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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm educating myself to lace and true the wheels on my 67 T120 project. I've read that a negative offset of 1/64" is the number to go for on the front right side. Checking the old wheel before disassembly I have about that on both flange sides. measuring the new front rim, it is 1/32" wider than the original. Should I go for the the 1/64" offset on the right and not care about the obvious positive offset on the left? Or just center the rim between both flanges? Thanks, Gary
 

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Hi Prodigal Son,
The front wheel should run central in the forks.
I tend to mount the front wheel in the forks and measure off them for truing.
When the rim is central in the forks, it might not necessarily be central to the hub.
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The rear wheel offset is 3 inches from the centre of the rim to the centre of the drive sprocket.

Regards
Peg.
 
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You are well on your way to becoming an expert at meditation. It always takes me hours of spinning and staring at my wheels to get them trued. I'm a mbit anal and with a dial gauge can get them down to about 10 though but most folks say 20 though is perfect in both horizontal and vertical directions. I think it would be very quick if you do it every day but I always find I spend one evening fiddling and getting nowhere and then the next evening it sort of falls into place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Peg and BMF for the advice. Its good to hear from those that have been there. I'm going to catalog your advice. This is my first attempt at lacing and truing. Once I get the hubs blasted and painted I'll be at it. I hope I can avoid the valium. Back in "93" I went to the HD factory in York, Pa. for a tour. One stop was watching 3 ladies lacing wheels at their work bench. Without exaggeration, a hub, wheel and a handful of spokes was laced in about 10 minutes. And when they spun it and put it on a rack, I don't think it needed to be trued. amazing! Thanks
 

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Hi PS,
It looks harder than it is.
First get the rim the right way around so the spoke angles match the drillings in the hub.
Fit the spokes in the correct pattern.
True for concentric with the hub and round (egg shape wheels drive funny) first.
Do everything little by little, tightening squeezes in loosening lets it out, you often use these in combination, pulling one bit in while letting another bit out.
Once concentric and round, set the offset screwing in one sides spokes and letting out the other sides moves the rim across the hub.
Last take out the sideways wobble, let out a few spokes one side and tighten a few the other side to take out the wobble.
you can use pointers, or dial gauges at the end for perfection.

I like to have crayon or felt tip pen, hold the crayon against the fork (or wheel bench of you have one) spin the wheel and move the crayon in until it just touches the high spots, it then marks them. Adjust, wipe off and test again.
Sometimes it’s easier to remove dips than take out high spots.

allow 3-4 hours for your first , 1.5 to 2 hours for your second wheel.

10 minutes is amazing, I take 1 or 2 hours.
Sometimes due to the welding of the rim, some rims cannot achieve 100% perfect.

regards
Peg.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the replies. I've noticed after cleaning the bare front and rear hubs they have a punch mark here or there on the flanges. Were they there for factory lacing purposes?
 
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