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Discussion Starter #1
It seems my 2.5 yr old battery is not much holding a charge. The BatteryTender says its fully charged but won't hardly turn the mill (granted it's cold here in Iowa - but jus' sayin'). It'll crank ... vvvvveeeerrrryyyy sloooooooooooowly....not enough to catch it and ignite the mill.

To the point - need a new battery. Did some web surfin' and found several gel styles, many made from China...a coupla ones from the USA Homeland.

Most ar around $50.00 - $70.00 delivered.

What's everybody else using..?

notes : 2006 Sprint ST/ABS

TIA
 

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I picked up one of these:-
http://www.eastpenn-deka.com/default.aspx?pageid=510

From memory the ETX 12 fits the '05+ Sprints (not sure about earlier models)

Very happy with it's performance... I usually only get to ride weekends and i don't have a tender... so the bike sits for 5days or more between rides and it starts first time... even through winter...

Hope this helps!

Cheers, G
 

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I stuck with Yuasa for the last few batteries I've bought for bikes, largely on the advice on my local bike shop bloke, who hasn't led me astray yet. (Brian Conners Motorcycles at Brookvale for anyone in Sydney, Aust.)

I believe that batteries are a product that you get what you pay for and you're better off getting a decent one rather than one that may well leave you stranded.
 

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HB,

Three things: 1) Make sure the batttery connections are tight. 2) The battery is awful young, unless you've completely discharged it once or twice. 3) Most important, how cold is it in the garage? You say it cranks, but slowly. That indicates you have an 'intact' battery, but no grunt. A cold battery will do that. A battery with a bad cell will show the right voltage, but will have no power at all.

Saying that, if you need to buy new, I had very good luck with a battery I bought from batteryweb.com several years ago.

However, buying a Yuasa or Interstate from a local shop, while costing more, gives you something called 'customer service.' If nothing else, you have a storefront, and a physical person to kick in the jimmy if you have problems.

pr
 

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hANNAbONE,

I remembered some talk of batteries some time ago, and thought that I'd provide you with the links. So here you go...

Link to the page:

http://www.triumphrat.net/sprint-forum/76282-bike-wouldn-t-start.html

Quote from that same page (below):

If you want to do an OnD dirty load test (sometimes called a drop test):
a) Charge your battery.
b) Select the 0-20vdc scale on your VOM.
c) Turn the ignition switch on with high beam selected, operate the starter and watch the VOM. The voltage will drop, but should not go below 9.5vdc. If it does, the battery is at end of its service life.

And this is the quick and dirty OnD open circuit voltage test:
a)Turn on high beams for ten seconds, turn it off and wait two minutes.
b) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
c) Take a voltage reading with your VOM. You should get a reading of 13vdc or a bit over. note: a normal battery will read 12vdc until almost exhausted. A good battery gives the one volt that keeps everything working.)
d) If <13vdc, try recharging and repeat test.
e) If no joy, replace battery.

While I'm at it, I may as well include how I do a charging voltage test:
a) VOM set to 0-20vdc, connected to battery.
b) Start engine and rev it up to about 3K and quickly read the VOM. It should be between 13.5vdc and 15.0vdc. If you have daytime running lights, it will be on the low side but should not be below 13.5. Last time I checked mine, it was 14.6vdc.
Note:
If it is over 15vdc, the reg/rec is probably bad and you have been blowing headlights.
If voltage does not reach min, yet rises above 12vdc, it could mean:
  • battery cannot hold a charge.
  • something in the electrical system draws more current than the alt can supply.
  • charging sys fault.
If the voltage does not rise above the batt voltage, it could mean:
  • Charge sys fault caused by broken or disconnected wiring between the alt and reg/rec, or batt.
  • Fauly reg/rec or batt.
  • Loose/corroded batt terminal screws.
  • Batt at or near end of service life.
Unless you are into pain, and enjoy the pungent aroma of burning flesh, remove rings and watches before working on a DC system. Belly button piercings are ok as long as you keep your shirt on.
And, as usual, any smoke emanating from your bike as a result of trusting my suggestions is not my fault.:D
 

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Well, I was going to recommend a SVR from evparts, but seeing they went from 70 bucks with shipping, to 124.99 w/o shipping forget that.
 

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Well I didn't sell them but I was the technical/training rep for the Pacific Region up here in Canada for East Penn batteries. I don't do that anymore but I still develop training and support tools in the automotive parts industry. I still keep up on the technology of East Penn and its competitors, I just get to do it now with less bias.

I recommend Deka Batteries because I know they work. I know the technology in them and the testing they go through before they hit the shelves. I also know that in the Canadian climate which ranges from -40c to +40C in temperatures that they have a tiny warranty rate and for the amount they sell that is the one true measure of how good a battery is. They are destined to fail its just how soon and how often.

I can say that in North America East Penn has the lowest warranty rate out there period with Exide being the highest.

Yuasa is a good middle of the road battery and use tested technology. They would be my second choice. I am not an Interstate fan, they have a mediocre battery with a fantastic marketing team. They are the "fram" of batteries to me.

If I can offer any advice about batteries for Sprints: AGM only! If you have to fill it, it isn't a true AGM. Make sure you get an AGM and if it is going to sit put it on a proper battery tender and not a trickle charger.
 
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