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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I have been fighting oil leaks ever since I bought this bike, (bought used!). Recently I decided to bite the bullet and replace the oil pan gasket. I removed the exhaust, drained the oil and removed ALL of the oil pan bolts. However I could NOT get it off. And yes I removed the filter. I pryed on it, yuck ... hit it will a mallet, yuck and worked and worked. Then I dropped back and gave up. I reassembled it all and as suspected it now really LEAKS! Any advice?

Is there something I missed? Has anyone done this? OR had massive leaks?

I am nearly ready to give up and junk the bike, ... or sell mega cheap as its pissing me off. The thing is that I have spent alot of time and $$$ on it.

carbster

BTW if someone wants it cheap the bike is in Houston!!
 

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Not good to hear.

Without knowing more or looking inside the sump with a borescope, my bet is that a previous owner or service tech may have glued it in place with gasket sealant to stop a prior leak.
 

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On 2007-01-23 08:45, carbster09 wrote:
I removed the exhaust, drained the oil and removed ALL of the oil pan bolts. However I could NOT get it off. And yes I removed the filter. I pryed on it, yuck
Prying, as you already know, is a no-no as you will damage the gasket surfaces. If you managed to get a tool between the sump and the engine, how did you seal this hole on reassembly?


... hit it will a mallet, yuck and worked and worked. Then I dropped back and gave up. I reassembled it all and as suspected it now really LEAKS! Any advice?
Try and cut all accessible parts of the glued gasket with a razor or some very thin bladed boxcutter type knife and have a new go with the rubber mallet?

Sawing with dental floss works on stubborn glued on emblems on cars. Maybe it would work here too, if the gasket material used is soft enough? At least this would be a bit kinder to the gasket surfaces than a knife/razor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
excellent idea on the dental floss! I was pretty careful, but obviously not enough. I reckon some mage sealant was used by the prior owner.

I was just thinking, that I missed something. Maybe a bolt or something up in the oil filter housing? But I don't see anything in the manual.

carbster
 

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On 2007-01-23 08:45, carbster09 wrote:
BTW if someone wants it cheap the bike is in Houston!!
How cheap? I've gone to Houston for a bike before, and I can do it again.
 

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I'm the new owner of this bike...

I bought this from my brother "carbster09" before we moved him out of Houston. I did get the oil pan off, he missed three bolts up in the oil filter sump. I put on another gasket, leaked like a mother****er while riding it in the Catoctin Mts. up here in MD.

This pos was bought from someone in Dallas who sold it on fleabay to my brother. The lower case was tig welded back together around the kickstand mount and towards the front beneath the waterpump. Epoxy was spread over the repair area to reduce the seepage from the weld.

I'd love to kick to f*&k out of the a$$hole who sold him this bike as I'm the one stuck with fixing it now. BTW this a 2001 Speed Trip.

after a further teardown and analysis on the area with sandblasting and diegrinding I believe the oild to be leaking primarily from the Waterpump O ring I hope I'm not wrong on this as Ive read that the rear output seal at the sprocket can foul causing leaks as well. The kick stand and oils pan seem to have been the areas showing the majority of oil leaks. Also I have found another problem in that the kickstand threading is ****ed. Rosets will have to be installed inorder to fix that problem.

My dealer has had problems getting parts for this bike as apparently a change over occured in 2001 with three different parts available for the same year bike dependant upon the serial number, of course even with the right number, we get the wrong parts. Frustrating as hell. I have another triumph a TBS 03', i love it to death but I'm afraid I'm done with Triumph after reading about their set up in Thailand.
 

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Update on the leaks

looks as though it has been leaking quite profusely around the water pump seal and the pan gasket. new seals are in the shop and ready for some warm weather install. I'm going to spread some marine epoxy over the areas that have been welded in order to prevent any seepage from metal porosity.

I think the pan sealing surface my have been screwed up from the repair thus may need to be squared up a bit with a file or something. The hard part is working on this area under the bike with no lift, I think I'm going to just lay it down on the side completely and work on my belly.

I would love to fix this problem by installing a daytona engine! I've been looking for one for over a year now with little to no success. Any ideas?
 

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There are several leak points on the left side of the motor - 1 is through the bolt mounting holes in the case for the sidestand - yes, really!
On my later model Daytona motor I also found a leak through one of the sprocket cover mounting holes.
Seems like the casings are really thin around this area & doesn't take much for them to be porous where the threads are. Use sealant on all those bolts & see if it makes a difference.
I had initially changed the main output shaft seal thinking tha twas the source of my leak, but turned out to be that bolt-hole on the sprocket cover. That's not to say that the main output shaft seal shouldn't be considered.
 

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Yes, I'm aware of the kick stand bolt issues. Unfortunitly two of the three are stripped from a PO overtightening them, most likely to curb and oil leak or perceived leak. I'll have to use some rosets to repair the threads and will most definitely use sealant on the bolts.
 

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I'll have to use some rosets to repair the threads and will most definitely use sealant on the bolts.
Whats a roset?

I usually use helicoils for repairing threads,
be careful lubing/using sealant on threads as this can lead to overtightening.

I'd be very surprised if the casting is porous,
it would be more likely some numbnut would put a too long screw in the hole and crack the casting
 

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I'm going to spread some marine epoxy over the areas that have been welded in order to prevent any seepage from metal porosity.
If it comes to this (and I hope it doesn't), this is a far better product than marine epoxy. I used it on a Benelli with a porous case and it held fine for years. Amazing stuff.
 

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If you don't have a lift, wouldn't it be easier to spend the $200 on a lift from Harbor Freight? I'm in DC, and have a frame lift, but that might not work very well for the motor work.
 

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Sorry to hear yer Spittin' Oil, but I've been chcking this thred for a few days and was wondering if you had considered the obvious...

Replace the pan and bolts. (Hellicoil/rosset those threads where needed).

Between the previous owner's molesting the bike, and your hitting it with a hammer, I can't imagine how you will ever have a proper seal against leaks.

Dealt with this issue before on cars and once you have a screwed up pan (and/or screwed up filter thread) - nothing's ever gonna make it right except replacing it.... marine epoxy,new gaskets or bubble gum not withstanding.

Best of luck.
 

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latest on the bubbler

Well. new pan gasket, pan resurfaced at machine shop, old expoxy reamed and ground out via dremel, new shifter seal, all surfaces cleaned and checked for square. sprocket seal checked- no leaks found. Reassembled the bike left it sit for a few days to allow gaskets and sealants for harden.

Test Drive, Wow what a ride, I parked it and it started leaking again. Huh... I almost added a few .45 vents to it, seriously if I wasn't in the city limits I would have shot the F*%er and roasted marshmellows on the shell!

Such as shame a really neat bike with a whole-lotta potential. It's going to sit for a little while while I shop around for another S3 engine or a suitable transplant. I do have knowledge of a 1050 tiger that has been totaled and has a good running powerplant and front end. Maybe a possibility. The wiring and airbox would be the major issue. Bolt up is the same... Humm...
 

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First off, really sorry to read about this... SUX man!
Hey, I hope this isn't too dumb a question....;) but what weight "engine oil" are you using? IF you are messing with 5W anything, this IS most likely a big part of the problem as well..
 
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