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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,
I am new here, and new to owning a 2000 triumph legend.
I have been lurking the forum looking for tips and help with most everything. The bike currently will not stay running unless the choke is about half way and when I throttle it up it sputters and and bogs down and stalls if I shut the choke off.
I have a feeling its something with the fuel or bad spark plugs.
please someone correct me if I am way off.
Also I can't seem to find this step by step photo thing for spark plug removal for triples that I read about in a post.

Thanks for any and all help in advance

Cheers
 

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try starting it with the idle advance knob turned clockwise a couple turns. Its on the left side carb and it is a black knob. I have to use that to start my bike sometimes, and when it warms up the idle will jump way up and then you just turn the knob counterclockwise until the RPM's are around 1200
 

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The bike currently will not stay running unless the choke is about half way and when I throttle it up it sputters and and bogs down and stalls if I shut the choke off.
I have a feeling its something with the fuel or bad spark plugs.
These type carbs have a "fuel enrichment system" that is different from the traditional butterfly choke plate we all grew up with here in the US. Whereas a "choke" closes off the incoming air to the carb throat to create a rich mixture, the "fuel enrichment system" is a rather large auxillary fuel circuit drawn straight from the float bowl. Both sorta do the same thing but in entirely different ways yet both are commonly referred to as a "choke".

With your bike only running with the 'choke' on, it is being fueled only by the auxillary fuel circuit which implies that you are getting little to no fuel from your idle circuit. Most often this is the common problem of a clogged pilot jet that supplies your entire idle circuit. Falling with any advance of the throttle may also indicates there is insuffecient fuel supply to the transitional idle bleeds behind the primary/initial idle bleed.

303 has a point about the idle setting in that the throttle plate must be advanced enough to expose the first of the idle bleed holes. However, from my experience, giving the idle speed adjusting knob 'a couple of turns clockwise' :eek: would be just way too much... but I get his point. Perhaps too much to even start and if so, idle way out of control. As some sort of a reference, a cold summer start on mine without any 'choke' is nothing but a 1/4 turn clockwise to get it to light up with a 1,500rpm cold idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks for the help guys!

So I got the bike to start and idle by turning the advance knob a few times clockwise.

still when I throttle, it bogs down and stalls.
so that tells me its clogged jets?
 

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how long do you let it warm up for? If i were to start my bike when its cold and give it throttle it will die as well. After mine is warmed up, the idle will settle down to around 1200-1500 rpms, and runs great. Let it warm up for a few minutes and then try some throttle.

SO again, when i have cold start issues, here's what i do (learned this trick from a member here)

advance the idle, maybe 1-2 turns clockwise
after the bike starts to warm up the idle will jump WAY up, 2000-3000 rpms.
turn the knob counter-clockwise until the rpms are at the 12-1500 range.
give it slight throttle at first and let the rpms climb, then test it with mid throttle and see if its still stuttering.
If the idle is good, take it for a spin and let the fuel work its way through the carbs.

My bike will be good after about a city blocks worth of riding. I'm sure my carbs are a bit dirty, otherwise i woldn't have to do this. It doesn't bother me though, so this method works for now.
 

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maybe run some seafoam through it. It'll help clean SOME of the gunk out of the carbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
ok so the bike starts and idles ok.
I turned back the adjustment knob after the bike was idleing ok and its sits right around 1200 rpms

it seemed to throttle smooth while the bike was in neutral. I took it up the street and it would bog down starting out and shifting and acceleration was rough and jumpy.
it also stalled twice.
any ideas?
I did let it warm up for a good 5 min or so.
I did also put stp gas treatment in it the other days as well.
 

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Balance, Balance, Balance

This was what I was told, when I reported the same issues on this forum and it was the problem. I spent $25.00 on a dual synch gauge setup and synced the carbs. All of my idle, and hesitation issues stopped and it runs great! Maybe this will solve your problems too. If not then maybe you need to remove and clean carbs, check for air leaks with airbox to carb to engine rubbers. These bikes are very sensitive to all of the above air and fuel issues. Hope you solve it soon, so you can enjoy riding.
 

