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2017 Speedy S with arrow slipons and tune. Made 122hp on the dyno, down 2hp from my 2011 on the same dyno.

i have a power commander on order to do some tuning. I have geared it down to 17/45...

i thought it was fast until today. My wife has the new street triple RS. We were on the highway and decided to do a 6th gear roll on. I figured my geared down 1050, at 5000rpm would be in the meat of its torque curve at 75mph and just walk away from her 765.

it didn’t. She walked away from me. Slowly, but the little street triple 765 had a faster 6th gear roll on than a regeared 1050...

grantd my bike weighs 70lbs more and I weigh 110lbs more than her, but it was disheartening. Would be like buying a Mustang 5.0 V8 and your buddy with the v6 model beats you in a drag race...

anyway, as I am getting it tuned anyway, and other mods to consider? Velocity stacks? Air filter? I can’t remove the CAT on the 16+ models without cutting and welding...

just looking for ideas...

i am am sure the tuning will help, as the AFR in the midrange is like 15 or so... way too lean and not good for power...

Also, anyone able to remove the cat from the newer models?
 

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2017 Speedy S with arrow slipons and tune. Made 122hp on the dyno, down 2hp from my 2011 on the same dyno.

grantd my bike weighs 70lbs more and I weigh 110lbs more than her, but it was disheartening.
I think you found the problem right here. Drop to 5th and you'd be gone. 5k RPM is where it's making good torque, but not HP, and as a bigger guy, with 75 mph wind resistance, you need a higher RPM so the engine is actually making more power and doing more work.

Also, Those numbers are effectively the same for a dyno, and as they were taken nowhere close to each other, aren't really comparable anyway.

The tune will net you some power, but there isn't a whole lot option wise for the newer models right now. Even the cat removal isn't going to net anything appreciable (1 or 2 whp maybe, new units are pretty efficient as it is). Older models had cam options, not applicable to this motor.

The street triple is a great bike, and honestly if you aren't happy with the triumph power, your best option is to sell it and buy another model like an SDR or S1kR, as you will likely be chasing that dragon forever. If you really want the s3, be happy with it and recognize triumph isn't interested in HP wars, the bike is plenty fast and fun!
 

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2017 Speedy S with arrow slipons and tune. Made 122hp on the dyno, down 2hp from my 2011 on the same dyno.

grantd my bike weighs 70lbs more and I weigh 110lbs more than her, but it was disheartening.
I think you found the problem right here. Drop to 5th and you'd be gone. 5k RPM is where it's making good torque, but not HP, and as a bigger guy, with 75 mph wind resistance, you need a higher RPM so the engine is actually making more power and doing more work.

Also, Those numbers are effectively the same for a dyno, and as they were taken nowhere close to each other, aren't really comparable anyway.

The tune will net you some power, but there isn't a whole lot option wise for the newer models right now. Even the cat removal isn't going to net anything appreciable (1 or 2 whp maybe, new units are pretty efficient as it is). Older models had cam options, not applicable to this motor.

The street triple is a great bike, and honestly if you aren't happy with the triumph power, your best option is to sell it and buy another model like an SDR or S1kR, as you will likely be chasing that dragon forever. If you really want the s3, be happy with it and recognize triumph isn't interested in HP wars, the bike is plenty fast and fun!
Good reply.
Dyno comparison is basically useless.
Helpful comparing the Arrow to stock on same day or different tunes.
Lot of weight difference to overcome and your not in the right gear for the situation.
Wasting your time and money looking for more power. Get a S1000R like he said.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well dropping a gear wouldn’t be fair for a 6th gear roll on test. Haha

But I get your point. It is what it is and I will just enjoy that for now. I just can’t believe that in the same gear, the 765 has more grunt.
 

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Not really a fair test though....same gear but not the same final ratio I presume. Put the bikes in the same final ratio and I'd be surprised if you got the same result.
 

