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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I did a search on here, but not much luck... T140v; almost brand new Amal concentrics. Right hand carb is beginning to leak after I've pushed the tickler, but not before. I can get the leak to stop by tapping the float bowl with a screwdriver handle. The tickler itself seems to "stick" a bit at the top, just slightly. I thought I might try filing a bit off the bottom of the tickler, but wanted to post here first.
Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks, Bill

EDIT: I did a better search on here, and have a few things to look at. Thanks.
 

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Are these one of the new Amal concentrics?
Don't shorten the tickler as it is just a simple stick that pushes down on the float. If the stick is too short you wont be able to push the float bowl down to allow an enriched mixture for start-ups. Besides there isn't much to file on save for the splayed end at the float. The tickler should move freely throughout it's travel and completely retract against the bottom of the carb body and away from the top of the float with the spring tension.
You might check if your tickler got damaged (bent) or crud got into the tickler bore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thirdbike - thanks. This IS one of the new concentrics. Everything is squeaky clean inside, and the tickler seems to have good travel and retract fully. Turning it in the body, it DOES seem like maybe it's a tiny bit bent (I have no idea how that may have happened), but if it retracts all the way I can't see how it being bent would matter.

The needle is new and looks great, but all I can think of now is to try an old needle that I have laying around.
 

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I *just* dealt with this a couple of days ago on a bike with new float bowls, floats, float needles, etc ... in the end, I found that the float itself was sticking against the casting of the float bowl. The float plastic molding flash was a little proud of the float itself and the bowl casting was a little sloppy. I used a small Swedish file to take a little 'meat' off of the float bowl and CAREFULLY!! trimmed the edges of the float 'tongue' with an X-Acto knife ...

I'd bet you have the same issue ...
 

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As T100RC says, I is almost certainly the float itself sticking against the body side. It only needs the slightest touching to stop the float working properly. This causes the float valve not to seat and petrol to leak past the valve and out of the tickler. Classic symptoms. T100RC has right solution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thank you both very much. That's something I hadn't considered. I'll take a look today. Thanks again.


I'd like to thank everyone who responded for their help. It turns out that the float level in the new Amal was much too high. I took a float bowl from an old carb, installed it, and no more leaks! It seems that when the bowl is upside down, the float should be just level with the rim of the bowl. I've yet to fire it up, but so far so good!
 

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Thank you both very much. That's something I hadn't considered. I'll take a look today. Thanks again.


I'd like to thank everyone who responded for their help. It turns out that the float level in the new Amal was much too high. I took a float bowl from an old carb, installed it, and no more leaks! It seems that when the bowl is upside down, the float should be just level with the rim of the bowl. I've yet to fire it up, but so far so good!
my advice, and you probably aren't going to like it, replace those amals with mikunis and call it a day. my bike never ran better. no fouled plugs, a proper choke, no leaking, better throttle response, and easier to balance.

amals = frustration, in my experience.
 

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Personally I think Amals get a bad wrap for no reason. I have repairing and tuning carbs for more years than I can count. I don't find amal carbs any more trouble than other makes of carbs. Problem is usually owners don't anything about carbs to start with no matter what make they are, and they try to fiddle with them without really knowing what they are doing in the first place and foul them up. Amals aren't perfect, but few things every really are. Amals can be made to run and work just fine without a lot of effort, other than the slides wearing the bores (which can be fixed) they work just fine when setup properly.

Just my opinion,

Rob
 
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