a little quiter and help raise the back pressure a tad more. I just don't know if ordinary fiberglass will last or it some special type is used for mufflers.
 

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I've got some left over from repacking my Dunstalls, I'll put it in an envelope and mail it to you if you'll send me some Texas BBQ!
 

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I've used this stuff on my Emgo reverse cones.

http://parts.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/1/2475-fiberglass-muffler-packing-moose-racing.html

The Emgos came wrap very sparesly with something that looked like home insulation, so I figured I could use a spare sheet that I had laying around. It burned out in about 30 miles. I mean Burned Out! - nothing left but the wire.

Had the Moose stuff in there for over 4500 miles now, still there.

The pictures look different from the earlier posrt, but I bet it is pretty darn similar. I bought two packs and it was more than enough to wrap the Emgo's.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Flyingmerkal: That is a tempting offer. There is plenty of good BBQ around here. I don't know if I would want to eat any that has been through the mail though.

WyoBonnie: Thanks for the info. After seeing the price of the Dennis Kirk packing, I was very tempted to use some leftover home fiberglass I have. You saved me the trouble. The moose packing is resonably priced and like you said looks about the same. ISince it worked for you I am going to order some and use it. Thanks again.
 

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Flyingmerkal: That is a tempting offer. There is plenty of good BBQ around here. I don't know if I would want to eat any that has been through the mail though.

WyoBonnie: Thanks for the info. After seeing the price of the Dennis Kirk packing, I was very tempted to use some leftover home fiberglass I have. You saved me the trouble. The moose packing is resonably priced and like you said looks about the same. ISince it worked for you I am going to order some and use it. Thanks again.
I would be happy to send it anyway, there isn't enough left to repack another muffler, but plenty for what you want to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Flyingmerkel: Its Friday morning, I sent you a private e-mail several days ago about the packing material. I haven't heard back from you so I am assumming that you are not going to send me your left over packing. I will check back again tonight, but will order some online if I haven't heard from you by then.
 

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does this quiet the d&ds by a good deal?
I don't know about a "good deal" but it takes the edge off them. I was lucky enough to pick up a set of the forum for $125 so I figured I would give them a shot even though I don't care for super loud pipes. There is now about twice the packing as what the pipes came with stock.

They will set off car alarms, but a lot of the higher end raspyness that I hear from other pipes is gone. Good low end, friendly for the neighbors at low revs and makes a good deal of noise when you grab the throttle. I have asked several people who like and don't like loud pipes and all have given the thumbs up. My father in law even told me it sounds exactly like the Triumph he had in the 60s.

Put it this way. For $20 and an hours time you can find out if you like them or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
mutes packing

I want to thank the repliers espically flyingmerkel, he sent me his excess packing material free of charge. I used it to pack the mutes and put them in the mufflers. Here are a few pictures of the process. I can use the practice taking pictures, still need more as you will see.

The first is the packing material itself (from flyingmerkel, thanks again). It is very dense and does not "squish" too much. Since the mutes have only slightly smaller diameter than the pipes full thickness would not go it. I split one of the pieces down the middle with a sharp knife which turned out to be just the right thickness.



Here is one mute before wrapping one finished. I wrapped wire around the packing to hold it in place (mainly for installing, I don't think it can go anywhere once inside the muffler).



The mutes did not fit real tight inside of the muffler. I made inserts out of galvenized sheet metal (left over roof flashing scrap), drilled a hole to match the one in the muffler (to hold them in place also). They are tight enough that they stayed in place during the insertion of the mutes (I was happily suprised). They are the lighter color in this picture inside at the end of the pipe.



Here is the left side with the mute almost all the way in. Note the holes are aligned (would be very hard to turn when all the way in as it was pretty tight). I had to press all around the packing as I pushed it it to keep it from bunching up and sliding towards the back. Even doing so I had to partially pull it out, push the packing furhter towards the front, and press/push in again a few times to get it all in evenly.

 

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Discussion Starter #16
mutes packing

Here is the left side finished. The mutes came with a sheet metal screw to fix them in place. I did not want to trust that to hold them. I drilled out the mute holding hole to the same diameter as the hole in the muffler and used a small machine screw. I put on a nut and jam nut with lock washers inbetween all the parts. I know it's a little ugly, but I am more concerned with not losing the mutes, and don't look inside of the mufflers much anyway. With the sheet metal insert it fits tightly and I hope will force all the exhaust gases to compress and go out the main hole in the mutes and not through the perforated section. This should give me the little more back pressure that I seek.



I have not tried them out yet, still waiting on smaller main jets delivery.
 

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One thing i always have had good luck packing mufflers with is stainless steel wool. It wont rust, breakdown, or come flying out the end of the pipe like regular steel wool. You can get nice durable packing in there that doesnt blow out like the fiberglass stuff eventually will. I get it in a mat roll, its about 4" wide and 100' long. I still have half a roll here if anyone needs any.--

B
 

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Discussion Starter #18
BriGuy375: Stainless steel wool, didn't know it existed, sounds ideal for this application. If the fiberglass dosen't hold up I may take you up on your offer. Thanks for the info. Packing it once and forget about it would be great. I googled stainless steel wool and saw roles like you described. Did you get the fine, medium or course grade? What is the reasoning behind the grade you got?
 

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I went with stainless steel, i believe it was 316 stainless in a coarse grade. I wanted the material as beefy as possible to eliminate the chance of flaking out of the exhaust, burning, etc. Common stainless steel pot scrubbers would work too. Usually you can get a box of them pretty cheap.
 
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