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Switch bikes with your wife and try racing again. If she beats you again, maybe she's a better rider.
This is a no-win situation. If you get more power, and get faster, and beat her....who are you going to brag to? Guys will not be impressed. If you gloat to the wife....you lose (marriage 101). If you lose the race...well....you just lose. Again.

Now...if you just want more power jus' 'cause....well....that's just a motorcyclist thing that I can perfectly understand. Just don't race the Mrs as a test!
 

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Lol. It’s less about her beating me on a simple roll on test, and more about my spending a good chunk of money on what used to be the hooligan and bad boy naked, only to find out it’s more of a civilized old man who has settled down and eats dinner at 4pm before watching reruns of Matlock... haha
 

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On the track I will lap her in a 20 minute session, it isn’t about HER being faster so much as the little bike beating the literbike...

I feel like the Speed has lost its edge... it’s the old lion that used to run the pride, being pushed out by the younger male. If I had not bought the bike 2 months ago it probably wouldn’t bother me and I would just get something else...
 

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Slowly, but the little street triple 765 had a faster 6th gear roll on than a regeared 1050...
At 17/45 you've re-geared for low end, not high end.

grantd my bike weighs 70lbs more and I weigh 110lbs more than her, but it was disheartening. Would be like buying a Mustang 5.0 V8 and your buddy with the v6 model beats you in a drag race...
But you weren't drag racing. If you were, the results would have likely been very different.

My wife has a street, I've got a speed, and it sounds like the weight difference is similar. In general she's a better rider than I am so I'm used to not being faster than her regardless of the bike.

That said, I chose the speed because of it's low-end grunt, not it's top end. Pulling away from a stop there's no comparison between the two - I'm pulling from right off idle up to near red line. She has to rev her bike out and then bang through a few gears just to keep up by the time I'm getting into 2nd.

Since I spend very little time on the freeway in top gear I'm more concerned with how the bike feels from 0-75 than above that, and that's why the speed is more fun for me. I've ridden a lot of smaller bikes that have as much or more HP on paper, but for most of the riding I do they actually feel less powerful because they've got to rev out to make their power.

what used to be the hooligan and bad boy naked, only to find out it’s more of a civilized old man who has settled down and eats dinner at 4pm before watching reruns of Matlock... haha
It's always been a street hooligan, meant to loft the front wheel from stoplight to stoplight, not a race horse that'll take the trophy in a high speed track run.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
At 17/45 you've re-geared for low end, not high end.



But you weren't drag racing. If you were, the results would have likely been very different.

My wife has a street, I've got a speed, and it sounds like the weight difference is similar. In general she's a better rider than I am so I'm used to not being faster than her regardless of the bike.

That said, I chose the speed because of it's low-end grunt, not it's top end. Pulling away from a stop there's no comparison between the two - I'm pulling from right off idle up to near red line. She has to rev her bike out and then bang through a few gears just to keep up by the time I'm getting into 2nd.

Since I spend very little time on the freeway in top gear I'm more concerned with how the bike feels from 0-75 than above that, and that's why the speed is more fun for me. I've ridden a lot of smaller bikes that have as much or more HP on paper, but for most of the riding I do they actually feel less powerful because they've got to rev out to make their power.



It's always been a street hooligan, meant to loft the front wheel from stoplight to stoplight, not a race horse that'll take the trophy in a high speed track run.
With my gearing. It’s -1/+2 from stock which should give better acceleration across the rev range, from idle to redline, at the expense of top speed. Meaning, my top speed may have dropped to 142mph according to gearing commander, but I should get to that speed faster than I would with stock gearing. It’s quicker acceleration everywhere, not just the low end. Or is that not correct?

And yeah, I think that from a stop I would pull away easy, but once she gets above 10k on the tach and keeps it there as she goes through the gears, she will pull me back in.

I was not expecting the striple rs to be so fast. That motor is amazing.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The Daytona 675 bests my T595 Daytona. That's progress.
Yeah, but that’s a much older discontinued bike. My speed is a 2017. It boasts 104 new motor parts and more power, But actually makes less on the dyno than my 2011 model did.