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I have a 99 legend and if your bike is stumbling at low rpms it might be a good idea to check your coils. My bike would stumble till I hit about 4k on the tach. Turned out to be a bad coil on number 2 cylinder. Picked up a direct replacement coil from nology and it fixed the problem. 75 bucks from newlevelpowersports.com , hope this helps.

Sent from my LGL55C using Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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How long was the bike sitting before you bought it? I would start with the carbs as mine were gunked up after the bike sat for a couple of years when I couldn't ride. I had the same symptoms and after I took off and carefully cleaned the carbs, it ran fine. STP probably won't do it though Seafoam has helped me immensely in the past. But even with Seafoam you may still need to take off and clean the carbs if it was sitting with old fuel in it for any length of time.
 

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Plus here comes the dumb question (on my part, please don't take it the wrong way) - did you drain out all the old fuel and start with fresh gas?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Plus here comes the dumb question (on my part, please don't take it the wrong way) - did you drain out all the old fuel and start with fresh gas?
sort of... the bike had been sitting for a year and half or a bit better.
I had a pal who is a HD mechanic clean the tank and carbs for me, and replace the alternator while the bike was in his care.

Since the bike has been in my garage I have replaced the starter and got the bike running poorely.
the gas I put in it was not the freshest can in the garage) but certainly not wicked old.

Should I dump the tank and start with a fresh full tank with a can of seafoam?

If it is a coil, how hard are those to replace?
 

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I would drain it and use fresh gas with Seafoam. In addition, nothing against HD mechanics but the jets on our carbs are probably smaller than he is used to dealing with. It took me three tries to completely clean my jets and get it running properly. Even if you hold the main jets up to light and see light throught it, there can still be a film of varnish clogging the jet (as I found out the hard way). I finally took out all the jets (main and pilot) and soaked them in Chemtool carb cleaner and cleaned them with some brass wire strands (held in a no. 5 vice grips) pulled from a cheap toothbrush style wire brush. I also sprayed all the carb passages to make sure they were clear.

As a result of the final cleaning, it finally ran properly. Now there can be other problems as others have pointed out but I would try to make sure that the carbs are completely clean before moving on to other things. Also make sure the float needles are clean, too much fuel can make a bike run crappy too. And set the float level which can also affect running.

Good luck!
 

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Oh and I forgot - there is a small filter (most call it the duckbill filter) inserted into the hard plastic fuel line where the rubber fuel line from the tank connects to the carbs. Pull off the fuel line, you'll see a small white or light brown lip (its the end of the filter), carefully pry this out and check it for clogging. If its clogged, just spray it with carb cleaner.
 

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+1 on the Seafoam plus the best detergent premium gas you can find (e.g. Mobil Premium). That and lots of patience. In my case I parked by the side of the road, threw it in neutral, and floored it. Eventually the bike sucked through whatever was blocking things and went back to running properly...for a while...until it sucked up the next bit of crud...at which point I broke down and had the carbs thoroughly cleaned.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
update

So I dropped the bike off off at a pals house. He is very knowlegable with triumphs. Got the bike running and carbs seem to be balanced. It still throttles rough and bogs down. Thinking 3rd cylinder is misfiring or something.
hopefully I have it all sussed out by this weekend.
 

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To my knowledge there isn't a rebuild kit available for these carbs. What parts are bad? Jets rarely wear out or go bad. I would suspect that your float needles could be damaged or corroded. But you can try Sudco (I ordered jets for a jetting change from them) or you can try http://motorcyclecarbs.com/ for parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'm finding that Legends don't really get much love in the way of aftermarket stuff. turns out you have to buy everything piece by piece.
Its a corroded float valve, so I got a new one and 3 gaskets for the bowls.
fingers crossed I will be riding by next weekend. just in time to freeze my toes off!
 
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