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First, you've got a really beautiful bike !
Hello Guys ! Please dont hate on me, this thread just came to my eyes and its a lively one so decided to ask here.
I always wanted a bike and thats my first one. Legend TT
So
1 there is a leak of oil from behind the front sprocket. I changed oil seal once, didnt help, than i blamed the sleeve and took it of, (definetelly scratched it all because it sits on the shaft tight and theres no rubber O ring) than ordered new from a dealer that wouldnt fit, machinned it, fitted it, changed seal over it, still leaks, less but still does. I wonder what might be another reason ? Can the shaft be off balanced or somthing ?
2 I know my bike was probably sitting some time in the garage, so it needs carb cleaning. It would get hot after 30 mins of riding and then stall, and wont run until cools down. But before that it would loose its power and run on one cilinder or somthing, I would give it more throttle and it would unstuck and be ok for another 5 minutes and then not respond on the throttle, and stall completely. My guess it overheats, i suspect the fan isnt starting, need to check this one. (I didnt change the coolant yet).
Thank you !
 

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how do you know its too hot? temp light? you can test fan by putting a direct wire from battery to pos wire on fan to see if it comes on, the switch can be tested by bridging the terminals i believe, it could be coils breaking down or the crank sensor on lower right side of engine, these breakdown when hot then work when cooled down, also if carbs are gummed it could be running lean due to blocked jets or lack of flow from tank when hot and fuel is vaporising, or tank vent blocked etc, where in canada are you?
 

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Discussion Starter #185 (Edited)
Or just buy the thumb screw type
No way! Where is the joy of tinkering in that? :)
After half year desperate search for a thermostat substitute ordered the real deal :)
(Bought a seized Honda VF400F complete with title last week for the same money...)
IMG_20200417_161328.jpg
That RE tail light :ROFLMAO: ... there is a better quality of this type for the same money on e-bay.
Anyway, it does the job, bright and big with reflecting area.
IMG_20200418_105018.jpg
The radiator cap is a direct substitute!
IMG_20200417_161450.jpg
Now I really need the fine copper mesh filter in the tank and I can ride it.
Turned a new petcock plug from teflon... i will post it if I could try it working. Stay tuned! :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #186
1 there is a leak of oil from behind the front sprocket. I changed oil seal once, didnt help, than i blamed the sleeve and took it of, (definetelly scratched it all because it sits on the shaft tight and theres no rubber O ring) than ordered new from a dealer that wouldnt fit, machinned it, fitted it, changed seal over it, still leaks, less but still does. I wonder what might be another reason ? Can the shaft be off balanced or somthing ?
2 I know my bike was probably sitting some time in the garage, so it needs carb cleaning. It would get hot after 30 mins of riding and then stall, and wont run until cools down. But before that it would loose its power and run on one cilinder or somthing, I would give it more throttle and it would unstuck and be ok for another 5 minutes and then not respond on the throttle, and stall completely. My guess it overheats, i suspect the fan isnt starting, need to check this one. (I didnt change the coolant yet).
1 Found your other post 8 months ago. Still leaking? There must be something you can put between the seal and sleeve. Hylomar maybe?
2 Check coolant level first (in reservoire tank and at the radiator cap). If its ok, move on the carbs. If not, check fan switch, fan working, temperature light switch and thermostat (or just remove the thermostat)! I had a blown head gasket because all of these failed. I see you got the manual. There are testing methods for these parts.
At the carbs most important are the carb to head boots. Check for vacuum leak (put this in youtube for a how to video). If its ok, check the air filter (mine was in pieces). If its ok start cleaning the carbs, also clean all fuel filters.
 

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1 Found your other post 8 months ago. Still leaking? There must be something you can put between the seal and sleeve. Hylomar maybe?
2 Check coolant level first (in reservoire tank and at the radiator cap). If its ok, move on the carbs. If not, check fan switch, fan working, temperature light switch and thermostat (or just remove the thermostat)! I had a blown head gasket because all of these failed. I see you got the manual. There are testing methods for these parts.
At the carbs most important are the carb to head boots. Check for vacuum leak (put this in youtube for a how to video). If its ok, check the air filter (mine was in pieces). If its ok start cleaning the carbs, also clean all fuel filters.
Thank you ! Carbs will need to be synchronized after cleaning :(
and I have to get a carb kit with all the things that have to be renewed after cleaning.
Thats a bit of a rocket sience to me . . . All I ever wanted to jump on it and ride :DDD I'll follow all of your sugested steps ! Don't want to sell it !
 

