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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am in the pre-planning stages of a trip from Matagami to Radisson QC.

The fact that this is the second longest non-serviced (381km's to the first and only fuel station enroute), highway on this planet, is not the primary reason. Being the furthest North you can go in Eastern Canada, Eastern North America by road makes it intriguing.

So, I know with my 1050 unladen, with just me on it, I can get 340km's before the fuel light comes on. That is not going to do. Carrying extra fuel is going to be a must.
But to figure out how much fuel, since space will be limited with tent, food, and whatnots needed to eat.

So, I ask: How far have you gone on your 1050 on a single tank of fuel, loaded up with gear?
I realize everyone is different, but I at least need a jumping off point.

As I get further along and start acquiring panniers I'll be able to do some trial runs. Until then...
 

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Last trip I took on my G2 955, I got a pretty consistent 45 MPG with three full 46 liter Givi bags and a passenger. That's roughly 231.5 miles with my 5.15 gallon tank or 234 with your 5.2. 381 km = 237 miles...

Your mileage will vary for your motor, altitude, and various other variables, but it's likely to be in the same ballpark. I would want two gallons with me on a road like that, just in case, but one should be enough.

Cheers,
-Kit
 
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Carrying enough gear for a 2 week road trip - full panniers, tank bag and extra bag on rear rack. 268 miles = 428 km.

Be aware that the steel tank on a later 1050 ST will hold slightly more fuel than my '06.

The last 30 miles trying to find a gas station were not fun!

 
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Fully laden I'll have the fuel light come on around 140-160 miles, if I get to 180 miles without fuelling I can expect to start pushing. Usually I'll get to 120 miles then start looking for fuel, & when I say laden I mean
 

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tangent but if you're going that long between civilization be sure to pack a couple tire plugs and a bicycle pump. I was lucky last time and only had to push the bike 3-4 miles (with a friend) but man, that was a LONG and HARD push. I think it also destroyed an otherwise perfectly good tire.
 

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tangent but if you're going that long between civilization be sure to pack a couple tire plugs and a bicycle pump. I was lucky last time and only had to push the bike 3-4 miles (with a friend) but man, that was a LONG and HARD push. I think it also destroyed an otherwise perfectly good tire.
If it was me I'd have to pack a sandwich ços my fuel would be low as well!:grin2:

cheers
DaveM
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
As I am dealing with getting a rectifier problem solved, I do not believe this Sprint, being twelve years old, is going to be the logical choice for such a trip. Unless I can get my head on making emergency road side repairs that involve the charging system, or at least some kind of monitor I can put on the dash to warn me of impeding charging issues. That would be helpful. Does anyone know of such a device that can be fitted to the Sprint dash that would serve as an "idiot" light of possible voltage issues? I know a volt meter is the obvious answer, but what ones are made for this application on a motorcycle? I will start searching online, but not sure exactly what is out there.

UPDATE:

Found this:
https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Charger-Voltmeter-Switch-JARDLI/dp/B01K9JI1CK/ref=sr_1_4/131-3132502-6717628?ie=UTF8&qid=1506304935&sr=8-4&keywords=motorcycle+voltmeter#Ask
 

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I don't know about that particular one, but I have a voltmeter without the USB port on mine. That looks like a pretty good solution. I really like my Fuzeblocks FZ-1 power breakout box for farkles and run my voltmeter from that, but there are other solutions as well I'm sure.

Once you've properly replaced the R/R with a Shindengen MOSFET unit your electrical problems are probably gone unless your stator has been damaged by the OEM part. Rick's makes a good replacement for the 955s at a fraction of the cost of OEM if you do need a new stator, but IIRC there's something a little wonky about the 1050s. Probably best to never touch anything made by Electrex.

I've been to both oceans in North America on my '04s and there's nothing wrong with them that won't also go wrong with Japanese bikes. A couple of upgrades and proper maintenance will give you a reliable machine. (And the upgrades apply to everything with early 2000s or earlier R/Rs; it's all the same couple of Shindengen parts no matter the logo on the tank.)

Cheers,
-Kit
 

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Got one of those sparkbright led just never installed it. It's on The to do list.
For a simple good,bad or very bad indicator it would be quite useful when on the go
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I don't know about that particular one, but I have a voltmeter without the USB port on mine. That looks like a pretty good solution. I really like my Fuzeblocks FZ-1 power breakout box for farkles and run my voltmeter from that, but there are other solutions as ...

Cheers,
-Kit
I really like that setup. What wire did you splice into for switched power? I was thinking if I did this, would be to tap the running light circuit since it?s also very close by under the seat. I just do not know if it?s a good idea to run accessories off of that circuit.
 

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If you don't want to run directly to the battery using a mini relay, then meter the voltage for the wire you intend to use to see what the voltage drop is vs battery voltage for a reference. Voltage meters don't use much power to operate.
 

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I work on average of 10miles per Litre of fuel. Bit more or less dependent on; conditions, traffic & speed. Two hundred tops.
 

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With my bike loaded ( I'm about 200 lb nkd) with just me and panniers for a 2 week trip I base mileage on 40 km per bar at spirited highway speed. Light comes on at 2 bars indicating anywhere from 60 to 85 km remaining and is fairly accurate though I will fill up at around 350 km if possible. Agree with others to carry at least a spare gallon. Also remember that gas stations in more remote locals are sometimes dry while awaiting a delivery!

As for voltage monitoring, I would not rely on the led type red, amber, green light. I initially installed this type and while it will let you know you have a problem, it is often too late to react whereas a small digital VM will let you know immediately if your charging system is failing. I once rode almost 1000 km at just over 12 volts when my stator was on its way out. I watched the voltage steadily dropping and when it fell to low 13's I stopped and unplugged the headlights. Was sufficient to see me home with 2 stops for gas and a ferry stop/start.
I installed a red readout because I read somewhere that a blue readout can be bothersome at night, don't remember why. Also, because the RR will hunt a bit, I recommend only going for a one decimal place model.
 

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@DwayneH, I did tap into the running light circuit to power the relay using a Posi-Tap connector and enough dielectric grease to ensure that corrosion should never be a problem. It's a three wire setup; the actual juice to run accessories comes straight from the battery and the running light connection just senses whether the key is on.

I have to agree with UlsterSpud about the SparkBright. I really like it in theory, but in practice I want to see tenths of a volt. Tonight's a perfect example; I'm nearly half a volt down from where I should be with lights on and motor off, but within a tenth or so of what I'm used to while running. No idea why, but I'm going to investigate after I post this and hopefully fix it proactively in my garage instead of reactively by the side of the road.

Cheers,
-Kit
 

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Ulsterspud, am I reading your ODO correctly, does it say 295000km?

If so, then mine is still "young" at 52000. :)

Great ridsing!
 
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