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Discussion Starter #1
gday im a first timer was really stoked to find this site ,i have a 2007 bonnieville t100 now with 23000km on clock ,a, k and n airfilter and bigger jets fitted by dealer and thunderbike pipes,lately when i ride bike she tends to stop eratically when sitting at lights or stops hot or cold,and when i take off with same amount of throttle as usual she will sometimes stall ,i took carbs off to check and clean looked pretty good but gave everything a good blow out any way didnt touch air mixture screwss,put back together fired her up all good running smoothly revs great took her for a ride as soon as i crank on the power engine misses around 3/4000 rpm had my bro inlaw a car mechanic check it for me we couldnt find anything wrong carburation wise he thought maybe electrical we did find a black plastic thing i think mite be carb heater thermostat under fuse box with a hole burnt through it ,have booked bike into local dealer here tomoro ,hopefully they will be able to sort .any ideas or similar experiences from others.brentm
 

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Yep, it's the carb heater......

The little gizmo you described is the carb heater. If it has a hole(?!) burned through it, presume it aint workin. That should be the source of your troubles and hopefully the dealer can figure out how the hole got there. If, for whatever reason that turns out to not be the problem, it could be the coil. Stock coils on these bikes are "issue-prone." Look to the Nology unit # 152-001-070T for your replacement. Cheaper and much better than stock, a no-modification swap as well.
Best of luck and please let us know how the hole(?!) in your carb heater thermostat got there.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
fixed

got bike back from dealer today goin good now,(should be after what they charged me to) I spoke to mechanic who reckoned problem was crap in one carb and water in petrol nothing electrical wrong,I guess I could be wrong but both carbs were spotless when I put them back on bike and when I tipped petrol out of carbs to clean I didnt see any little blobs of water in it.showed him burnt out heater tstat he thought it was an exhaust sensor and told me bike didnt need it ,he had no idea what caused it to burn out,I told him I wanted it replaced and under waranty which dealer agreed to so hes ordered a new one.heading off to west coast on sunday for a few days hol and a great ride hopefully gonna do haast ,wanaka ,queenstown then bac to CHCH.brent
 

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Discussion Starter #7
sorted hopefully

headed off to the coast bike was great for 100kms or so then started playing up again seemed to be running vey hot ,very hard to start when hot and erratic engine cutout when idling especially when wife hops on text a freind who suggested noel at High country bikes in Fairly so rung him and popped in to see him on way home hes an awsome dude very knowledgeable and freindly he reckoned bike definitely needs carb heater and thinks it works in with the other sensors also suggested i only use 91 octane petrol which i did for first 18000 km no probs then changed to 95 as per manual which is when i first started noticing probs with bike.got home picked up replacement heater part fitted it and engine revs dropped strate away noel suggested going over wiring under seat as probably a tite connection ,which i did couldnt find anything wrong but disconnected everything and made sure everything fitting good ,filled bike with 91 yesterday and went to kaikoura bike ran well restarts perfectly everytime never died once and it was a very hot day to boot in north canterbury,afraid i have lost any confidence i mite have had in bike dealers but there some great mechanics out there.another good thing ive found is allied petroleum will sell to public the mobil 4t racing oil in 4 lts for under $60 usually $90/100 in bike shops boy dont the like screwing us just cause we love bikes,hope thats helpful .Brent
 

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Discussion Starter #9
no have filled up with 95 all over sth island for approx 4000kms i dont think thats the prob the fact remains bike runs better and more reliably on 91 so im sticking with it.in the manual it says for european models use minimum 95 petrol ,US and canadian models use minimum 89 petrol how do you tell which model we have here from new.brent
 

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no have filled up with 95 all over sth island for approx 4000kms i dont think thats the prob the fact remains bike runs better and more reliably on 91 so im sticking with it.in the manual it says for european models use minimum 95 petrol ,US and canadian models use minimum 89 petrol how do you tell which model we have here from new.brent
The difference is in the method used to measure the octane rating of the petrol, not the grade of petrol needed for the bikes to run correctly. In Europe we use the RON method and in North America they use a measurement called AKI that is the average of RON and MON which gives values typically 4 to 5 points lower than RON for the same fuel. I.e. the "different" fuels quoted in the manual for Europe and US are effectively the same. I believe you use RON in NZ so you should be using 95 (RON) fuel in your bike.

I've been a bit bemused by some of the answers you've had so far. Is the black plastic bit with the hole burnt in it a flat piece of black plastic about 3cm long with 4 wires coming out of it that are about 3cm long (with a connector) and clipped to the side of the air-box underneath the fuse box? This IS the carb heater thermo-switch as you thought. If you get a Haynes manual they have a picture of it. If it was a Triumph dealer mechanic who told you it was an exhaust sensor then he needs to go on a re-training course. There are no exhaust sensors on Bonnies with carbs! Is the bike working correctly now you've replaced the thermo-switch? If so, ignore the rest of this, but you might find it useful.

As to whether you NEED the carb heaters, that's another issue. They are intended to only operate below 10 degrees C (hence the thermo-switch) to reduce the effects of carb icing that can occur at low temperatures in humid conditions. As it's summer where you are I doubt if that applies at the moment so the heaters shouldn't be operating any way. I doubt if the carb heaters are the source of your problems, but to get them out of the picture disconnect the two wires plugged in to the bottom of each carb by the float bowl. Now ride the bike and see if you've still got the problems. You won't do any harm by not using the heaters and they are not needed unless the weather conditions are such that carb icing might occur.

The only strange thing I can find relating to the thermo-switch is that the circuit diagram in Triumph's workshop manual also shows it being connected to a "carburettor vent valve". I have no idea what this is, have never seen it on my bike and can't find it mentioned in either the Triumph manual or the Haynes, other than in the circuit diagram. There is a mechanical valve in the vent line from the petrol tank, but it has no wires connected to it and is a simple gravity controlled valve to prevent fuel spillage in the event that the bike is laying on its side. You could also disconnect the thermo-switch and see if that makes a difference.

Hopefully your problem has gone away, but if not I would look at the plugs, coil, HT leads and pick-up sensor as well as the carbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanx paul yes bike seems to be running really sweet now i picked up a manual for myself and yes it was the carb heater tstat with a hole in it, i no it doesnt make sense about 91 working better but it does so there you are bike was great for 18000km ,ive heard numerous stories about dealer mechanics and not just triumphs who dont no what theyre talking about, they love selling new bikes but back up service is absolute crap and very expensive i wont be going back to our local dealer in chch.thanx for intelligent feedback,brent
 
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