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I can't remember where I heard that that's NOT a good idea, but it SEEMS OK to me.

Certainly using the crank timing hole is not a good idea, as you'll get excessive oil output (although I would think that making a vertical exit would naturally force it to drain)
When I find the diagram for the breather set up, I'll send you what I have so you can see what I'm contemplating.
 

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When I find the diagram for the breather set up, I'll send you what I have so you can see what I'm contemplating.
I'm pretty sure I understand, as I said, I've seen it done. You have to create an opening between the crankcase and the dead space that forms the front engine mount "nose" of the cases, then thread in a brass barbed fitting on top, and run a hose out back.
 

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I brought one with the belt. so that's coin down the drain. I've heard that some blokes have
I can't remember where I heard that that's NOT a good idea, but it SEEMS OK to me.

Certainly using the crank timing hole is not a good idea, as you'll get excessive oil output (although I would think that making a vertical exit would naturally force it to drain)
How would you do that? rune the hose (which is thick) up between the barrels to the top of the frame? that would look bloody ugly.
I was riding from Springfield Mass to Framingham to the Burlington Mall.
On the Mass pike when all of a sudden I started hearing loud banging noises and actually felt the banging through the handlebars.
I didn't understand what was happening till I came to a stop at the mall ( on battery power ).
Had to go back with a u-haul pickup and trailer to get my bike home.
Yes, I'm running an MAP dry clutch belt drive, and the breather system absolutely and totally sucks.
Being that it comes out of the timing hole, the crank kicks all the oil straight to the breather hose, blows oil out the end at the rear wheel and coats the back end of the bike.
So this winter I'm going to bring the engine in to my apartment for a disassembly and try adding a new port for the breather which comes out of the engine case at the front mounting bolt.
I've seen some run breather lines out through the timing cover.
As for our age difference (SON ), I feel so old, a lot of the creaking and popping I hear on my bike - isn't coming from the bike.
LOL
I've heard that some blokes get around the problem by modified their rocker covers to include a breather, that's vents to atmosphere. Although not quite sure how the pressure would travel from the crankcase to the heads? I hear you about the creaking and popping, I can still get down on the garage floor alright but getting up is a bugger. What is a 'pike'?
 

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I brought one with the belt. so that's coin down the drain. I've heard that some blokes have

How would you do that? rune the hose (which is thick) up between the barrels to the top of the frame? that would look bloody ugly.

I've heard that some blokes get around the problem by modified their rocker covers to include a breather, that's vents to atmosphere. Although not quite sure how the pressure would travel from the crankcase to the heads? I hear you about the creaking and popping, I can still get down on the garage floor alright but getting up is a bugger. What is a 'pike'?
I think when you tap into the rockers, the engine will breath by way of the pushrod tubes, in which case I can see the pushrod tube o-rings and seals going away a lot quicker than normal.
I also think that's three only real downside, unless someone else pipes in with experience in the matter.
As for the pike, that would be the same as a super highway, or the M in England.
 

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I'm pretty sure I understand, as I said, I've seen it done. You have to create an opening between the crankcase and the dead space that forms the front engine mount "nose" of the cases, then thread in a brass barbed fitting on top, and run a hose out back.
Exactly, I'm going to give it a try this winter, anythings got to be better than what I have now.
 

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I think when you tap into the rockers, the engine will breathe by way of the pushrod tubes, in which case I can see the pushrod tube o-rings and seals going away a lot quicker than normal.
I also think that's three only real downsides, unless someone else pipes in with experience in the matter.
As for the pike, that would be the same as a super highway, or the M in England.
Not sure about the o- rings, if the pressure is being expelled from the crank via pushrods that should not put not much pressure on the seals? (in theory anyway) however, your method requires a full engine strip down might be worth investigation before doing that. Running the belt 'wet' seems the best option now - for me, but dry looks much cooler. Hope someone else who has done it will jump in and enlighten us.
Over here Pike = Motorway.
 

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Not sure about the o- rings, if the pressure is being expelled from the crank via pushrods that should not put not much pressure on the seals? (in theory anyway) however, your method requires a full engine strip down might be worth investigation before doing that. Running the belt 'wet' seems the best option now - for me, but dry looks much cooler. Hope someone else who has done it will jump in and enlighten us.
Over here Pike = Motorway.
I'd already planned on stripping the engine down as I want to do all new seals, o-rings, and gaskets, new piston rings, maybe a little less compression.
So while I'm at it, do a new port for a breather, if I find it's worse than the hose coming out of the timing hole, I can always plug it.
 

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No, just behind the frame front tube going up.

Anyone adding an aftermarket / field-fabricated breather isn't as concerned about how it looks.
Why not simply connect the crankcase breather to the existing tube that runs along the rear mudguard. I don't think you need the one-way valve (its purpose is to stop crap from being sucked into the crankcase ? ) and seeing that the exit point from the crankcase will be over 1 meter away, and going slighly uphill would mean that the oil will be sucked back into the crank before it can be pushed out the end. Any excess oil should drain back into the crank when the engine stops. Of course, one problem with my theory is that I don't know how much oil comes out of the crank, if a real lot then the oil may bank up? and create a blockage?
 

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Why not simply connect the crankcase breather to the existing tube that runs along the rear mudguard. I don't think you need the one-way valve (its purpose is to stop crap from being sucked into the crankcase ? ) and seeing that the exit point from the crankcase will be over 1 meter away, and going slighly uphill would mean that the oil will be sucked back into the crank before it can be pushed out the end. Any excess oil should drain back into the crank when the engine stops. Of course, one problem with my theory is that I don't know how much oil comes out of the crank, if a real lot then the oil may bank up? and create a blockage?
The big problem with my engine is it wet stumps, all the time, when I had the engine in my apartment ( always work on it inside ) and torn down I've checked and flushed all oil ports out, thinking it might even be the oil pump I got a new on, it made absolutely no difference.
So any oil that coats the crank gets thrown up to and out the breather line, which does go to the rear fender following the stock line.
That's wht I'm going with the thought about porting the breather out the front engine mount, I'm to fill the cavity with brass wool which is supposed to stop any oil from being thrown directly straight out, giving the oil a chance to drain back.
Also, being that it'll be on the front side of the engine it won't get as splashed as just behind the crank.
 

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Ok, makes sense. Mine did wet sump (it was slow and fixed up with a new oil pump) Trouble with OIL frames hard to fit a tap in the oil line. Is the amount of oil coming out of the tube (from the crankcase) unique to your bike compared to others - if you have come across others running dry system?
Cheers,
Paul.
738610
 
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