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how do you know its too hot? temp light? you can test fan by putting a direct wire from battery to pos wire on fan to see if it comes on, the switch can be tested by bridging the terminals i believe, it could be coils breaking down or the crank sensor on lower right side of engine, these breakdown when hot then work when cooled down, also if carbs are gummed it could be running lean due to blocked jets or lack of flow from tank when hot and fuel is vaporising, or tank vent blocked etc, where in canada are you?
Thank yoy ! Ontario, North York
 

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Discussion Starter #189
Ok, i was not adding tabs to the mixture screws, cant get to them anyway. Made one more slot however.
IMG_20200424_190301.jpg
After fiddling with the screws i was surprised that the middle screw was only one and half turn out.
Set all of them to two and three quarter, now runs fine.
Finally, i could make a ride before sunset. Response is very good, temperature is finally constant at 90C (Chinese gauge) with the new thermostat. i am a villain since we cant go out, only for work etc. :ROFLMAO:
723263
 

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Discussion Starter #190
Lockdown is over in our country (Hungary). Or at least we can ride without restrictions. Had not much opportunity though, only some 50 miles added, mostly at night after the kids went to sleep. Topped the tank the first time. It is to heavy for those rubber blocks to hold it. Hearing a ding at every big road hump. I will have to replace that, it seems the one on the right side is not the factory original.
Made a water-based carburetor synchronizer based on ideas found in youtube videos. First, it sucked the water in the carbs 🤪 Then i was adding flow restrictors to the lines which made the pressure difference build-up much slower allowing plenty of time to adjust the screws. When i built the carbs i set the valves to the same opening by eye so there was only a small difference between the three. Number 3 had to be adjusted a bit. This makes me think that all three cylinders producing about the same vacuum.
Those vacuum port rubbers are wobbling, they are too hard and old. Rev changes if i touch slightly some of them. They also need to be replaced.
Idle mixture still needs fine-tuning. Still can't access the middle and left mixture screws. The restriction in the pods may be to much for the current setting since rev drops if the choke is used at the start.
I left the plastic grill at my parents before the virus, got it back now. This Chinese radiator has those mounting tabs a bit more to the back so i need to make a spacer ring (maybe out of rubber) between the plastic grill and the tabs.
Rev counter still needs some care. I was thinking to buy a printer capable of printing on DVD-s and reprint the dial plastic. The kids need a printer for homework anyway 🙂
724921
 

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Ok, wrench on the way to me, i will get it in the afternoon.
Meanwhile, i was looking for alternative sources for head gasket. It is around 80 pounds from the UK. Desperately, contacted the hungarian dealer, he was also surprised how expensive it is for this model. Price is well over 100 pounds.
So called one of the manufactures making head gaskets based on samples. Initial price is around 20 pounds.
Anyone has experience with non Tutuapp 9Apps ShowBox OEM Triumph head gaskets? Are they any good? Any known alternative source with quality confirmation?
Thank You!
Second, the head bolts can be reused! Any more confirmation on this would be great. Dont want to break the bolts or the threads.
 

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Discussion Starter #194
Second, the head bolts can be reused! Any more confirmation on this would be great. Dont want to break the bolts or the threads.
They can be reused if they are good. See attached picture from the manual. I saw some marks on two bolts, replaced only these two.
725274

725273
 

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Discussion Starter #195
Happy 20 miles to work today :p
Radiator grill plastic is mounted with some steel and rubber washers (the Chinese radiator has the mounting tabs a bit to the back compared to the original). Made tank mount cushions by pouring hot glue in a 19x30mm form.
725648
 

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Discussion Starter #196
Added some 200 miles since the rebuild. Had a short talk with a local mechanic. He told me that 0.1 difference in valve clearance is to much and i should take care of that. So, ordered a more accurate feeler gauge allowing the measurement with 0.01mm increments. Hard to resist but will not ride until the clearances are set. Will do an oil change as well, cheap oil inside currently to flush the engine after the repair.
There is a leak at the right muffler joint.
725747
725749
 

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Discussion Starter #197
Here are 3 tables of the valve clearances at 0km after the repair, 100km after repair and 200miles after repair. Its in Hungarian but you surely get it :giggle: Now the accurate feeler gauge shows that those four exhaust clearances are also on the smaller side. The mechanic said its fine now, no need to replace the shims. I will change the oil next week.
725984
 

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Too much is better than too little (tight).

No need to get so precise. Get a feeler gauge that matches the minimum and another that matches the maximum. The min should go in and the max should not. If you get that then look no further.
 

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Discussion Starter #199
Made the knobs for the adjustment screws :) Hand turned piece is soldered to the screw with a 3mm joint.
Cut some random slots in the knob with Dremel.
Done all three :)
IMG_20200529_190733.jpg IMG_20200529_191933.jpg IMG_20200529_192414.jpg IMG_20200529_184829.jpg
 
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