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J

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This is what happens when you have a few to many drinks the night before.. come up with a really "good/bad" idea.. go to sleep.. wake up.. and still think its a good idea

Before



nothing too bad here... wrapped exhaust.. custom made muffler.. a few other things...

First mod - Airbox

I realized that the small tubes in the S4 intake were WAY to restrictive then they needed to be.. so i removed them leaving just the intake tubes.. from there I went to the hardware store and got some 3" to 2" rubber plumbing connectors and cut them WAY down to fit the rubber piece for the airbox and the nice fitting in the front portion of the frame.. this mod only took me about an hour to do.. and from what I have noticed.. a pretty signifigant change.. its running VERY lean.. - time to adjust the power commander!!!



Mod 2 = Napolean Mirrors

nothing too bad here..except for the fact that S4 bars dont have an opening to allow for the rubber pressure gromet to go into .. so another small mod.. had to mill down the metal piece to fit INSIDE the stainless steel handlebar ends.. run a screw through all of that.. and volia!



Mod 3 - Cafe Racer Bobbing - with a twist

I have always been in love with cafe racers.. i think its in my blood.. but. honestly.. why do I want to ride on 30 year old technology.. I grew up with sport bikes.. time to mod my triumph in the spirit of the cafe racers of old.

Step 1

I had to completly remove all of the back pieces and place all the little computer and electronic bits somewhere else.

Step 2

Sawzall - Ohh Noes!!!!



Step 3

Sawzall some more



Step 4

cut the seat to match



Step 5

put everything back together... tommarow.. and hope it works!

here is a teaser shot of everything.. well almost everything together



btw.. is this going to void my warranty??? :razz:
 

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Hey, a fellow Florida guy, wait...only...he's nuts :razz:
 

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The reciprocating saw (Sawzall®)is one of the top three Most Useful Tools Ever Invented (the other two being the Hammer and Duct Tape).

Can't wait to see how it turns out.
 
J

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heres a picture of the seat being finished.. that is a pocket with a clear vinyl covering the license plate.. dont look at the rear light..thats not where that is going..it was just there tied on with tie-straps so i can take a quick spin around the block.. still figuring out the rear section of the sub-frame.. should be done before the end of the week..



What I am looking to do is to box the frame off with more aluminum bar stock.. and cover it all with aluminum sheet.. any ideas as to rear lights? should I go LED's or something a bit more retro?

wow..thats a really bad picture.. ill post again in the morning when there is some actual light outside..



[ This message was edited by: Jasper_cs on 2006-12-14 18:53 ]
 

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I welded in some 1/2" pipe but I see yours is square tubing.How are your TIG skills? As for lights,I went simple.Kuryakyn large halogen Silver Bullets and the 4710 run/turn/brake controller. :-D
 

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First mod - Airbox

I realized that the small tubes in the S4 intake were WAY to restrictive then they needed to be.. so i removed them leaving just the intake tubes.. from there I went to the hardware store and got some 3" to 2" rubber plumbing connectors and cut them WAY down to fit the rubber piece for the airbox and the nice fitting in the front portion of the frame.. this mod only took me about an hour to do.. and from what I have noticed.. a pretty signifigant change.. its running VERY lean.. - time to adjust the power commander!!!
Congrats on the modifications; it's always good to see individual art in many aspects of life. I would like to comment on your air intake modification. It is a good idea in theory, but I think you might be stepping on your own toes when designing it the way you did. I'll try to explain myself. You did not enlarge the opening to the air box; rather, you enlarge the tube diameter of the inlet pipes. Now you are taking a larger mass of air and having to compress it into a smaller diameter hole at the air box. Physics proves that this is going to heat the compressed air. So you are fighting the problem of lack of air with the problem of heated air. Hotter air is less dense than cooler air, thus you night not even be seeing much of an increase in air mass. You might have heard of "Cool-Cans" in drag racing? They are containers that you run a coil of your fuel line through. When you get to the races you fill the container with dry ice. You super-cool the fuel before it inters the engine, thus making the full very dense compared to the fuel at average temp. It is the same concept with air. The cooler the air, the denser the air; thus, the greater air mass being injected. Cool-cans don't work well with fuel injection, however, as the process of compressing the fuel heats it up quit a bit. So, to end my rant, if you want to see significant change, enlarge the air box holes also to allow the air to flow straight in without having to compress it. Just my twenty cents... :)
 
J

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I understand the theory..but your talking about a miniscule difference in temps.. and were not talking about fuel or even .001ths of a second.. were just making the ram air a bit more efficent then how Triumph designed it..

Ok! Picture Time!!

I just finished up the rear end.. and was about to put the rear light on..when I found out that the rear light was DOA!! :mad:

Anyways.. here is a picture of what I have done as of today.. still alot of work to do.. but you can clearly see the frame as well as the new seat style.. and yes.. there is a license plate light on the light cluster I have bought... that just happen to shine up..

Enjoy

 

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On 2006-12-15 14:31, Jasper_cs wrote:
I understand the theory..but your talking about a miniscule difference in temps.. and were not talking about fuel or even .001ths of a second.. were just making the ram air a bit more efficent then how Triumph designed it..
Maybe I was a little unclear, but I was not suggesting that you are talking about fuel; I was simply using that as an example, as it is the same principle. I would argue that your setup is no more efficient than Triumph's, and it could in fact be less efficient. It is not a matter of how large the intake tube is (you could put a tube that is 2 feet wide on it), because the air has to go through the same smaller diameter hole in the air box, thus causing turbulence and friction that will slow the air down which defeats the purpose of the modification. I'm very aware that I am taking about a very small difference in air temp/mass and air speed velocity, but a very small different in very small quantities is a considerable difference. I'm in no way trying to argue--not implying that you are either--I'm simply making other readers aware of the physics before they go jumping on the band-wagon; as the modification looks bitching, but I'm just not convinced that it is a practical modification. I'd be interested to see some flow charts.
 
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ok.. i need a bit of help.. im having a problem with the lighting.. it seems that my brake light does not illuminate unless i hit the brakes.. needless to say this creates a problem at night.. everything works alright other then that..

I have also set the key to the park position..and the headlights come on..but the brake lights do not.. again..unless im hitting the brake..

any ideas?
 
K

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Discussion Starter #15
got a multimeter? hehe, trace the wires man... thats about all I can offer up.
 

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Just my meager contribution ($.02 or less). I think your air intakes will work OK. but, only if the system can supply enough fuel when it is remapped. You proved it flows more air by the mixture now running lean. When you go out of the norm with modifications, some will be critical. The heat of compression mentioned by someone will not been enough to notice. Follow through on the fine tuning and let us know how it comes out.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
ok..here are some pics of the mostly completed project..what do you think of the rear brake light?.. i dont think i like it..

BTW>. im going to be covering up the rear subframe so you shouldnt see any exposed wires..



 
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Discussion Starter #19
Did you.... move... the rear brake resivior.. to the... handlebar???

Keep the wrap (they make black wrap too) but shorten the can.
 
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actually as I was posting that I was thinking that I should shorten the pipe..which is EXACTLY what I will be doing.. once I get more gas for the welder... I think im going to shorten it to near the foot peg.. as for the rear brake ..its still back there.. the extra one in the front is a resivour for the coolant.. I know I am probably going to get some flame for that.. but.. so far I have yet to have a problem with it.. and I rode it really hard over the weekend.. and she stayed cool..
 
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