lowering the Sprint Question

4337 Views 31 Replies 20 Participants Last post by ST Rider, Oct 29, 2007

G

Discussion Starter · Jan 15, 2007

Anyone know if lowering the Sprint is possible? I'm 5'5" with short legs.

I just need about an inch and a half or better to feel safe at a stop. Although I've had tall standard/sport bikes in the past (80's) it's a little harder for this older body to throw a leg over. Really interested in doing some inter-state touring soon....

thanks

rudy

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

Thefallenone

· #2 · Jan 15, 2007

You need to get somebody to manufacture some longer dog-bones to connect the rear shock. Not as easy as I first though. The ones on the Suzuki's I have made taller had flat link bars.

Kev

REGULATOR

· #3 · Jan 15, 2007

so would it be enough to take your seat and shave some material out of the foam? maybe a thinner layer of denser high quality foam vs the stock height?

KevinH

· #4 · Jan 15, 2007

I have a 2000 sprint St. If you rotate the chain adjuster (single sided swing arm has an eccentric adjuster) around it will lower the bike. I put a tire hugger on it when I first got it in 2000. At some point I rotated the adjuster and the tire got up to the hugger just barely touching it. Last year I got a new chain and the tech asked me If I wanted to keep it that way . The bike may have turned in slower when the back was lowered but I never pushed it hard into corners.
I just looked and its about 1 1/2 inches. Now I remember !!!! In 2001 I went two teeth up on the rear sprocket. thats why the chain wasn't too loose. So you'll need a 2 up sprocket for about $85.

jeffster

· #5 · Jan 16, 2007

Lowering the bike will preserve the seat to peg distance, but you may start grinding hard parts sooner during cornering. Carving out some of the foam in the seat will lessen the seat to peg distance, but preserve your ground and cornering clearance. As always, these issues result in compromises of some sort.
jeff

"Yes, officer, actually it is my own personal racetrack. I'm surprised you didn't know that !"

" Do you know how fast you were going ? No, but I'm sure you're going to tell me. "

G

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jan 16, 2007

Thanks for the tips guys !!!

Really would prefer to keep all the padding in the seat, so maybe the sprocket/eccentric adj combo may most cost effect and get the gearing taller at the same time....

hmmm

Haddi-Man

· #7 · Jan 16, 2007

On 2007-01-15 21:02, rximenez wrote:
Thanks for the tips guys !!!

Really would prefer to keep all the padding in the seat, so maybe the sprocket/eccentric adj combo may most cost effect and get the gearing taller at the same time....

hmmm

Actually, it would get shorter, by a fairly significant amount. If you go from 43 (stock) to 45 in the back, you should get more pep out of the thing in exchange for top end. Not necessarily a bad thing, but if you're planning on doing quite a bit of long distance touring, you might not like that the bike is revving higher for the same speed. Again, compromises...

ruscook

· #8 · Jan 16, 2007

On 2007-01-16 00:23, Haddi-Man wrote:

On 2007-01-15 21:02, rximenez wrote:
Thanks for the tips guys !!!

Really would prefer to keep all the padding in the seat, so maybe the sprocket/eccentric adj combo may most cost effect and get the gearing taller at the same time....

hmmm

Click to expand...

Actually, it would get shorter, by a fairly significant amount. If you go from 43 (stock) to 45 in the back, you should get more pep out of the thing in exchange for top end. Not necessarily a bad thing, but if you're planning on doing quite a bit of long distance touring, you might not like that the bike is revving higher for the same speed. Again, compromises...

A change of 2/43, is only 4.6%. The Speed Triple is an 18/42 front/rear ratio which is 5.5%. After owning the triple for 5 days ( ;-) ) I love the gearing for acceleration and agree with others it doesn't seem to affect economy so going for a 4.6% gearing reduction would be a very minimal change from an economy perspective but still increase acceleration a noticable amount..

Sorry the above doesn't read well. In short, it's a minor change with very little/if at all noticeable downside for improved acceleration and whether a 955 or 1050 motor would say do it!

Russ

Haddi-Man

· #9 · Jan 16, 2007

On 2007-01-16 02:08, ruscook wrote:
Sorry the above doesn't read well. In short, it's a minor change with very little/if at all noticeable downside for improved acceleration and whether a 955 or 1050 motor would say do it!