Triumph claims 121hp at the wheel for the RS. But a few review sites have put stock 765’s on the dyno and seen 125hp at the wheel.

I think that Triumph under reported the 765 output so as not so hurt sales of their flagship Speed Triple, personally.

MCN did back to back dyno runs of a new speed and a new Street, and at the wheel, the street was only 2hp down on the speed...

If that’s the case, I bought the wrong bike!
 

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With my gearing. It’s -1/+2 from stock which should give better acceleration across the rev range, from idle to redline, at the expense of top speed. Meaning, my top speed may have dropped to 142mph according to gearing commander, but I should get to that speed faster than I would with stock gearing. It’s quicker acceleration everywhere, not just the low end. Or is that not correct?
The gearing lets the engine spin up a little easier to get to higher RPM sooner with less resistance. That makes a noticeable difference when you're starting from zero and the only resistance is in overcoming the mass of the bike & rider. Once you're at highway speeds the primary resistance is from wind and a difference of a few hundred rpm at a given speed won't make a noticeable difference in acceleration. It goes back to what djn876 said earlier:

Drop to 5th and you'd be gone. 5k RPM is where it's making good torque, but not HP, and as a bigger guy, with 75 mph wind resistance, you need a higher RPM so the engine is actually making more power and doing more work.
I think it's easy to underestimate the effect of wind resistance on a naked bike like this. On my Sprint (955 engine) I could cruise on the freeway at 100 by accident, and still accelerate hard at that point if I wanted to. On the speed it takes deliberate effort to push it over 100 and at that point the acceleration is much slower. Remember - wind resistance increases exponentially with speed. Add in more surface area - because you're a lot bigger than your wife - and suddenly your bike is having to do a lot more work than hers to increase it's speed. It might be interesting to switch bikes and repeat the test - I wouldn't be surprised if she still pulled away from you.

Because of wind resistance, regardless of what gearing commander says your top speed is I don't think you'll ever see it on one of these bikes. The fastest I've been able to get on the track with stock gearing is just over 120, tucked in as tight as possible to minimize wind resistance, and at that point the acceleration is so slow it would probably take another mile of runway to gain another 10mph. That's why re-gearing them for low end acceleration makes so much sense - you're really not giving up any attainable top speed. If you want good acceleration at high speed you need more than just more horsepower, you need a fairing.
 

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The gearing lets the engine spin up a little easier to get to higher RPM sooner with less resistance. That makes a noticeable difference when you're starting from zero and the only resistance is in overcoming the mass of the bike & rider. Once you're at highway speeds the primary resistance is from wind and a difference of a few hundred rpm at a given speed won't make a noticeable difference in acceleration. It goes back to what djn876 said earlier:



I think it's easy to underestimate the effect of wind resistance on a naked bike like this. On my Sprint (955 engine) I could cruise on the freeway at 100 by accident, and still accelerate hard at that point if I wanted to. On the speed it takes deliberate effort to push it over 100 and at that point the acceleration is much slower. Remember - wind resistance increases exponentially with speed. Add in more surface area - because you're a lot bigger than your wife - and suddenly your bike is having to do a lot more work than hers to increase it's speed. It might be interesting to switch bikes and repeat the test - I wouldn't be surprised if she still pulled away from you.

Because of wind resistance, regardless of what gearing commander says your top speed is I don't think you'll ever see it on one of these bikes. The fastest I've been able to get on the track with stock gearing is just over 120, tucked in as tight as possible to minimize wind resistance, and at that point the acceleration is so slow it would probably take another mile of runway to gain another 10mph. That's why re-gearing them for low end acceleration makes so much sense - you're really not giving up any attainable top speed. If you want good acceleration at high speed you need more than just more horsepower, you need a fairing.
So what do you suggest? 17/45 or keep the -1 on the front and go back to stock 43 on the rear?
 
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