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Discussion Starter #1
Please can I have some ideas? My Legend has lost it's spark. I'm restoring it and tried to start it after some extensive work in all departments. I did have it running before I stripped it so the ignition was working. Now there isn't a spark from all 3 plugs. All the switches have continuity. (Clutch, Neutral, side stand) and switch on and off. The coil sensor has the correct Ohms, is secure and has 0.8mm air gap. All 3 coils have the correct Ohms on the primary and secondary. The Plug leads have the correct resistance and all 3 plugs are new with the correct gap. I don't think there is an issue with the kill switch. The wiring seems to have continuity back to the Igniter plug. So, I'm currently suspecting the Igniter although it was working and I'd have thought that this would still be ok especially as they are expensive lol. Apart from substitution with new parts I'm at a loss right now. Any suggestions gratefully received.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was aware of the secret fuse that's not part of the fuse box and I had checked that. I'm going to assume that the Igniter is OK and check continuity and voltage again at the igniter socket. I haven't had the Kill switch apart so I'll open it up and give it a dose of contact cleaner. I'll re-clean all the connectors again too. From what I've read the components are pretty reliable and that seems the case from my tests, so I'm assuming it's somewhere in the loom and connectors as all the fuses are intact.
I'll start with a fresh set of eyes in the morning. Thanks again for you input.
 

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I found all the connector blocks wadded full of white grease, but that's stock grease so the factory believes that's best. I was trying to get most of it out, but not now. Those connector terminals will never tarnish
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I found all the connector blocks wadded full of white grease, but that's stock grease so the factory believes that's best. I was trying to get most of it out, but not now. Those connector terminals will never tarnish
I did wonder if the grease was factory fitted or if the previous owner had shares in a grease company. I have cleared it all out while checking the connections so once I've resolved my problem I'll pack them back up again. I'll probably use silicone grease as I have a bucket load of the stuff. Thanks for your input TRUSTY.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Good news is there are sparks flying out of the plugs. Only bad news is I can't be sure what connector was the culprit but I suspect it was the Ignitor. So, now I've got it running I need to find out how to set up the carbs which I've also rebuilt. Thanks for your input everyone. It always helps when you are not alone!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My joy was short lived! However, I have found the problem which I thought I'd share. I ran the engine up so that I could balance the carbs. I got the engine up to temperature and was about to get my vacuum gauges and the engine stopped! Plenty of fuel so I cranked it but nothing. I attached a spark plug, cranked it and no spark just like before.
I pulled the ignitor plug and re-cleaned it as that was what I'd suspected. Still nothing. Next I separated the Trigger Coil connector and checked the resistance. Big fat ZERO! However after a cup of tea I checked it again and had 630ohms. I reconnected the plug and low and behold the bike started. It ran for a few more minutes and stopped again. I check the coil resistance and ZERO again. After 10 mins I had a reading again and it started. I repeated this once more just to convince myself but It seems the coil is breaking down intermittently and the engine heat probably makes it more predictable. Just ordered a new coil so hopefully that's the end of my torment! (Until the next problem lol)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Had exactly the same with my Legend that had stood. Pick up Coils available from Squaredeals or Sprint Manufacturing as well as Triumph dealers.
Thanks, Andy. Have ordered mine from Squaredeals. Should be up and running next week!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Lordy....wish mine was as easy as this one was to diagnose.
Glad you got it figured and parts on the way! Enjoy!
Hi Pappy. I've been following your torment but unfortunately have nothing sensible to offer. I do hope my replacement coil does the trick but interestingly I had a 630ohm reading today but no spark. Right now I'm still blaming the coil so when the new one arrives we'll see. Meanwhile we can console each other lol
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Oh NO! Fitted the new pick up coil and no sparks. I did check the new coil and it reads 530 ohms. As I said to Pappy when the old coil was showing resistance it would start. If it stopped the coil showed Zero so it was unusual that this happened on my last test. Could I have messed up the ignitor with all this abrupt breakdown of the pick up coil?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yes, that's exactly what happens. When the coil gets hot things expand and the break opens up.
Hi WSC, please can you se my last comment. Have I messed up the Ignitor with all the messing around with the pick up coil?
 

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Hi WSC, please can you se my last comment. Have I messed up the Ignitor with all the messing around with the pick up coil?
Not likely. I'm guessing you're overlooking something simple. Do you have power to the ignition coils?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Not likely. I'm guessing you're overlooking something simple. Do you have power to the ignition coils?
Thanks for replying WSC. I checked there was continuity to the 3 coils from the Ignitor socket/plug (POS & NEG). I disconnected the battery earth terminal, turned on the ignition and then put a meter from the Ignitor socket wire to the battery earth and had 12.6v. I then checked each coil the same way and got the same reading which I'd expect from the continuity check. I can measure that there is 530ohms over the wires coming from the pick up coil. So, I know that the Ignitor is getting a supply from the ignition switch and a reading from the pick up coil. So, I believe I can check the Neutral switch is working although I have held the clutch in on test. Would I be right in assuming that if all the wires to the Ignitor are as they should be it leaves the ignitor as the remaining problem or isn't it that simple? At least it's all dead at the moment which should help for diagnosis? (I'm and engineer so not very good with Amps and Volts)
 
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