Russ

I haven't done the mod yet (24k service coming up soon, plan to change to 18/45 then) so I don't know firsthand, but I'm just repeating what I've heard on the board. Namely, if you go to 18 in the front, it affects your RPM to the point where you might not want to do it for long distance touring. 19/45 is almost as significant a change as 18/43, hence the warning.

Me, I wouldn't worry about it either, but if you're looking for a full on laid back tourer... well, maybe the Sprint isn't your bike in the first place! :-D

gavinb

· #10 · Jan 16, 2007

Hi,
THere is a question and answer re lowering the sprint on the following site.
www.promecha.com.au

upnet

· #11 · Jan 16, 2007

I'm 5'4" with short legs. I softened up both front and rear suspension settings. At Stop signs and traffic lights, I have to throw the left butt cheek over the side to flat foot. Don't know how many miles you have on your bike, but the suspension does sag with mileage. Also you can put the bike on the sidestand and step on the left peg then swing the leg up and over the low part of the seat. I have to do this when I have my tailbag attached.

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G

Discussion Starter · #12 · Jan 19, 2007

I remember doing that on my '83 Honda 1100F. !

LDnTexas

· #13 · Aug 3, 2007

This issue of lowering the bike has been discussed here at home as many of us have lowered our sport bikes and the only negative impact was higher instance of bottoming out however, it occurs infrequently. The handling has a better feel when turnning in and the drive on the exit of the turn has increased. In the case of the Sprint St when you rotate the chain adjuster could you not just remove 1 or 2 links from the chain and maintain the same sprockets and ration?

denman13

· #14 · Aug 3, 2007

What about a different seat?

rximenez, I didn't see anywhere what year Sprint you have. If you have an 04 or earlier perhaps look into a Sargent seat. They sit lower and broader and are supposedly extremely comfortable. You won't get 1.5 inches out of the deal but you may get half of that. Unless you already have one, it's worth a look-see. If you have the 05+, you could try Corbin which I hear from others are great seats but customer support leaves much to be desired.

ooobaby

· #15 · Aug 3, 2007

I haven't tried it, but I've been told you can lower the front by sliding the fork tubes up through the triple trees a little. Bound to effect handling. Everythings always a trade. Personally, I think a person should buy a bike that fits them due to safety/balance issues. If you're going to be touring you're going to be carrying stuff on your bike and no matter how you do it it's going to make the bike more top heavy than when it's empty. 450 to over 500 pounds is a lot of weight and that's not including a pillion. I've seen too many people with short inseams drop their bikes due to gravel/wet or oily pavement/wet grass/etc. because they couldn't plant their feet solidly enough to prevent the bike from going over. It can happen to any of us no matter our height. Why gamble with your health and/or your bike? In my case I wouldn't mind having a Tiger, but they're just a little too tall for my comfort level when I'm on my tippy toes. The new Tiger is a little better height wise, but not enough for me.

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oldndumb

· #16 · Aug 4, 2007

I lowered mine by rotating the chain adjustment eccentric, and tried to drop the front by the same amount. I also had the seat shaved and narrowed. Rides good, handles good. A better rider than me would run out of groud clearance.
I have not experienced the chain noise that some have when they accidentaly rotate their eccentric.
I have not had any discomfort from the seat, and I was in the saddle for 18 hours on one trip.
I did not have to change my sprocket due to the lowering. I did change the front later, to improve acceleration and parking lot driving.
I did have to shorten the side stand and centerstand.

monkinwitz

· #17 · Aug 4, 2007

boots

Sorry if this seems ridiculous but how about getting a 1'' put on the bottom of your boots i guess that would let you touch down when stopped, The other thing is a rack in the garage???????

CASPRINTST

· #18 · Aug 4, 2007

I think i read that the Corbin seat will give you about an inch.

Good Luck

DaveM

· #19 · Aug 4, 2007

Kev your back

Thefallenone said:
You need to get somebody to manufacture some longer dog-bones to connect the rear shock. Not as easy as I first though. The ones on the Suzuki's I have made taller had flat link bars.

Kev

Hi Kev,
good to see you are back, what are you riding now?

DaveM

omaz

· #20 · Aug 4, 2007

"Hi Kev,
good to see you are back, what are you riding now?

DaveM

"

Dave , check the dates on this thread. Kevin replied to it 8 months ago

He's probably still riding that Nipponese thing that he traded the Triumph for.

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

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